Delco 10si 3 wire hook up on Ford 3000

JerryLook

Member
I think I managed to make my factory brackets work with this alternator. So its mounted. Now to hook it up.

The battery stud goes to the battery, the ground stud goes to ground, the #2 terminal gets jumpered to the battery stud.

My questions are about terminal #1. Do I have to connect it? My gauge cluster doesnt work and Im not planning on replacing it any time soon.

Also what gauge wire should I run to the battery? The stock wire seems small for a 63 amp alternator. Is 10 awg big enough or should I go with 8 awg?

Another complaint I found about having a loader tractor. You cant just change the belt out to a different size without disconnecting the shaft going to the loader pump. I should figure out how to do that some day for when this belt breaks.
 
Terminal #1 needs to be a key switched battery positive source. This signal is what excites the regulator and gets things going. It won't
charge without it.

10 gauge would be plenty unless you plan on using all 63 amps continuously, and I don't know how you could possibly do that on a 3000.
 
(quoted from post at 00:54:22 07/25/21)
Ive used the factory size wires on all the conversations Ive done, no issues with any of them and the first was done 20 years ago

I think the factory wiring would be sufficient. The runs are so short. But, I just happen to have a nice roll of 10awg and 16awg wire right here.

Honestly just starting the tractor doesnt drain the battery very much. I usually get a whole summer out of the battery without having to charge it. But Im sure its not good for the battery to be run down over time. Which is why I wanted to finally fix my charging problem.
And I hardly ever run the tractor very much over idle, so Im sure a generator wouldnt be doing much anyways.
 
10ga will be good for alternator output.

63 amps is the rated maximum output for your alternator at maximum load demand and maximum RPM, neither of which will ever reach with your tractor. The regulator will keep output at only what the loads demand.

If it is a 3 wire alternator you need a momentary voltage applied to #1 pin to start the alternator to charge when engine is started.

If you have a working charge indicator light you can connect the generator end to #1 pin. If you have an ammeter you can connect a diode, indicator lamp, or resistor in line from ignition switch output to #1 pin.
 
I just finished my install. It charges at 13.7-13.8 VDC at idle. Im very happy with that.
There was a switched power wire at the ignition key I tapped into for pin 1.
I still have to decide what to do with the wiring going to the voltage reg. It would be nice to get rid of it and clean up the harness. I dont see me ever going back to a gen again. Not with these alternators being so cheap.

Im impressed with how the little truck battery I have in it starts the tractor. Its a 600CCA battery out of an S10 pickup. I got tired of lifting the big battery in and out, so I use small ones now. I dont use the tractor much below freezing temps, so I dont need a big battery.

Anyways, thanks for the help guys.
 

I get a terminal block and connect the 3 power wires together, then connect the field wire and warning light wire together
I locate the terminal block were the voltage regulator use to go

mvphoto79113.jpg
 

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