4400 power steering cylinder

Ted4400

New User
Hi- new user rebuilding a 66 4400. Ive read some posts on difficulty removing the power steering cylinder, but havent seen my question answered. How do you remove the cylinder anchor pin with the valve actuating arm above it? I have a reprint of the service manual, but its not helpful.
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This post was edited by Ted4400 on 08/30/2021 at 06:55 pm.
 
Ted,
Welcome to the board.
If you mean that tapered pin #24 that has
the nut on the underside of the bolster
yeah they can be a real bear to get out.
8 lb sledge hammer and a big drift pin is
about all I can suggest.
Yeah, you will booger up the threads.
I've had a couple of those apart but both
times I had the axle out and bolster off
the tractor. With the bolster upside down I
could get a good swing at it with the
sledge. A couple of good hard slugs and it
came out. Then I was able to clean up the
threads with a 3 cornered file.

cvphoto99573.png
 
Thanks Ultradog. I've read that #24 is hard, but my question is- how can I get the actuating arm out of the way to get the pin up and out? I've seen posts on here about taking out the whole unit, but what does that entail? Removing inner and outer tie rod ends?
Right now, in trying to just remove the cylinder, the actuating arm is directly above the pin, and it doesn't seem like it's supposed to move. Very frustrating
 

Although the cylinder can be removed without removing the hydraulic pump drive shaft I've found it much easier with that shaft out of the way
Remove pin #19 that holds the actuating arm to the main steering arm, loosen the adjusting screws #15, this will allow room to move the actuating arm back away from the tapered pin holding the cylinder
I remove the nut from the tapered pin and then use a bottle jack and piece of rod to put upward pressure against the pin, doesn't take much just jack up on it until you fill pressure against the jack
Then set a large punch or piece of steel rod on top of the cylinder near the pin and smack it with a hammer, usually a couple of hits will jar the pin loose
 
(quoted from post at 12:44:59 08/31/21)
Although the cylinder can be removed without removing the hydraulic pump drive shaft I've found it much easier with that shaft out of the way
Remove pin #19 that holds the actuating arm to the main steering arm, loosen the adjusting screws #15, this will allow room to move the actuating arm back away from the tapered pin holding the cylinder
I remove the nut from the tapered pin and then use a bottle jack and piece of rod to put upward pressure against the pin, doesn't take much just jack up on it until you fill pressure against the jack
Then set a large punch or piece of steel rod on top of the cylinder near the pin and smack it with a hammer, usually a couple of hits will jar the pin loose
Thanks, 450- I'm going to try this first before I rip everything apart.
 
(quoted from post at 14:44:53 08/31/21)
(quoted from post at 12:44:59 08/31/21)
Although the cylinder can be removed without removing the hydraulic pump drive shaft I've found it much easier with that shaft out of the way
Remove pin #19 that holds the actuating arm to the main steering arm, loosen the adjusting screws #15, this will allow room to move the actuating arm back away from the tapered pin holding the cylinder
I remove the nut from the tapered pin and then use a bottle jack and piece of rod to put upward pressure against the pin, doesn't take much just jack up on it until you fill pressure against the jack
Then set a large punch or piece of steel rod on top of the cylinder near the pin and smack it with a hammer, usually a couple of hits will jar the pin loose
Thanks, 450- I'm going to try this first before I rip everything apart.
Thanks for the help, guys.
I got out 19, but instead of loosening adjusting screws, I just turned the steering wheel a little and it gave me the clearance to get to 24. I have no idea how to get a bottle jack under 24 without removing front axle, but theres enough room to drive a wedge underneath. Ill try this and post results.
 
(quoted from post at 20:29:46 09/02/21)
A wedge will work, been a while since I had the cylinder out of my 4500, was thinking we used a jack and rod on the 5000.
Ok- update for any future fighters with this miserable setup.
I did not remove the front axle. I did remove the left front wheel. With that out of the way I had room to use a long tire iron with a wedge-shaped end under pin#24 with the castle nut spun on halfway. A couple good hits with a 2-pound sledge and it popped right out.
Thanks again for the advice.
 

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