Thermostat talk again-Thanks Bern

4eyes

Member
I still would not rule out the voltage stabilizer. To check, unscrew the dash and pull it towards you, leaving all the wiring connected. Find a device on the back of the dash about the size of a circuit breaker, held on with two screws. It should have two terminals on it, and I *believe* they are labeled B and I. Take a test light and check for power at both terminals. The B should show steady power, and the I should flash the light on and off, AFTER the key has been on for a minute or so, since the device needs some time to warm up. If the I terminal remains solid, you have a faulty voltage stabilizer unit.

I have an I and an E and both stay on no blinks. So that is bad. Do you know where I can buy this voltage stabilizer unit? Thanks

I don't think the thermostat is opening. It is 96 outside, I bushhoged for around 40 minutes heavy grass. Took my wife's instant thermometer [hope she dont find out] it read 174. The thermostat is not opening. I found where I bought and replaced the last thermostat a stant 13358 180 degree stat. I guess I will take the thermostat out and flush the system and put a new 180 in and replace the faulty voltage stabilizer unit.
 
You have a 180 stat in it. 174 is within
the limit. Should not open till over 180.
If it was 174 it sounds like it is working!
40 minutes with a rotory if stat wasn't
working in this heat the radiator would
have spewed.
 
Sounds like your t-stat is working just fine. I dont know where to
suggest finding a voltage stabilizer. Even if NH supplied it I doubt Id
want to pay their price.
 
I would drop the stat in a pot of water on the stove and watch it open just before it boils... a canning thermometer will confirm the opening temp. When reinstalling make sure the bulb full of wax... is on the inside, or towards the engine, or it will operate correctly...
 

Google

ford gauge voltage regulator

ford instrument cluster voltage regulator

I think ford used it into the 90's on cars/trucks. Those aftermarket regulators are poor no where as smooth as a OEM...
 
Dont know the model but you can buy the instrument panel off ebay for $100 (cheap aftermarket cluster)...with all new parts.. I have found that they have trouble fitting flush on some tractors due to hitting the gas tank flange (seam) as some gas tanks have a extra long seam where they are welded together. YOu can grind the seam off a bit.. but your a risk of going to far... and having a tank leak,, or worse yet, becoming a huge fire ball. be aware there are two types of clusters one for early and one for late. dont order the wrong cluster. You can also occasionaly buy a used cluster off ebay, and take a chance of the voltage stabilizer being good. I have a box of old clusters if your near by.
 

I bought a voltage stabilizer from yesterdays tractor co along with some other things. I might try to take the old one apart. Thanks to everyone for the help.
 

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