Ford 2000 running problem

Seth hays

New User
I have a 1972 Ford 2000 tractor with the 3 cylinder gas motor in it and just recently have had an issue arise and I believe it's fuel. But it will start and idle just fine. But when you give it throttle or put it under a load it will spit and sputter and try to die. But if you run it with the choke on it will run like normal. I have been through the carb, blew out the fuel lines, replaced the inline fuel filter. I hope it's not a fuel pump issue since that was replaced under a year ago. I have been through the carb with a kit and replaced the needle and seat and adjusted the float height. It is a zenith carburetor not a holley.I'm not sure what else to do or look for. Thank you in advance for any help
 
Everything you have mentioned has been fuel related.
Have you checked your spark making apparatus - points, condenser, plugs, wires, voltage to the coil, ignition timing, distributor advance mechanism?
Please note I did not say Replace those things. I am asking if you have done a thorough step by step inspection and testing of all those things.
 
I have replaced all of those here recently. My issue was a very quick thing. I was bushhogging and went for another pass after a day and a half, and it just happened. I have replaced the plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor points and condenser in the last year. I can check them in the morning. But how would I go about testing the vacuum advance or the mechanical advance? It's weird to me because it seems like it's not getting enough fuel. But when you shut it off it flood out the front of the carb. I can check spark in the morning, and let you know.
 
There is an old saying that goes something like '50% of fuel problems can be traced to poor spark.'
Remember that by pulling the choke out you enrich the air/fuel mixture which will ignite even with a degraded spark - up to a point of course.
The way to begin is to pull a wire off a plug and hold it near the block. Crank it over and watch the spark. A good running ignition system will produce a bright, bluish white spark that will jump at least 5/16 in.
Short or yellowish red spark will Not do.
The first thing I always do when diagnosing a poor running engine is VERIFY that it has good spark.
 
If it came on suddenly like you say I'd look for some debris sloshing around the bottom of the tank that blocked the fuel flow. Mine used to quit occasionally and sometimes restart, sometimes not for a day or two. Finally took off the sediment bowl (not the original) and found a small piece of dry leaf in the vertical passage. Hasn't quit since.
 
I just bought a 2000 so I read all the posts, though not having any trouble with mine at the time. A friend has a 2600 with what sounds like the same problem. If I am right, there is a screen type filter where the line goes into the fuel pump. That was what kept his cutting out. Maybe 2000 has a different set up.
 
It has spark and it's good spark, I checked my points gap and it was good. Checked the fuel pump inlet for a screen and didn't find one. But my issue still remains. Idles fine but has to run with the choke on if you want anything but idle. My next thing I'm going to test is if there is an air leak around the carb, just have to get some propane and I'll try it later today.
 
So I ran it and check for leaks with propane, didn't change anything. I'll try tomorrow to see if I can see anything in the tank blocking the outlet. Is there a way to check vacuum and mechanical advance on those distributors?
 

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