Ford 3600 clutch PP finger adjustment.

So I split my 3600 because a freeze plug rotted out.

I noticed a cotter pin on one of the arms was gone, but no other damage. Decided to service the clutch and other parts in the bell to see if it possible to die before I ever have to split a tractor in the summer in Georgia again. I had no trans or PTO problem previously, but some glazing was evident, the bell was covered in black gunk so rear seal was leaking. Even found old shims in there too.

I have the B&B type II IPTO clutch out and on the bench. Marked it up for reassembly and took it apart with c-clamps and inspected everything. I'm putting clutch back together and I have questions.

1. The flange on the PTO disk was facing the trans. Is this correct for 3600?

2. I know Arms to Flange is 2.110, but I noticed shims on every arm. They were installed over the arm between the arm and clip and not down on the fulcrum. Makes no sense. Is this right?

3. Should I take the PP to a dealer or clutch shop to set? Or can I mount it to the fly wheel and use a runout gauge to check/adjust the fingers/finger bolts? Between the shims and the adjustment nut, how complex can it be?

Thanks - $1 part = full split but glad I saw what was going on.

How much wear on links with set screw and jam nut? If not to bad can be turned by removing snap ring then r/r. I got to useing flywheel as gauge. Yes shims go under cotter. The socket head screw sets trans
disc disengagement. Half of 1/8 cotter works real well for gauge.

1. The flange for both discs faces towards the rear.

2. The shims are installed between the spring and the cotter pin as shown in the two pics below. They are only there to keep the lever from
rattling. The book says to install shims to achieve a slight preload.

3. This clutch can be adjusted on the flywheel, although I always used a jig at the dealer. If I were you, I'd take the flywheel off and do
it on the bench with the clutch sitting horizontal. The important thing is to have the lever heights all the same, and the gap between the
strut and pin the same as well. The factory manual calls for a tool of a specific thickness, but I don't know what that thickness is. Shaun
says half of a 1/8 cotter pin, which sounds pretty close to me.

One more thing to add: if you have the flywheel surfaced, make sure equal amounts are taken off of both the friction surface as well as the
mounting surface to keep the pot depth the same.

(reply to post at 15:52:11 08/08/21)

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Links are good. put shims on top. 2.110 is from top of PTO spline to the contact surface of the bolt heads at the end of the arms?

I can't speak to your 2.110 number - not sure where you got it from. The factory jig uses tool # xyz.

(quoted from post at 19:28:26 08/08/21) I can't speak to your 2.110 number - not sure where you got it from. The factory jig uses tool # xyz.

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I was trying to adjust without being installed, ugh - that's not possible. So I am going to bolt the clutch to the flywheel, then gap it, install and check again. I have an external clutch pedal spring, so my gap is 0.050-0.054 for the distance between the elliptical pin and the machine screw on each arm. I can use the unfluted end of a drill bit about that size as a gauge. The contact surface where the screwheads meet the bearing need to be a distance of 2.110 inches from the edge of the spline nearest the trans. I think I get now why it was recommended to flip the pins, they show a little wear. The mechanical design seems overly complex for what it do, but it also seems easier to adjust than a MF 135 or same era Deere. Hardly any vids of this adjustment of the B&B on the intertubes, so thank you all for your help.