After plowing driveway after last snow I parked tractor. A couple days later went out to cut wood. Attempted to start tractor and the transmission was stuck in gear and cannot start tractor. thinking maybe transmission fluid is low or maybe just dirty and ready for a change. Anyways does this sound like a possibility or am I going in wrong direction? While I am thinking of the transmission what is the name/type transmission fluid that I fill the trans? Seems like I have looked everywhere and have found out how to check the level and drain and add transmission fluid but do not know what transmission fluid to get? Thanks!

Thanks showcrop will do!

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You should drain just a 4 ounce sample and make an evaluation.

Warmed up today and have good news, apparently there was water (Frozen) in the in the trans because I was able to easily get the tractor out of gear in to neutral. All is good, thanks for all of the help. Now I guess I should drain the trans fluid or at a minimum take a look at the fluid and change, what do you think? Or should I leave it alone?

I do have a clutch on my 2000 assume that is different than clutch packs? You are saying that I should drain some of the transmission fluid which should include some condensation. It is supposed to be warmer tomorrow (above freezing) so I will drain some and do a little inspection of the fluid I drain. What fluid should I use when I drain the existing fluid?

It appears that trans-hydraulic oil may not be good for your tractor. While it is good in most, and required in any tractor with clutch packs it has a significant drawback. The additives that are in it that make it better for clutch packs cause it to absorb moisture out of the air. In a tractor that is in regular use this is not an issue because when it is run under load for over an hour or so the oil gets hot enough to drive the moisture out. If the tractor is used infrequently or for short times without doing significant work the oil will absorb a lot of moisture. Oil with the appearance of a coffee milkshake is a frequent question here. Oil with moisture in suspension is not a good lubricant. If you use the original spec'd gear oil the moisture will still be drawn into the cases but it will just condense on the inner wall then run down and settle on the bottom where you can drain it out periodically by just loosening the drain plug. Your 2000 has no clutch packs so the UTF will do it no good and if you don't work it it will hurt it.

What is difference between 90W GL-1 and trans-hydraulic fluid? I have had the tractor for more that 6 years and have never had any issues with the tractor getting stuck in gear and have never checked the transmission fluid. I will check/change the tranny fluid as soon as I have the opportunity. Where can I get the trans-hydraulic fluid?

All over the place. Spec is 134 A or B for Ford label, or 303 for JD label. Since the whale oil fiasco, JD quit using the 300 number but some after market suppliers still list 300 in the JD specs on the rear side of the containers, and some have the title of the label 300. It is listed as trans-hydraulic fluid, not hydraulic fluid, and not PREMIUM Trans-Hyd-Diff fluid....designed for hydrostatic equipment and wet brakes...costs more due to more additives.

On the other question, viscosity runs around 10-20w depending on who made it vs 90w GL-1 gear oil..

Fluid initially was 90W GL-1. Years ago I found that my hyd fluid was leaking into the tranny sump via pin holes in the hydraulic tube going from the hyd. pump to the hyd. section of the tractor....through the tranny case. Every once in awhile, I'd pull the full plug on the side of the housing and oil would come out. When I decided to change the tranny fluid one day, since my 3000 was using trans-hydraulic fluid with a common sump, I filled it will TH fluid. Has been working fine for years, makes a little more gear noise in the summer, but winters are easy shifting.

4 cylinder

3 or 4 cylinder 2000?

water/ice in the transmission?