Ford 2000 diesel hard to start

twingum

New User
Have had a Ford 2000 3 cyl diesel for about 30 years. Lately it has become hard to start. I must bleed the fuel lines multiple times until it eventually starts. Once it does, it runs fine and can go all day. If you cut it off, will have to do the bleeding again. I replaced the fuel injectors and fuel filter about two years ago. I only use it about 20 h/year. Will start if pulled. Any suggestions?
 
I suggest changing the fuel filters again. If that doesn't help, check the diaphragm in the fuel transfer pump. I had one that was cracked but I couldn't see the crack until I held the
diaphragm up to the sun.
 


Next time it won't start when hot try just pouring a gallon of WARM water over the pump instead of bleeding. That is what I did one summer prior to a rebuild to finish out the season.
 
(quoted from post at 18:48:32 07/25/21) Have had a Ford 2000 3 cyl diesel for about 30 years. Lately it has become hard to start. I must bleed the fuel lines multiple times until it eventually starts. Once it does, it runs fine and can go all day. If you cut it off, will have to do the bleeding again
ounds like you are losing prime, maybe a leak??


I replaced the fuel injectors and fuel filter about two years ago
This is where I would start looking for leaks


Will start if pulled
ull starting is most likely doing the same thing as you do - bleeding out the fuel lines. Tractors always start easier when being pulled
 
Thank you.
When searching for leaks what exactly am I looking for? Diesel flowing out of fuel line connections or gaskets? Or could the leaks be internal and not obvious during a visual inspection?
 
(quoted from post at 12:56:56 07/26/21) Thank you.
When searching for leaks what exactly am I looking for? Diesel flowing out of fuel line connections or gaskets? Or could the leaks be internal and not obvious during a visual inspection?
If you keep losing your prime, you have a leak somewhere in the system. Start with the easiest to check.

Sometimes tractors are such a mess there's no way to identify where leaks are coming from. Start by cleaning the areas for potential leaks. Again, first few places to look are places you touched previously. Leaks will usually show up as wet areas, either while running, or after being shut down for a while.

Next, check hoses and lines for signs of rubbing and leaking.
 
It seems to be spitting out squirts of diesel fuel as I turn the engine. I see this in each of the three lines.
 
(quoted from post at 18:33:14 07/26/21) It seems to be spitting out squirts of diesel fuel as I turn the engine. I see this in each of the three lines.


If you are not expelling air you are not bleeding. See my other two posts.
 
I put a new fuel filter as suggested. I checked for leaks in the lines but found none. Engine is clean as I washed it a couple of years ago when changing injectors and doing a valve adjustment; should be able to see leaking. To make sure I went through every connection in the fuel system and tighten up. After bleeding, the tractor started and I let it run for 15 minutes. After setting overnight, I am back to square one this morning.

Anything else in the fuel system I should check? Should I be looking at the fuel pump next? I really appreciate your help troubleshooting this. I am in a rural area of Mississippi and the nearest shop is about 60 miles away.
 
(quoted from post at 04:59:22 07/27/21) I put a new fuel filter as suggested. I checked for leaks in the lines but found none. Engine is clean as I washed it a couple of years ago when changing injectors and doing a valve adjustment; should be able to see leaking. To make sure I went through every connection in the fuel system and tighten up. After bleeding, the tractor started and I let it run for 15 minutes. After setting overnight, I am back to square one this morning.

Anything else in the fuel system I should check? Should I be looking at the fuel pump next? I really appreciate your help troubleshooting this. I am in a rural area of Mississippi and the nearest shop is about 60 miles away.


check my other two posts again.
 
Showcrop,
I did read your posts several times. Not sure what you mean by pushing air vs pushing fuel. I can see the fuel squirting but cant see any air bubbles. I did follow the priming instructions posted in this forum several times (screw above filter >> bleeding screw in pump >> 3 injector lines). It does start after a few tries but have to bleed all over again next day. All fittings seem to be tight.
I have not tried the warm water bath yet.

Someone suggested I need to rebuild the pump. I would like to eliminate all other possibilities before I go through that expense.

Thank you for your time.
 
