1 of each

'63 Ford 4 cylinder gasoline 4000, 6 volt battery: Group 1 6V?

'64 Ford 4 cylinder diesel 4000. Still has the battery in it that was in it when I bought it 14 years ago. It didn't and still doesn't fit the tray. It's wedged in tightly. What's the proper 12V battery for this tractor? All the owners manual lists is a 12V 135 amp hour battery. That doesn't tell me anything in terms of today's batteries.

I should add: CNH's parts website isn't any better. It only lists one battery for both tractors, and only by a number that doesn't mean anything to anyone other than a New Holland parts person.

Thanks!

This post was edited by Larry NCKS on 08/28/2021 at 05:50 am.

Diesels used 16TF witch is obsolete. I have a post 31 on my 801D, Spins real good.

Well! Dang! Nothing wrong with the 14 year old battery once the terminals were clean with new bolts . . . and the loose connection at the positive battery cable on the solenoid was tightened.

Wonder how long that misfit will actually last? Jun 07 scratched out. I bought the tractor in the fall of 07.

This post was edited by Larry NCKS on 08/29/2021 at 06:50 am.

That's a long time for a battery isn't it? Do you keep some kind of maintainer on it?

14 days or 14 years, means nothing. New units can be junk out the door of your local auto parts store or equivalent. The power source/battery is the heart of any machine. The thing that depletes battery life is the constant discharging then recharging. A battery must meet specific gravity levels to be effective. You can test with one of those $5 hydrometers they sell on the counter of your local parts outlet. It looks like a large hypodermic needle filled with Acetate and has 4 or 5 colored balls in it. I prefer a more technical method of testing the battery at my local starter shop on his special machine. As electrolyte depletes, the lead cells do too. Cold affects a battery as well. Ever get a dim flashlight while out hunting, camping, or fishing? Try putting the batteries under your armpit to warm up. The battery must sustain a full charge under load in order to be effective. Your charging system also needs to be wired correctly in order to function right. Whether 6V or 12V, if wired wrong it will never charge the battery. A big culprit with either setup is the failure to use a fan belt tensioning device. Without proper belt tension, the unit will never charge the battery. I advise everyone to invest in float charger device and NOT a trickle charger. The DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER is very good unit to keep your battery connected every time it sets idle. Many think that they can just connect their battery charger each time they need to run the tractor but many guys only use a trickle charger and if a battery is weak or dead, it won't charge effectively. The Battery Tender will automatically begin charging as the unit begins to drop, usually a week to 10 days is when you see it start. It will bring the battery up to a full charge so your tractor is ready to rock when you are. If you use your tractor occasionally, even more reason to get a float charger. It matters too what brand of battery you use. The cheap, bargain-house brands are the worst, and lucky to get 2 years life out them. Some of the best brands are: DEKA; INTERSTATE, DURACELL; and EXIDE. The 6V AG type battery is the GRP 1, and the 12V model is a GRP 25 or a GRP 35. It is also important to have and use the proper battery cables as well. 6V battery cables must be thick as your thumb. It has to do with current. A 12V battery uses the smaller diameter style like what you have on your car or truck. The important things are to have all the right parts, everything wired correctly, and the system tested and maintained properly.

Tim Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 16:31:16 08/28/21) That's a long time for a battery isn't it? Do you keep some kind of maintainer on it?

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Yes. It's a dang long time! No maintainer. It just is. Funny thing is that it has no name on it. It appears to be a group 65 battery and has a yellow case with a black top.