Full refund voltage stabilizer

4eyes

Member
They gave me a full refund on the Ford voltage stabilizer. In the picture, you can see why it didn't work. 12 volts in 12 volts out.
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(quoted from post at 10:54:49 09/18/21) They gave me a full refund on the Ford voltage stabilizer. In the picture, you can see why it didn't work. 12 volts in 12 volts out.
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ho is "they"?
 

I am working on a Ford truck now in the pix it has a resistor on the power feed side to the regulator (OEM) I never noticed that. I wonder if a tractor has one also.

I will have to work on the pix it won't pull up...
 

//4eyes
Who sold you that crap? One thing if a part is of low quality, but this is intentially made to scam the customer.
 
Not the same concept. The resistor wire lowers the voltage x percent of the source voltage, while the voltage stabilizer is supposed to keep
the average voltage constant regardless of the source voltage.
 
Yesterdays Tractor company. They probably got taken by whoever they bought it from.

This post was edited by 4eyes on 09/19/2021 at 08:10 am.
 
(quoted from post at 15:38:05 09/18/21)
Jessie what's your take on this.


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aybe as sotxbill says, but I can't attest to points in that diagram. Have not seen that system before. What make & year model?
 

when the points are close, the current flow through the heater wrapped around a bi-metalic spring... as it heats up, the bi-metallic expands at differnent rates, and starts to bend and thus opens the points by curling, which cuts off the current to the heater,,, which allows the bi-metallic metal to cool and return to its start position.. returning to its start position, the contact is made again to allow voltage to flow... and process starts all over... Exactly... the same as in a turn signal or flasher module. Except this one runs quite a bit faster iirc... also slang term is a voltage chopper as called in the 60s when used in the fast mode...also known as a mechanical vibrator used for stepup transformers by turning DC into square wave dc... The coils in the gauges (inductors) smooth the voltage back out to an average voltage... so if the chopper has a duty cycle of 50%on 50% off, and its fast enough.. you get an average of 6 volts minus vr drop due to current flow... A good rms meter will probably be more accurate. The schematic shows the fix heat coil to ground,, like a 3 prong flasher, meaning that the rate of operation does not change with load, where a 2 prong flasher has the heat strip in series with the load or light bulbs... this means a two prong flasher will flash correctly with there are exactly two bulbs in the circuit, and if one burns out it will change the timing of the flash rates.
 

I am working on the fuel gauge I got it covered I never seen one that had a resistor wire feeding it. Just wondering if a tractor has a resister wire feeding the VR I have never paid a tractor much attention as the diagrams shuck.

Its a 1983 f150 If I have to remove the cluster I will look it over for the ell of it... Its not my problem I have sender issues are the gauge.

I think I told him in another post auto parts stores can get them tho they are somewhat junk... OEM's used from other ford vehicles are the way to go they work smooth as a baby's arse... If I were to go shopping I would ask for one to fit a 65 Ford Galaxy... They are not cheap BTDT...
 
(quoted from post at 19:27:59 09/19/21)
when the points are close, the current flow through the heater wrapped around a bi-metalic spring... as it heats up, the bi-metallic expands at differnent rates, and starts to bend and thus opens the points by curling, which cuts off the current to the heater,,, which allows the bi-metallic metal to cool and return to its start position.. returning to its start position, the contact is made again to allow voltage to flow... and process starts all over... Exactly... the same as in a turn signal or flasher module. Except this one runs quite a bit faster iirc... also slang term is a voltage chopper as called in the 60s when used in the fast mode...also known as a mechanical vibrator used for stepup transformers by turning DC into square wave dc... The coils in the gauges (inductors) smooth the voltage back out to an average voltage... so if the chopper has a duty cycle of 50%on 50% off, and its fast enough.. you get an average of 6 volts minus vr drop due to current flow... A good rms meter will probably be more accurate. The schematic shows the fix heat coil to ground,, like a 3 prong flasher, meaning that the rate of operation does not change with load, where a 2 prong flasher has the heat strip in series with the load or light bulbs... this means a two prong flasher will flash correctly with there are exactly two bulbs in the circuit, and if one burns out it will change the timing of the flash rates.
obo & I are very well aware of what an ICVR is......the discussion was about the series resistor being unusual and for myself, the crappy drawing of ICVR not looking normal.
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(quoted from post at 08:08:29 09/19/21) Yesterdays Tractor company. They probably got taken by whoever they bought it from.

