8000 clutch

Josh M.

Member
Location
Northeast Ohio
I’m bringing my tractor out to college to put a clutch in it. I was looking for clutches online and I’ve found 3 or 4 different clutch discs and I’m not sure which one my tractor would have, is there a serial number difference in the tractors I can look at? Mine is a 1971 if that helps
 
Most likely will have a 13" button type plate. You can get a kit that contains the clutch plate, pressure plate and the pilot and throw out/control bearing. You will want to surface the flywheel also. A good automotive machine shop can handle that. I would also check the pump drive for the piggy back pump that drives the dual power if the tractor has dual power. They are bad to wear the splines for the shaft. Also look at the splines on the shaft. Also a good time to look at the rear main seal while you have the flyweel off the engine. Any sign of a leak and it will need to be replaced. I would not order any parts until the tractor is apart and inspected. You can find a break down of all the parts you will need at messicks.com.
 
One of the main reasons I was going to do the clutch is because the drive hub is wore pretty bad and I’d just do the clutch while I’m in there, I think I might just do it at home, I don’t think I’d have enough time to get everything done in class.
 
I agree with old ford mech except the part about surfacing the flywheel. Too many people insisting on surfacing a flywheel regardless of the condition, and after about 2-3 trips to the grinder, the flywheel is now a paperweight because it's too thin. As old as that tractor is, it's likely been surfaced a time or two in its life. I would suggest measuring the thickness first and comparing against spec to make sure you have something to work with first.
 
I agree with what Bern said about the flywheel. Always good to check before having it surfaced. Most of the button type that i used to do had been worked hard and long and needed surfacing. However if its not needed i would not do it.
 

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