F900 rear axle bearing seal part

Anyone know what parts to get for a 1976 Ford f900 rear end bearing seal? How hard of a job is this?

Have you tried a Ford dealer?

It would surprise me if a Ford dealer had a listing on it. Maybe one that's been around and works on heavy trucks. Good luck with that.

I have been out of heavy truck fix'N 20 years are so for local try NAPA you may need the old numbers off the seal. Fleetpride would be a good place to check out as they have brought out most truck parts suppliers.

More info would be needed I jacked up the wheel just off the ground oiled up a piece of tin slid under the tires and slid the complete asy off...

I hope I am never poor enoufh to do truck work again : ) OK OK its not that bad.... It can be dirty : (

Went local Ford dealer for something on 1983 F800 and got laughed at said good luck, Ford thru all that stuff away.

What seal exactly are you talking about? The pinion or the axles? If you want dealer stuff you need to find a Sterling dealer, which Ford heavy trucks turned into. Otherwise, find a truck shop like Truck-Pro .

Not too bad with the correct tools. First thing you need to do is ID what type of axle you have. Don't bother going to a Ford dealer, they will laugh you out of the building. Try and find a tag or some other axle markings on it, take some pics and visit your local semi-truck repair shop. It's likely an Eaton or Spicer axle.

Its the seal on the end of the axle close to the tires. I noticed oil on the rims the other day after driving.

My preferred procedure is take the tires off and support the drum on a floor jack and roll it off of there. I have a specially built V-block for mine but you can use a standard plate on the jack if you have a helper. You can do this job with the duals on, but without a dual dolly it is a real wrestling match; also includes greater risk of damage to the new seal during reassembly. Before removing the hub nut, however, make sure the brakes are backed off. Easy enough with S-cams, but wedge brakes or hydraulic brakes are a bit more involved. In that case I would loosen the hub nut and see if there is any chance the brakes are far enough out of adjustment to permit removal. If not , tighten the hub nut back up and try to loosen the adjusters. You want the hub nut tight so the drum isnt resting on the shoes while youre trying to turn the star wheels.

Can you explain the air brake part more? That has me nervous.

If you know nothing about air brakes, I would advise you to stay away. Older design spring brake cans can literally blow your head off. Don't doubt me on that!

Well with air you have either S-cams or wedges. The easiest way to deal with it is hook your air compressor to the reservoir on the truck and do the job with the brakes released. I forgot to mention that you have to get the air up to adjust the brakes anyway, so take the wheels off then put your air line on the tank til you are ready to put the wheels back on, that way you dont have to adjust anything.

Whats the next step after removing the nut?

If the brakes are released just pull the hub/drum assembly off, either supported with a jack or you can lift it off. The first inch might be a little stuck, the new seals were starting to come out that didnt turn on the axle, but were part of an assembly on which the ID of the seal was rubber and stationary on the axle tube. The sealing members then rotated around this stationary ring. The rubber ID sometimes adheres to the axle. Be ready to catch the outer bearing so it doesnt fall in the dirt. If the ID of the seal is NOT integral with the then you will have to remove the seal ring from the axle and install a new one . When installing the seal in the hub, you should spend a few bucks for the official seal driver, and the same for the seal ring , if required. Its hard to start a large OD seal without distorting it, and the seal with the integral ID is particularly susceptible to installation damage. When youre putting it back together, pack the bearings with grease and/or top off the oil level in the differential. This will give them sufficient lubrication until the oil makes it all the way to the inner bearing.

(quoted from post at 07:41:10 07/28/21) Went local Ford dealer for something on 1983 F800 and got laughed at said good luck, Ford thru all that stuff away.

Click to expand...

Ford didn't throw that stuff away
When Freightliner purchased Fords heavy truck division everything was transferred to the new Sterling Truck company.

Most times when I replace a axle seal I find a bearing or bearing race is going bad, with oil leaking out on the rims you'll most likely have oil soaked brake shoes that should be replaced.
Knowing what axle the truck has helps, Ford used Eaton and Rockwell axles during that time, I usually remove and cleanup up the old seal so it can be matched up to a new one at a local truck parts dealer, Fleetpride is one.
Sounds like this is your first time doing something like this, check around for someone that's done this before that would be willing to help.
It's not that hard for someone with experience but for a first timer it can turn into a real challenge.
The brakes need to be released to get the drum off so the system must have min of 65 psi, 90+ would be better.
If the brake drum has a grove worn with the shoes adjusted up into the grove the drum won't come off until the brake adjustment is backed off, a very simple task on S cam systems but a royal pain on Wedge brakes. I hate wedge brakes!
There's 2 axle nuts with a locking washer between them, some locking washers have tabs that are bent over the outer nut, a hammer and chisel is used the straighten the tabs in order to remove the outer nut, make sure to bend a couple of tabs back over the outer nut before installing the axle.
Some locking washers have multiple holes to line up with a pin sticking out of the inner nut to keep it from turning
Pay close attention to the bearing races for roughness or flaking, especially the inner race, replace if needed
Once everything is back together and the brakes are adjusted check the oil level in the axle and fill as needed, then pull the opposite side wheels up on a block of wood (a 6x6 works well) and let it set that way for a 10-15 minutes, this will allow oil in the axle to run over to the hub that was removed filling that hub with much needed oil.
Good luck with your repair

Im hoping its just the outter seal. The one behind the center cover
on the axle. Its leaking only out of the end there.

So just the outer axle flange is leaking, unbolt it and slide the axle out enough to clean the axle and hub, put a light (1/8: or less coat of RTV on the flange and bolt it back on
There is on seal there but originally had a gasket