Ford 3000 engine cooling

Howard05

New User
Hi all I'm new to the forum with this being my first post. I have a Ford 3000 3cyl diesel. Trying to figure out if I have a engine cooling issue. With tractor idling around 1400rpms for about 10-15 minutes temp gauge goes into the red. Upper radiator hose is hot to the touch so I'm assuming thermostat is opening and lower hose is cool. I cracked open radiator cap with no signs of pressure and looked inside of radiator filler neck with no signs of water pump circulation. Checked coolant temp with digital thermometer reading 165F. No signs of weeping coolant from water pump. Belt is tight with no slipping. Radiator fins are clean with no debris build up. Wondering if temp gauge does not accurately represent temp sending unit? Is there anything else I should be looking for? Thanks
 
Check to see that your fan belt isn't glazed. My 3600 would run hot even with the fan belt tight until I replaces the belt.
 
Coolant at 165 degrees will still make the upper hose feel hot to the touch. Sounds like the cooling system is working properly, but the sender or gauge (or both) aren't doing their job properly.

The "no signs of water circulation" may just be from you looking while the thermostat was closed. Watch it for several minutes to see if it circulates part of the time.
 
Does your fuel gauge read high? If it does, you have a faulty voltage stabilizer behind the dash. Look for some recent posts by 4eyes
beginning on page 3 (currently).
 
(quoted from post at 09:23:30 09/14/21) Coolant at 165 degrees will still make the upper hose feel hot to the touch. Sounds like the cooling system is working properly, but the sender or gauge (or both) aren't doing their job properly.

The "no signs of water circulation" may just be from you looking while the thermostat was closed. Watch it for several minutes to see if it circulates part of the time.


I'll do that and see what happens.
 
I'm still not convinced that your gauge is accurate, based on the other things you are reporting. I'd suggest that you plumb in an
aftermarket gauge to verify what it's really doing, but I'm not aware of any sending units using 1/8 NPT pipe thread, which is what the temp
sensor is. What I like to do is drill a hole in the intake manifold for 3/8 NPT pipe and tap there for a coolant sensor.
 
(quoted from post at 23:12:52 09/14/21) I'm still not convinced that your gauge is accurate, based on the other things you are reporting. I'd suggest that you plumb in an
aftermarket gauge to verify what it's really doing, but I'm not aware of any sending units using 1/8 NPT pipe thread, which is what the temp
sensor is. What I like to do is drill a hole in the intake manifold for 3/8 NPT pipe and tap there for a coolant sensor.

I'm assuming your talking about one of those capillary mechanical gauge? Is that a one wire deal? I'll look into it. I did order a new temp sending unit just to see if temp gauge would read differently. I don't think tractor is running hot but I don't like what the temp gauge is saying either.
 
Yes, a mechanical gauge is what I was thinking about. That way you can stick the probe in a pot of boiling water and easily confirm its
accuracy.

If you do decide to go that route, order one with a 3/8 NPT adapter and tap the intake manifold between the rear two or front two mounting
bolts. If you look at later-model Fords, you'll see that the factory drilled and tapped a hole in the rear for a cab heater.
 
I agree on inaccurate temp gauge. One of my 3 cyl Fords has a 188F stat ( I deliberately chose due to winter operation usage) and
it opens just prior to the red area. Another has a 165 (approximately, forget the exact last digit) and it opens at about 40%
deflection.....midway in the white area. Running as you said isn't enough heat to open the stat even if you have the low temp stat, or
if it does open it closes right back once the pellet cools somewhat. Your non-contact infrared isn't lying to you....believe it! On not
seeing any movement in the radiator it's because you haven't put enough heat into the water to cause the stat to open, or stay open
for any length of time.
 
I cracked open radiator cap with no signs of pressure ...

Is the pressure cap working? Based on your measurements of coolant temperature, I'd say you don't
have an overheating problem but rather a faulty temperature sensor/gauge.
 

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