Ford 555 injectors, pump and turbo

Re building the engine on my 1979 pre letter 555 backhoe that came stock with no turbo. This one has an API turbo added. It ran great from what I could tell before the hole in the cylinder (reason for rebuild) but now Im trying to decide to get rid of it or keep it. I want reliability and I plan to only run the machine on my 5 acres. I have been told that the pump and injectors in stock configuration with the turbo will add a little more power, not excessively wear the engine and burn the diesel cleaner. If i remove the turbo I need to cap off the oil lines to the turbo, re configure the air intake and weld up/ bolt the exhaust stack back onto the manifold. Is keeping the turbo a big risk ?

How can I fix the hard fuel lines that feed the injectors ? They leak at the injector pump fittings.

Pump says
Lucas CAV ser.21291SD
DPA 3233651

Since the torque converter is out I would like to service it but its welded together. Is servicing necessary ? How should I proceed ?

Here is a video of that Im into
https://youtu.be/C7TNUBurKoE

If the turbo is good I'd leave it on. If removed engine MIGHT have excess black smoke when under full load IF the injection pump had the max fuel setting increased for
turbo use as most pumps are. For the line leaks, try loosening/tightening the line nuts several times and see if the leaks stop. I've done this a few times to "seat" the
line end to fitting. If line is cracked just under the nut as they sometimes do it will need replaced.

Here's your injector number below.

As for the torque convertor, check the drive plate closely for cracks. especially in the middle area where the plate fastens to the converter. As for the converter itself, it obviously is not designed to be taken apart for inspection, however if it was mine I'd be checking the internals for excessive end play.

Bern would you post a photo of the bottom of that chart, I'd like to see what injectors and nozzles the 6600/6610 and 7600/7610/7710 series tractors used, wondering if they changed the injector when the went from Sims inline pump to Lucas DPS

This chart is dated 1983, so it doesn't have the DPS info you're looking for.

As I recall, the switch to the DPS pump happened about the same time they went from the high spring to the low spring injector. So yes, the part numbers should be different.

Not sure what happened to the resolution there. I will try again with a different setting.

I give up.

Thank you once again for your reply Bern, here is a quick video of me checking for cracks and endplay im not sure what is acceptable so Please let me know what you think.

https://youtu.be/R4UkzzGEVY4

Thanks for your response Dieseltech. I have now stripped the Lucas CAV DPA and would like to know your opinions on how to proceed. I have found a rebuild kit and it seems they fit all DPA style pumps?. I talked with This Canadian supplier and they only Carry good quality European and American parts no over seas junk.

https://www.canadiantractorpartsdirect.ca/CAV-Lucas-Delphi-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Repair

I also need veins as i damaged min when removing them. My turbo exhaust side housing is extremely stuck and soaking in penetrating oil at the moment but if I am able to disassemble and rebuild it i will be keeping it

How should the injector pump be adjusted?. Im looking for longevity and dont need tons more power, just a well running engine.

Is there a way i can check the injectors are working properly? Perhaps checking the nozzle size

The pump was running great when i removed it except for the leaks, once i have installed the rebuild kit am i good or do i still need to have it bench tested at a shop to be sure it is adjusted correctly ?

Here is a video of the Lucas Cav tear down for anyone interested.

https://youtu.be/j4pPqZhwbh8

This area in green sure looks concerning to me. You could confirm it's a crack by unbolting the reinforcing ring and getting a better look. Be advised however that if you remove the flexplate from the torque converter, that you really need a centering tool to reinstall it.

With regards to the torque converter end play, it's hard to tell how much you have in the video. Here's how I measure it. The tool has an expanding collet so that it grabs the internal spline of the turbine. A typical maximum end-play spec is around .025 - .050" depending on model.

The other thing you want to do is try and stick two fingers down that hole and spin the stator. It should free-wheel in one direction, and lock-up in the other. That said, it won't really "lock-up" because you can't stop the OD of it from spinning inside. You should however be able to feel the difference.

Finally, try and make a new post when your initial one gets beyond page 2. I caught this last post quite by accident - I usually don't venture out this far.