I see lotsa issues out of the gate. Yeah, a 12 battery will work POS or NEG GRND, but your 6V GEN won't charge a 12V battery so once it wears down, that's it, but your charging system wouldn't be "cooked". The N-Series M/S carb has a shorter hole spread on the flange mounting surface. What model TSX carb did you have? What do you have now? The solenoid is on the Starter Motor. It has 3-Wires. What do you have on your "car" unit? Define gas tank "erupting" - I don't understand how and why. I would have taken the tank to a reliable shop, evaluate, have it boiled and cleaned, repaired if rusted out, coated with POR-15, and go from there. OEM parts always best to rebuild - new aftermarket stuff mainly Cheena made junk. A larger line? Why ? A Farmall Sediment Bulb? Why? You don't need two and certainly not the wrong one. Do you have the ESSENTIAL MANUALS? OEM Owner Manual, I&T FO-20, and 53-59 MPC are required reading. If you don't know how your electrical setup is/was originally, how can you possibly do a 12V switch over job correctly? One system at a time. Get fuel corrected first with right parts. Marvel-Schebler TSX 593 or 706 carb. Correct SED BULB (only ONE needed) and fuel line -get at Dennis Carpenter. Perform Fuel Flow Test. Next, get your electrical corrected. 6V/POS GRN uses: 6V battery; 3-Wire/2-Brush 20A, 'B' Circuit GEN; Voltage Regulator; Starter Motor with 3-Wire Solenoid; Ignition Key switch; and AMMETER. A 12V switch over job deletes the GEN and VR, replaces with a 1-Wire (3-wire OPTL) alternator and a 12V battery, NEG GRN, and installs a 12V coil, also optional but if a 6V coil is used, need a 1-OHM external resistor. Leaking loader cylinder and steering column have nothing to do with electrical and/or fuel. Next, after fuel system is correct, move on to the electrical. A 6 volt battery does not mean your system is set up for the OEM 6V/POS GRN system. Likewise, a 12V battery does not mean you are wired correctly for a 12V system. Eschew car automotive parts and get the right tractor parts. Start with the system you want to use.
You need a strong battery to:
1. Spin the starter
2. Engage the Bendix
3. Provide voltage to the coil.
Take it to a trusty local starter/alternator or auto parts store and get it bench tested under load on their special machine. They will test it for free. While he does that, go thru the entire wiring system and verify all is correct. Use a VOM set to Continuity, not a test light and don’t use wire colors to verify and don’t use a test light. Having the correct battery cables is essential as well. 6V cables need to be a heavier gauge than 12V. 00 gauge, thick as your thumb is best, and keep posts clean and tight. Whichever system you use, you MUST have a fan belt tension device set up. Your battery WILL NOT CHARGE without proper belt tension. Once issues all verified to be correct, then can work on a tuneup if needed. Breaker point gap is .024" - .026". Spark Plug (CHAMPION H10 or H12; or AUTO-LITE 437) gap is .025"-.028". Lube and test cap. Check for slop. Then, set timing. OEM Owner Manual and I&T FO-20 Manual have the procedure. 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring.
FORD NAA, 600, & 800 ELECTRICAL w/TIMING:
CHARGING BATTERY & SPECIFIC GRAVITY:
FORD 600/800 ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
Tim Daley(MI)