601 workmaster 1957?

snickers

New User
have a prob with my 601 work master has been changed over to 12 voilt was starting and running great and it up and stoped like i shut it off wasnt out of gas carb bowl was full, so i ckd the coil wire by holding it to the motor no fire no spark i had been having trouble with the ign switch so it took it out and wired the wires together still no fire ckd the wire from solenoid to the dist with a meter nothing replaced the wire nothing, changed the solenoid still nothing will crank over but no nothing to the dist so im chaseing my tail here
 
Snickers,
Welcome to the Ford Board.
This is undoubtedly the best forum on the
entire internet to get help with these old
Fords. However, we are not good code
breakers.
Clear writing, with proper punctuation and
sentence structure is very important if you
wish the guys here to understand you and
give the information you seek.
 
WOW! Talk about run-on sentences and fragments. Best to slow down, get out your ESSENTIAL MANUALS and STOP buying new parts just to replace old by guessing what the problems are. You need to apply a true root cause problem solving method for any problem. Leave all the guesswork for lottery numbers. Did you perform the fuel flow test? Just because the Sediment Bulb is full doesn't mean diddly squat. If carb passes fuel flow test, move on, it isn't a fuel issue. 99% likely electrical -...ign switch so it took it out and wired the wires together.... Why did you replace the solenoid for, again? 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to mucked up wiring. You say you've have done a 12V switch over job. Did it run fine on 6V/POS GRN before you did that? Did you do it yourself or someone else? Was it done correctly? In any system the very first component to check is the battery. It is the heart of every machine. Your old ignition switch and your solenoid are most likely good. When starter motor click, click, clicks when the pushbutton is pressed, chances are the battery is weak or dead and NOT the ignition switch or the solenoid. Start over and go slowly. Pull the battery and take to a local shop to get tested on their special machine under load. If it's bad, then you can buy a new decent brand but do not install it yet. Go thru the entire wiring system to verify if correct before applying power. Lighting kits were never factory installed til the 800 Model so disconnect light wiring -you can reconnect after you troubleshoot the rest of the wiring circuit. Wiring in the lighting circuit is often the culprit for shorts because they are done wrong. If you don't know the system was wired originally, how can you troubleshoot the new 12V one? The 6V setup used a GENERATOR and a VOLTAGE REGULATOR. Did you replace the GEN with an ALT and remove the VR from the circuit altogether? Regardless if a GEN or an ALT is used, if you do not have fan belt tension device installed, you will never charge the battery. Take baby steps by logical investigations. Once the wiring circuit is verified to be correct, then you can connect the battery and power up. The next step would be to proceed with a tuneup but know how and what you are doing.

FORD 600/800 ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
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FORD NAA/600/800/900 OEM WIRING 6V/POS GRN:
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NAA/600/800/900 12V SWITCH OUT:
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NOTE: NEUTRAL SAFETY START PUSHBUTTON SHOWN DISCONNECTED NOT RECOMMENDED! 6-V COIL NEEDS AN EXTERNAL 1-OHM RESISTOR.




Tim Daley(MI)
 

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