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Where to check hydraulic pressure on 3000

T

Tiger Joe

Member
So since my lift is still slow in my 3000, I want to check my pump pressure make sure I didnt mess up the rebuild.

Im reading the I&T manual and am slightly confused. They seem to reference 3 different places to check pressure:

1- at pump using the plug for priming
2- at pressure port next to flow control valve
3- on plate under seat for accessory valve.

Well I have a valve not the plate so 3 is out for me.

Which one do I use of 1 and 2? Do I check both locations?

Can I screw a gauge directly into the port, or do I need to to plumb in a valve and run hose back to the rear end? To me it seems if there is a plug there now I could just remove plug install gauge, correct?
 
The plug on the pump is the easiest. If you put the gauge there you will have to hold the three point down to get it to go on relief before it hits the top of the
stroke.
 
(quoted from post at 16:36:47 02/17/21) The plug on the pump is the easiest. If you put the gauge there you will have to hold the three point down to get it to go on relief before it hits the top of the
stroke.
Click to expand...


Ok I checked it there this morning. Only got about 1700-1800 psi on my gauge with the lift chained down.

Interestingly, while I was trying to check the pressure, I see a stream of fluid coming from my pump. Appears to be where the rear half bolts to the front.

I just went through this pump though maybe not correctly. Is there anywhere to send a piston pump out to get rebuilt?
 
Cant edit but now Im thinking wanted to add:

The whole issue that started my pump rebuild was a hydraulic leak when lifting my brush hog. Maybe it has always been leaking here.

I think there is a big o ring inside the pump there. Unfortunately my rebuild kit was missing that for some reason so I reused the old one. Either it is bad or there is an issue with the pump housing. With the lift chained a steady stream is just pouring out when pressure starts building. That large of a leak has to effecting pressure
 
I just rebuilt the pump on my 841 - fairly easy. I also had a leak at the pump housing when it built pressure, but I just split the pump again, cleaned the o-ring surfaces once more and put it back together. Leak was gone.
 
(quoted from post at 15:06:38 02/18/21) I just rebuilt the pump on my 841 - fairly easy. I also had a leak at the pump housing when it built pressure, but I just split the pump again, cleaned the o-ring surfaces once more and put it back together. Leak was gone.
Click to expand...

so i just looked at messicks website, the o ring appears to be on the suction side, the leak where i have it- where the pressure housing with the 6 bolts connects, appears to only use gaskets. I did replace those gaskets when i rebuilt it
 
(quoted from post at 15:31:24 02/18/21)
(quoted from post at 15:06:38 02/18/21) I just rebuilt the pump on my 841 - fairly easy. I also had a leak at the pump housing when it built pressure, but I just split the pump again, cleaned the o-ring surfaces once more and put it back together. Leak was gone.
Click to expand...

so i just looked at messicks website, the o ring appears to be on the suction side, the leak where i have it- where the pressure housing with the 6 bolts connects, appears to only use gaskets. I did replace those gaskets when i rebuilt it
Click to expand...
ealant on gasket?
 
(quoted from post at 16:43:32 02/18/21)
(quoted from post at 15:31:24 02/18/21)
(quoted from post at 15:06:38 02/18/21) I just rebuilt the pump on my 841 - fairly easy. I also had a leak at the pump housing when it built pressure, but I just split the pump again, cleaned the o-ring surfaces once more and put it back together. Leak was gone.
Click to expand...

so i just looked at messicks website, the o ring appears to be on the suction side, the leak where i have it- where the pressure housing with the 6 bolts connects, appears to only use gaskets. I did replace those gaskets when i rebuilt it
Click to expand...
ealant on gasket?
Click to expand...

No I didnt put sealant on the gasket was afraid to with how close it was to all the pump internals.
 
You "went through it", did you rebuild it? It's a bit tricky to get the two gaskets and valve plate between the pump body and head. Is that where it's leaking? I think
you should be getting closer to 2500 psi.
 
(quoted from post at 17:13:09 02/18/21)
(quoted from post at 16:43:32 02/18/21)
(quoted from post at 15:31:24 02/18/21)
(quoted from post at 15:06:38 02/18/21) I just rebuilt the pump on my 841 - fairly easy. I also had a leak at the pump housing when it built pressure, but I just split the pump again, cleaned the o-ring surfaces once more and put it back together. Leak was gone.
Click to expand...

so i just looked at messicks website, the o ring appears to be on the suction side, the leak where i have it- where the pressure housing with the 6 bolts connects, appears to only use gaskets. I did replace those gaskets when i rebuilt it
Click to expand...
ealant on gasket?
Click to expand...

No I didnt put sealant on the gasket was afraid to with how close it was to all the pump internals.
Click to expand...
hat's good on high pressure applications.....sometimes makes gasket slip
 
(quoted from post at 18:01:27 02/18/21) You "went through it", did you rebuild it? It's a bit tricky to get the two gaskets and valve plate between the pump body and head. Is that where it's leaking? I think
you should be getting closer to 2500 psi.
Click to expand...

Yes rebuilt.

Yes that is where its leaking.

I had an unknown leak before when I lifted my brush hog. Im guessing it was always leaking here and I couldnt find it. Is there a chan e the pump housing is messed up at all? Or should I try new gaskets?

Tractor is new to me last year so I have no history. It leaked here all the time I owned it
 
I rebuilt my 2000 pump with a Tisco kit from this site. The ball cages that came with it needed some tweaking because they were softer than the originals. The legs
pinched inward and kept the balls from seating. The tips of the legs must fit into the counterbores when you assemble it. I didn't see that the first time which caused
the cages to deform. I had to straighten them with pliers. May not be your problem. As I said, a bit tricky.
 
(quoted from post at 00:17:46 02/19/21) I rebuilt my 2000 pump with a Tisco kit from this site. The ball cages that came with it needed some tweaking because they were softer than the originals. The legs
pinched inward and kept the balls from seating. The tips of the legs must fit into the counterbores when you assemble it. I didn't see that the first time which caused
the cages to deform. I had to straighten them with pliers. May not be your problem. As I said, a bit tricky.
Click to expand...

Ok pulled the pump off again today and checked it out. Didnt see anything I thought might be an issue so put it all back together. Made sure everything is tight.

No change. Lift chained the pump only hits 1700 psi and fluid starts leaking out at the gaskets/plate.
 
ok so I had time to check the pump again.

good news now is it appears I got the leak stopped. bad news is no change, the pump is makiing around 1800 with the lift chained.

so what now?

can I live with 1800 psi not the 2500 it should have?
could the relief valve be bad? I searched a bit and everything I found seemed to point to it never being the relief valve.

other option would be to try to find a good used pump I guess? don't really want to pay big money for a rebuilt one
 
If you start it at idle.. and watch the pressure as you slowly increase the throttle....

Often times, you will see it build up to 2200 lbs before the relief valve pops... then it will vibrate around 1900 lbs as the valve flutters open and closed.
 
(quoted from post at 19:46:55 02/25/21) If you start it at idle.. and watch the pressure as you slowly increase the throttle....

Often times, you will see it build up to 2200 lbs before the relief valve pops... then it will vibrate around 1900 lbs as the valve flutters open and closed.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately mine never goes over 2,000. Idle, higher rpm doesnt matter. Gauge smacks 1800 and never moves
 
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