This post was edited by 4eyes on 09/19/2021 at 08:10 am.

They sold me a spedo cable that ripped itself in half after 2 hours in a proofmeter they sold me. A second cable from another vendor also ripped itself in half after about 30 seconds in that new proofmeter.

so this is no surprise to me.
 
The newer replacement gauges use moving coil gauges instead of bimetal thermal gauges. When they made these they included an ersatz/ dummy stabilizer so that it has the external appearance of the original.

How do I know? I measured the ohms and output of the stabilizer on my new gauge cluster and it made no sense. I took it apart and it was the same as the one you pictured. I was nothing but a wire bridge. Some of the replacement stabilizers are of this type and I don't know where you can buy real original type stabilizer to fit an original old style gauge cluster as many are beyond repair or broken. PS I also looked at my individual gauges and they are moving coil made to run on 12 volts.

I think an LM317 three terminal voltage regulator can be made to put the same equivalent output of the original stabilizer. A 7805 or cross referenced unit might do, but both max out at one amp. There is a larger one that will provide 3 amps, but all of these need an aluminum heat sink.

We have gone through this ritual before, but it get buried in archived posts.

...
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I forgot to add that Ford used this same method on their cars and trucks, but later switched to moving coil gauges. I don't know when, but you can tell these by the speed the gauge moves when you turn on the ignition. If a gauge needle rapidly moves to where it should be it is most likely a moving coil unless it is dampened with a resistor and capacitor. If it takes a 2-5 seconds to register it is more likely a bimetal thermal gauge.

Some particular individual gauges may still use the bimetal needle for one reason or another and could be mixed in a large dash instrument display.

My 1973 Toyota corolla as well as other makes used bimetalic gauges.
 
I checked on the links that Hacke gave and that is exactly what I was talking about. The can/stabilizer Moss motors sells is nothing but a packaged 10 volt 3 terminal regulator while the other link is the regulator itself. I don't know if the Ford uses 10 volt output which is why I provided other fixed regulators or variable regulators like the LM317.

Ford used what they called a slosh module to keep the fuel gauge steady on Mustangs and SUVs? when there was tight cornering, but it looks overly complicated and is expensive as are the orginal style mechanical chopper type voltage stabilizers. Ouch!!
 
Judging by a previous thread by 4eyes, this thread is about a voltage stabilizer for a Ford 3000 (This particular URL is against the forum rules, so you have to copy and paste):
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1521261&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Trucks, Mustangs and 5 V aside, in the attached picture there is information from Ford about the output voltage from the voltage stabilizer's that the 1000-series tractors (1965 - 74) were equipped with: [b:18338b9156]10 V[/b:18338b9156].

I was ready to make my own voltage regulator setup, since the gauges were unreliable and the heat coil gadget seemed to be a potential culprit. I planned to make one adjustable for each gauge, because senders and wiring are also individuals and if there was a need for replacements, you could easily adjust the voltage with a trim potentiometer on the backside of the cluster.

After renewing the wiring and cleaning contacts, the old setup worked fine. So I never made a solid state replacement.

I never got that far that I measured the current draw for the gauges. That is important when you choose a regulator. I think an adjustable regulator is the best choice. Apart from the output current you should look for built-in features like temperature range, protection against short circuit and reversed polarity, for instance. These gadgets are sensitive creatures and poking around in the wiring happens.

A quick search gave this:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/microchip-technology/MIC29302WT/771593
but there is an ocean of good alternatives.


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This post was edited by Hacke on 09/23/2021 at 07:20 am.
 
sorry, referring to 4eyes and the thread. and the question of the points in the diagram. Sorry again.
 

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