Ford 3000 Has not run in while

SaveMy50

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Neighbor offered use of his 3000, provided I get it running:
Fuel system, cleaned tank valve, it leaks, but installed new in line filter
Carb, Zenith, was redone years ago, don't plan on opening up yet
Distributor vacuum connector broken, stripped threads, do I really need or can I plug?
Starter solenoid appears to switch on fine
Starter, Wilson, needs rebuild or replace, gear doesn't move and has bad wear on gear end
Flywheel turns
Havent got it to turn over yet, next trip, but any insights appreciated
 
Depending how long its been since running, make sure tank
is clean. Also be aware there are multiple fuel filters: in tank,
in line, in fuel pump, in carb. Not saying you have to clean
them beforehand, just be aware theyre there.
 
Not sure there's filter in tank, as when I removed the tank valve directly underneath, i pulled a plastic bag (I know) out through that hole. The carb inlet is loose so I'll check that one.

As for pump, the neighbor said he installed one years ago, couldn't remember why. I planned to bypass and use the original gravity. Thoughts?

Starter has been ordered, shop advised cheaper to replace given internal wiring armature likely failed (works, doesn't work at times) and the gear tip was stripped.
 
(quoted from post at 19:40:59 08/09/21) Neighbor offered use of his 3000, provided I get it running:
Fuel system, cleaned tank valve, it leaks, but installed new in line filter
Carb, Zenith, was redone years ago, don't plan on opening up yet
Distributor vacuum connector broken, stripped threads, do I really need or can I plug?
Starter solenoid appears to switch on fine
Starter, Wilson, needs rebuild or replace, gear doesn't move and has bad wear on gear end
Flywheel turns
Havent got it to turn over yet, next trip, but any insights appreciated
I have a 74 3000. I checked for the filter in the tank and there was none. It had an inline on it when I got it. I've read most of those in tank filters fall off and are in the tank. That is why guys put in line on them.
 
Ford 2000; 3 cyl. gas; 4/1 trans.....when I looked into the tank of my tractor I could see the 'hat' filter laying in the bottom of the tank plus about a 6" piece of 1x2. I replaced the tank valve and found the old one full of flaky debris which was clogging fuel flow. Put the new valve in with filter sitting on top of it and replaced the in-line filter. Tractor cranked right up.
 
Can't see a filter anywhere in tank, but Carb cleaned and drains ok. On that, other sites imply you can't bypass fuel pump? Doesn't make much sense to me based on Carb/float system. But I removed the old electric pump, it's rusted out. Any idea on pump replacement spec?

Starter turns fine, spark to end of each spark plug wire, but having trouble removing plugs. Ports were filled with crap/rust due to the lack of engine cover. Cleaned as best as could, penetrant sprayed, but don't want to break plug obviously.

Maybe I'll replace fuel pump next trip if I can find a replacement, before I try plugs again.
 
When you do finally break your plugs free, blow compressed air down in the hole BEFORE removing the plug. That will help blow away loose debris, rust, etc. so it doesn't fall down into the cylinder.
 
That tractor originally had a mechanical fuel pump mounted up on the front of the engine. You can run it without a fuel pump for testing purposes if the tractor is on flat ground or the rear is slightly elevated and the tank is at least half full. An electric fuel pump made for a system with a carburetor should work fine as a replacement. You don't want anything that produces much more than 4 or 5 psi. Definitely do not use one made for a fuel injection system as they produce way too much pressure.
 
Yep, filled tank 1/2 full, made sure carb adj needles both 1 turn out, rerouted spark plug wire 3 to ensure it was reaching, and manually choked on/off and it started :) and idled ok. So now I can check over hydraulics.
Electric pump replacement (4-7 psi for a carb) on order, but will tractor run with a full tank or is that too much a risk?
 
It should run on flat ground and even some slight slopes fine with a full tank. Once it gets down around 1/2 full it won't be reliable on slopes.
 
So filled gas tank, and it appears to run ok, even on slopes, didn't stall at all in 1st High. The 4-7 psi electronic pump came in, so I'll replace as soon as I have an issue.
Haven't adjusted the carb at all.
One hydraulic rod seal leaking, have to remove to fix.

Steering is bad, very hard to work with this issue. I will read book but appreciate any insight.
 

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