Hooking up freeman trip loader to Ford 860

Good afternoon,

I have a 1956 Ford 860 that I am looking to put a Freeman trip loader on. The seller of the loader says I can chain down the 3 point arms, plumb the loader to the fitting under the seat with a ball valve and it will work. I would like to be able to switch between loader and 3 point without having to mess with chains if possible. Is a selector valve what I need to accomplish this? I can find one on this web site.


It doesn't say it fits an 860 but lists every other 800 series. I think it may be a misprint. Any help would be appreciated.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-801_Selector-Valve_E0NND960AA.html

This post was edited by bobem12 on 08/24/2021 at 09:51 am.

You would be happier with what they call a
remote valve instead of that diverter
valve.
A remote valve allows you to use either the
3 point or the loader (though not both of
them simultaneously) without having to
push/pull that knob.
The exact same valve will fit all Ford
tractors under 70 hp from 1955 till about
1983 or so.
Photo shows a couple of remote valves.
There were several styles of them over the
years but all will bolt on and work on your
tractor.
There were several models in the 800
series.
840,850,860 depending on which transmission
and pto options it had.

PS, Welcome to the board.

PS,
Look for a used remote valve.
Expect to pay about $150-$250 for a used one.
New ones are WAY too expensive. Like $1000 or so.

(quoted from post at 11:33:27 08/24/21) PS,
Look for a used remote valve.
Expect to pay about $150-$250 for a used one.
New ones are WAY too expensive. Like $1000 or so.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the welcome and the reply. I am a little confused as to how that valve above would be different from the one in my original post, at least from an operational stand point with this loader.

The loader does not have any auxiliary hydraulics. I am reliant on my 3 point controls for operation.

I am a little confused as to how that valve above would be different from the one in my original post, at least from an operational stand point with this loader.

Click to expand...

The seller's recommendation of chaining down the 3 point arms probably means that the loader does not have its own control valve.

The selector valve that you originally linked to diverts the flow before it gets to the 3 point control valve, and then you would need a control valve on the loader to control it, and you will also need to provide another line that returns the fluid to the sump from that loader control valve. Also, when the selector valve is in the position for using the loader, the 3 point lift cannot be used at all.

The remote valves in Ultradog's picture can be used to control the loader lift arms directly, with no need for a separate loader control valve or a separate return line to the sump. Also, the loader and 3 point lift can be used alternately much easier with the remote valve than with a diverter valve as the 3 point will work whenever you are not actively moving the loader cylinders.

Do you know if the lift cylinders for the loader arms are single acting (power up and gravity down) or dual acting (power up and power down)? The answer to that will help determine which remote valve you might need if the loader does not have its own control valve.

Sean,
He states the PO chained down the lift
arms and the loader has no seperate valve.
So I presume the loader arms have no down
pressure.

I had a similar diverter valve on a 641
with a loader.
The way it worked was you pull the diverter
knob out then use your lift control handle
to raise or lower the loader. Push the knob
back in and the 3 point would work as
usual.
The reason I didn't like it was you were
always having to push or pull the knob to
operate one or the other function.
With a typical remote valve there was no
switching a knob back and forth.
Move the lift control handle and set your 3
point to its desired height.
Move the remote handle and set the loader
to its desired height.
It is less confusing. Lift handle for 3
point. Remote handle for loader.
Also, the usual drift down on the 3 point
made it a bit awkward.
Normally, in position control your 3 point
will auto correct to stay at the desired
height. But if the hydraulic pressure has
been diverted to the loader it can not not
auto correct. So it continues to drift down
till you push the knob and give it some
oil.

Ultradog,

I though that the diverter valve diverted the flow before the 3 point system, so you would need a separate control valve on the loader. And if you wanted to chain the 3 point arms down and use the 3 point handle you used the test port in the blocking plate.

(quoted from post at 11:51:43 08/25/21) Ultradog,

I though that the diverter valve diverted the flow before the 3 point system, so you would need a separate control valve on the loader. And if you wanted to chain the 3 point arms down and use the 3 point handle you used the test port in the blocking plate.

Click to expand...

My understanding is that the diverter valve I initially posted would allow me to pull out the handle, then use the 3 point controls to control the loader. Push in and then the 3 point would work. My theory is that way I could still have a box blade on the back to do work with and as a counterweight, while still operating loader. And still "easily" switch back to either controlling the loader or 3 point with the pull of that knob. Otherwise I have to chain down the 3 point and can't use an attachment if I want to use loader.

If you chain down the lift arms you could
add a valve to raise and lower the loader.
But your 3 point would be completely dead.
And why add a valve with all the extra
plumbing and hoses? You don't need it. With
the 3 point chained down your lift handle
now lifts/lowers the loader.
The diverter valve is much better than
chaining down the lift arms. But is still
rather doohicky as you must choose either
the loader or the 3 point. And as I
mentioned before, with the diverter valve
sending oil to the loader the 3 point will
not auto correct when it drifts down.
A remote valve is far superior to both
chaining down the lift arms and/or using a
diverter.
A remote valve allows complete use of BOTH
the loader and the 3 point. Pull/push the
remote handle to operate the loader.
Raise/lower the lift handle to operate the
3 point. No dead 3 point when you are using
the loader and no dead loader when using
the 3 point like you'd have with a
diverter.
Hopefully others here will weigh in and
explain this better than I am doing but I
am certain that for a simple loader with no
down pressure a remote valve is better than
a diverter valve. Way more convienient and
more functional.

Thank you for the explanation. Any idea where to source a remote valve like that? I've tried ebay with no luck.

Glad you came around. A remote is the way
to go. One caveat to all this. This whole
thread assumes you do not have down
pressure on your loader. But even if you do
have down pressure a remote valve will
work.
As to finding one Sometimes you just gotta
get lucky.
You can try searchtempest.com which lets
you search all the craigslists around the
country. Valve will easily fit in a $15?
flat rat box at the PO. Some people call
them a service valve so search for Ford
service valve or ford remote valve or even
ford hydraulic valve.
Maybe try running a free wanted ad in the
classifieds here on this site. (Click the
link below.) Facebook marketplace if you
are a member. Ebay.
Just an FYI - you can get a single handle
or double handle remote. Either will fit on
your tractor. Use one handle for your
loader and maybe someday buy or build a
hydraulic top link for the other handle. I
have one on my tractor. Sooo handy!
I built mine.
I would cry if I had to go back to a screw
type top link.
Oh, and don't be a stranger. Let us know
when you find one or need advice on one.






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