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Honing issues with new 861 sleeves

R

rick38

New User
I'm in the process of rebuilding a badly rusted Ford 861.

After pulling the new cylinder sleeves in the block (purchased the complete engine kit from YT) the sleeves closed up approximately
.002 of an inch. So now I'm using a hone (not a "glaze breaker") to bring it back to the .0015 piston to wall clearance as stated in the repair manual. Using a #150 grit initial cut stone, I have almost ground through a stone set and I haven't even gotten two holes done.

I have never seen sleeves this hard!

Anybody else run into this?
 
What make hone are you using?
Lisle? Sunnen?

I have a Lisle and I start with the 80 grit stones when Im removing material, then switch to finer grit for final finish.

Are you flooding with oil? Keeping the hone moving up and down? Ive had some stones wear right out, others go the distance.

Ive never worked on the little fords, but Ive seen press fit sleeves shrink slightly once pressed in and need a little honing to get round again.

Ive honed ductile iron sleeves many times, those things are tough.
 
(quoted from post at 19:14:38 05/06/21) What make hone are you using?
Lisle? Sunnen?

I have a Lisle and I start with the 80 grit stones when Im removing material, then switch to finer grit for final finish.

Are you flooding with oil? Keeping the hone moving up and down? Ive had some stones wear right out, others go the distance.

Ive never worked on the little fords, but Ive seen press fit sleeves shrink slightly once pressed in and need a little honing to get round again.

Ive honed ductile iron sleeves many times, those things are tough.
Click to expand...

Its a Lisle. I would have started with a 80 but all i had was a 150. I have three roughed out and working on the 4th and the stones are worn out. You're probably right, i should have started with the 80. I may finish the rough on the 4th with the 180 and go to the 280 to finish all of them. They are hard and it just takes time i guess.
 
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