question on engine rebuild

moday

Member
My engine is in pieces and I need to being re-assembly. What is the recommended process for sealing? I plan to buy the gaskets in a kit and I assume most items will be cork. In the past I've put blue rtv on a surface (like an oil pan or water pump) and let it get sticky and then apply the gasket and repeat the RTV on the other mating surface before assembly. Someone else told me about hylomar.never worked with that item. I don't have the head off...need to seal water pump, front cover, oil pan, water outlet and valve cover....thanks in advance!
 
(quoted from post at 11:33:59 08/06/21) My engine is in pieces and I need to being re-assembly. What is the recommended process for sealing? I plan to buy the gaskets in a kit and I assume most items will be cork. In the past I've put blue rtv on a surface (like an oil pan or water pump) and let it get sticky and then apply the gasket and repeat the RTV on the other mating surface before assembly. Someone else told me about hylomar.never worked with that item. I don't have the head off...need to seal water pump, front cover, oil pan, water outlet and valve cover....thanks in advance!

I use alot of Permatex Hi Tack gasket sealant
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I tend to use Aviation form a gasket for tacking down one side of a paper or a gray gasket or on something hard to get to later on then I do both sides. Same or similar stuff recommended for airplane engines. I just hate it when all your oil leaks out at 10,000 feet flying at night. Just have to make sure you can get to a place to scrape the old off or spray on gasket remover.

If you go to the tractor forum and do a search on gasket you will find numerous similar questions and bunches of answers. I see blue, black, and gray RTV a lot. Grease by some. Grease, copper coat, aluminum spray paint, and nothing on head gaskets so those are a upickit for that gasket. Lots of responses from long time engine builders so you have to pick and go with what you like best.

On somethings I've started using the red high temp grease as a coating. Had to buy a tube anyway and figured the high temp would do better than the regular grease.
 


I read and follow the instructions. If there are none in the package go to the web site of the gasket set manufacturer
 
Where do you do a search in a Forum? I don't see the options to search a forum and I thought I've done this before.

Also, if researching gasket sealant, do I stay in the Ford forum or is there a specific one for engine rebuilds?

thanks, Moday
 
Where do you do a search in a Forum? I don't see the options to search a forum and I thought I've done this before.

You must be using classic view. If you click on the link in the upper right that says "Modern View" there will be a link near the top right of the new page that says "Search"
 

I don't know for sure about anything specific to Ford or the Shibaura engines made in Nippon. I guarantee you won't find a ford shop manual from the 60's that says to use RTV on anything. Same thing goes for oil recommendations in the manuals. Today's oils are so much better. No manual from the 60's is going to say to use synthetic oil either.

All that said there are a few guys here who have been working on ford engines forever and I am a Fix or Repair Daily newbie. I've worked on ford car engines back in the 60's and I don't think we did anything different than what we did on Chevys and Mopars.

I have my Shibaura engine down at a shop getting a head crack welded and then reworked. They work on every kind of engine there is.

Only other thing I can say is that I have always learned to use vaseline on Orings around hydraulics which I suppose should work on anything rubber.

Lastly you will have to decide what to use for a break in oil depending upon what you are doing. You can get the additives to add to regular oil off the shelf. One guy recommends John Deere break in oil which is expensive. I found a 5 gal. can of Lucas breakin oil on Amazing for about 94 bux but didn't buy it. My research indicates that breakin oil is basically the non detergent 30 wt. mineral oil sold and mainly used in mower engines but with then put in the Zinc/ZDDP additives to protect the cam lobes and flat tappet lifters from excess wear during breakin. Theory on the breakin oil for seating rings is that you don't want to use oil with all the new slick additives now available in oil because the additives tend to glaze the cylinder surfaces and don't allow the rings to seat properly and then don't have the best compression and they use a little more oil. Zinc doesn't hurt the rings from seating but helps the other parts. Good luck
 
I have always used Type II permatex. It is non-hardening and easily cleans up with denatured alcohol.
After you take it back apart, you can clean the old stuff off with a scotch-brite and alcohol.
Built a lot of Harley engines and customer's don't like to see sealant on their chrome. This stuff wipes right off.
 

I use Ultra Gray RTV, a every thin coat on one side of the gasket and nothing on the other.
Quit using the smelly blue and red RTV years ago
 
(quoted from post at 21:26:09 08/06/21)
(quoted from post at 11:33:59 08/06/21) My engine is in pieces and I need to being re-assembly. What is the recommended process for sealing? I plan to buy the gaskets in a kit and I assume most items will be cork. In the past I've put blue rtv on a surface (like an oil pan or water pump) and let it get sticky and then apply the gasket and repeat the RTV on the other mating surface before assembly. Someone else told me about hylomar.never worked with that item. I don't have the head off...need to seal water pump, front cover, oil pan, water outlet and valve cover....thanks in advance!

I use alot of Permatex Hi Tack gasket sealant
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Is the hi tack the one with a brush in a small jar? That ok for coolant and oil?
 

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