Hello all- I have posted a couple questions on here before, and got some good advice, thank you. But now, its getting serious. I am rebuilding a 1966 4400, and plan to keep this thread active for the questions that are sure to come. Ive put on a new carb, rebuilt the power steering cylinder, and just drove it home today. My first project is to rewire it. My question is how to get to the ignition switch? Remove steering wheel and fuel tank? Ive looked at it briefly, but dont see any obvious solutions.
- Thread starter Ted4400
- Start date
Most of the Fords of that series that I have worked on, you should be able to disconnect the battery ground, remove the ign. key, reach up
under the the cowling with you left hand, hold the switch, and remove the switch retaining nut on the outside of the cowling, there should be
enough room to work the switch out of it's mounting hole, and enough slack in the wires to drop it down.
under the the cowling with you left hand, hold the switch, and remove the switch retaining nut on the outside of the cowling, there should be
enough room to work the switch out of it's mounting hole, and enough slack in the wires to drop it down.
Sean in PA
Well-known Member
If it's still got the lower sheet metal below the dash you'll need to remove that to be able to reach up to the switch from below.
No! No bottom cover- and that was great advice. I rewired it this morning, except for the gauges, and everything works great. One question: how can I test the generator to see if its working?(quoted from post at 11:28:12 10/04/21) Do you mean there are still some out there with the lower cover in place???Forgot about them.
Sean in PA
Well-known Member
Measure the voltage across the battery when it is not running and again when it is. Not running should be around 12.5 volts. Running should be at least 13.5, better if it is up around 14 volts or a fraction above.
Ok- rewired and running great. Will work on the alternator next, but heres the immediate project: replacing hoses. Are there any tips/ tricks/ special tools? Every hose on the hoe will need replacing, and it looks like a lot of swearing and bloody knuckles. I thought about cutting an access hole in the deck, but Im afraid that might compromise the structural integrity of the hoe deck, since its so solidly welded. Anyone else fight this battle?
I have, temp in 20's, outside in the dirt, in the dark, with a flashlight in my mouth. Hopefully never again. Suggest removing backhoe from the tractor first, block and stabilize it well. Its not hard. Remove hoses from the outside of the valve body first, working to the inside. I have cheap open end wrenches I have cut off box ends to maneuver better after connections broken loose. I recommend replacing all at one time if they are old.
I was looking at my loader today. Ill be changing the fluid and filter soon, and found some kind of plug in the frame on the opposite side of the drain plug. It seems like rubber? Is this another drain for that side of the frame? Should I drill it out and install a threaded plug? Seems like a good idea to drain that side, too. Not really sure what Im looking at here
Ok- electrical question: I replaced the generator with a one-wire alternator. Do I still need the voltage regulator? I can't see why I would. I'm thinking about replacing the voltage regulator with a terminal block so I have multiple taps for key switch power and straight battery power for lights and gauges. Thoughts?
Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
Youll need to eliminate the voltage regulator to get the Delco alternator working properly
I use a terminal block I pick up from NAPA, after unplugging and removing the regulator I install the terminal block here the regulator use to be
I then cut the wires from the plug and splice on connectors to connect to the block
Ok, thanks Destroked. My alternator is working fine, I'm only connected to the B terminals on the regulator. I wasnt sure if I needed the voltage regulator to regulate the voltage from the alternator. Your term block is just what I'm going to do. Mine is simpler because I removed all old wiring and installed new. I cut out all the gauges and the dash, and I have no lights. I'm getting aftermarket gauges and maybe lights later. If I don't need the regulator, I'll just remove it.
In your pic, what's the relay for?
In your pic, what's the relay for?
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