(quoted from post at 18:36:48 07/27/21) Showcrop,
I did read your posts several times. Not sure what you mean by pushing air vs pushing fuel. I can see the fuel squirting but cant see any air bubbles. I did follow the priming instructions posted in this forum several times (screw above filter >> bleeding screw in pump >> 3 injector lines). It does start after a few tries but have to bleed all over again next day. All fittings seem to be tight.
I have not tried the warm water bath yet.

Someone suggested I need to rebuild the pump. I would like to eliminate all other possibilities before I go through that expense.

Thank you for your time.


Twingum, if you are not expelling air you are not bleeding, all you are doing is passing time. During this time the pump head cools down. The combination of time and introduction of cool fuel solves the problem of excessive clearance in the pump head. It looks like you will need a rebuild, but I would perform the warm water test before encumbering that expense. I am confident that an oil change instead of bleeding would give you the same result.
 
mvphoto79292.jpg


Fuel pump has been mentioned and you say there is a bleeder screw on the pump. First we need to decide what injection pump you have. The first picture describes the two types of injection pumps that could be possible. I doubt that a 2000 had an inline pump from factory, but things may have been swapped during the years. If you have the inline type, stop reading here. The rest of this post regards the CAV DPA type.

First, do you have a lift/priming pump mounted between the filter head and the injection pump, or is the line from the filter head going directly to the injection pump? If there is a lift/priming pump, that can be the problem. But that is another issue.


On the CAV DPA type injector pump, there is an end plate where the fuel enters. This end plate contains a filter and a valve. Those can cause various troubles if they are not clean and in order. It could be so that the bleeding gives a flush that makes fuel flow more freely. Same for the towing that gives more pump speed than cranking with the starter. Taking it apart and service it can be the solution to your problems, and I would do it before the ordeal and costs that servicing the whole pump will be.

Taking the end plate apart includes that you will be dealing with several small parts that are spring loaded. Some say it is best done with the end plate in place on the pump, but I think you have better control over the parts if you remove the end plate from the pump and deal with it on the work bench.


mvphoto79293.jpg


First, clean the pump and surroundings properly.
Look at the diagram showing the parts in the end plate. The details may differ from what you have but it gives a hint of what you should expect.

After removing the inlet line, crack the threaded collar (#10) loose. Do not remove it. It is easier to crack it loose this way than with the end plate removed.

Unbolt the four screws that holds the end plate to the injection pump. There is an o-ring behind the end plate that needs attention.

Put the endplate on a clean workbench. With a tool (screwdriver) through the threaded collar, you hold back the parts as you unthread and lift the collar. Then, very slowly, release the pressure on the tool to relieve the spring pressure.

Remove the parts and place them in order on the bench. Clean and examine the parts.

If you are not comfortable with the operation, bring the end plate to a shop and have it serviced there instead.

At reassembly, the four screws holding the end plate to the injection pump should be torqued to 5.1 Nm (45 lbf-in).

This post was edited by Hacke on 07/28/2021 at 06:45 am.
 
Yes, I have the inline CPA/DPA type, and there is no priming pump between the filter and the injection pump. I had no idea there was a filter inside the endplate. Thank you for the sketches they are worth 1000 words. The written instructions are also very clear. Looks like this is a job where you want to go slow. Will tackle over the next few days and report back. If I find anything filthy and worth sharing will post a picture. I appreciate the good help.
 

Actually, you do not have an inline pump, CAV DPA is a distributor (rotary) pump.

If you choose to remove the endplate, wet the exposed end with some diesel and cover it with cling film. The inside of the pump must not be contaminated, and moisture in the air starts corrosion immediately.

I think it is best to buy a full service kit beforehand. You will have the filter, washers and the o-ring ready to replace. Some parts will never be used, but it is good to be ready when the shafts through the cover starts leaking, for instance. Fresh copper washers are sometimes a bliss.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-3000_Injector-Pump-Repair-Kit_CAV7135110.html

This site has some nice diagrams:
https://injectionpumps.co.uk/interactive/interactive-cav-dpa-parts-diagram.htm

CAV (Lucas CAV) was bought by Delphi, so new original parts have the Delphi brand.

A shop manual, intended for experts but there are some good information for the hobbyist:
https://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/CAV%20DPA%20Pump%20Rebuild%20Manual.pdf


Easy does it.
 
Great help, THANK YOU!!
Repair kit is on its way - should be here next week.
I have been searching for the pump diagram, unsuccessfully - thanks for sharing.
Cheers
 

You learn every day, it seems like some pumps (especially those with all aluminium endplates) suffer from worn endplates and vanes. That could be one of the causes that the pump needs a certain speed to perform.

But do not throw parts at the pump now, service the filter/valve and see if that helps, first. Examine the surface for the vanes if you have the endplate removed (see marked area in picture).
mvphoto79487.jpg
 
Thanks for the diagrams.
Removed the end plate and was disappointed everything looked clean and in order. The tractor is over 50 years old and I have had it for over 30 years, so I expected buildup. Is possible the pump was rebuilt before I bought. I replaced the small filter, a couple of copper washers, and the rubber gasket between the plate and pump. After bleeding it started. Ran it for 15 min and let it set for a few hours, Back to square 1 - had to bleed again to start. Bummer.

Any other thoughts?
 

Sorry, I was sure we found the culprit.
I have nothing but three looong shots:

1.
Run it for 15 minutes and shut down.
Immediately after the engine has stopped, push the shut off knob fully in (like when you start) and let it sit for a few hours.
Try to start, with full throttle.

2.
Remove the fuel tank filler cap.
Run it for 15 minutes and shut down.
Let it sit for a few hours, still with the cap off.
Try to start (cap off).

3.
Mix 50/50 ATF and diesel fuel in a squeeze bottle.
Remove the inlet line from the pump.
The bottle should have a spout or nozzle that fits into the pump inlet.
Remove the bleed screw from the pump.
Insert the spout into the inlet and fill the pump until the mixture comes out through the bleeder hole.
Put the bleed screw back.
Put the inlet line back.
With shut off knob fully out and throttle off (handle fully forward), crank the engine for 10 seconds.
Work the shut off knob fully in/fully out a couple of times.
Leave the shut off knob fully in (like when you start).
Let sit over night.
Pull shut off knob fully out and have throttle off.
Remove the bleed screw from the pump and crank the engine until clear fuel comes out.
Bleed the system like you use to.
Run the engine for 15 minutes.
Immediately after the engine has stopped, push the shut off knob fully in (like when you start) and let it sit for a few hours.
Try to start, with full throttle.

----- * -----
 

Generally we like to do the quick and easy tests and repair attempts before diving into the complicated ones.
 

One thing that came to mind:
Remove the tank/filters/lines out of the equation, by rigging a suitable (say, a gallon plastic bottle) container on the side of the hood. Run a plastic tube from the container to the tube that attaches to the injection pump inlet.

The container has to be ventilated. Easiest is to place the container with the cap up. Make one hole for the plastic hose and another one for ventilation, in the cap. Run the plastic hose to the bottom of the container.

Now you can start a siphon, that will feed the pump, by blowing air through the ventilation hole. Blow with the pump end of the hose removed from the pump tube, and attach it when the fuel starts flowing without air in it.

Wrap a clean rag around the cap, to keep debris out of the tank.

Try as before.
 
Thank you Hacke and Showcrop.
All promising suggestions worth a shot.
Will work systematically through these over the next couple of days.
 
First of all, thanks for the continued support.
I completed Hacke's #1 and #2 but have not gotten around to #3, or to Showcrop's isolation bottle. Neither 1 or 2 did the trick.

In the process I noticed a tiny fuel leak at the base of one injector. At first I thought it was shiny metal after a cleaning but after drying it up with contact cleaner and getting it dull, the shinnying came back. I don't think it is leaking from the fuel line connectors and the injector nuts are as tight as I can get them.
Could such a tiny leak be the culprit? If so, how should I approach?
If not, I will continue to Hacke's #3.
Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 07:52:05 08/04/21) First of all, thanks for the continued support.
I completed Hacke's #1 and #2 but have not gotten around to #3, or to Showcrop's isolation bottle. Neither 1 or 2 did the trick.

In the process I noticed a tiny fuel leak at the base of one injector. At first I thought it was shiny metal after a cleaning but after drying it up with contact cleaner and getting it dull, the shinnying came back. I don't think it is leaking from the fuel line connectors and the injector nuts are as tight as I can get them.
Could such a tiny leak be the culprit? If so, how should I approach?
If not, I will continue to Hacke's #3.
Thanks


Twingum, I don't see anytrhing that I posted that looks like an isolation bottle whatever that may be. Along with mine you also have quick simple suggestions from Jim's tractors.
 

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