Fuel Shutoff Valve

nashranch

Well-known Member
Today I pulled the gas tank on my 640 to try and repair the leaking fuel shutoff. I drilled out the pin holding the brass shutoff screw in. Tapped the hole 8-32 and used a brass screw in the tapped hole. Of course I replaced the o-ring in there. Put it all back together and no leaks.

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Removing the tank is a lot of work when you can just remove the valve from the tank in place and either fix it as you did or replace it.
 
I see thats a factory Bendix valve. I would install a valve down close to the carb so you can wear it out instead of that good valve. Where did you get an oring for it? I thought they were a little thicker than a regular oring.
 
Tell you what Rick... its easy when you already have the hood off


I might do that River when I find a shutoff valve that will work(where do I get a valve?)
I used two Harbor freight orings outta the outing kit I have.. Nice and snug... no leaks
 
Fleabay #272710162685 is what i used on mine. Chromed brass and works good. You will need a couple of line fittings also from auto parts store.
 
Where did you get an oring for it? I thought they were a little thicker than a regular oring.

Here's what I have in my notes for fuel shut off valve O-rings:

Valve to tank O-ring -115
Stem O-ring -009 For a better fit use a captive A/C O-ring 108

Needle valve is 4 mm OD X 2 mm ID
Valve to tank is 9/16 OD and .708 ID also referred to as #909 O-ring
 
(quoted from post at 17:46:11 01/15/18) I see thats a factory Bendix valve. I would install a valve down close to the carb so you can wear it out instead of that good valve. Where did you get an oring for it? I thought they were a little thicker than a regular oring.

RiverRat...right below the filter screen on this Bendix the outlet hole is only about a 1/8" diameter. I guess that's the way it was made but I question the fuel flow thru it. When I tested it for fuel flow it took 1 minute 45 sec. to fill a pint jar. So I drilled the 1/8 hole to 9/64 whick is about as big as I dare go. retested and it took approx. a minute to fill pint jar so I guess I have improved fuel flow. A few pics to follow
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Double o ring pic
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The double o ring actually works pretty good
 
RickB, I agree! Removing the tank is a lot of work. In fact, I'm at a stand still right now with replacing my old shutoff valve with a new one. Thought I'd be able to slip the old one out, and shove the new one up into the tank--easy peasy, right? Not so fast....there's not enough clearance between the bottom of the tank and the valve cover to slip the fuel shutoff valve out (see picture).
This resulted in me starting to remove the tank, but I'm finding out that the process of even removing the hood to get to the tank is a pain in the butt (there are a ton of bolts/screws that are tough to access, and it's looking like the headlamps on the sides of the hood will be a problem as well).
Has anyone ever replaced the fuel shutoff valve? What am I missing here? I wouldn't think it'd be that difficult, which leads me to believe I'm missing an easier way here. I'd really like to avoid pulling the entire tank if I can. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom, 861 Ford Powermaster
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Tom, have you tried removing the fuel line to see if that would give more room to maneuver? You may also consider removing the valve cover.
 

Hi nashranch, just exactly what is the thread size on that brass hose nipple you have in the pics? The valve is a 5/16 Inverted Flare. I had tried to find a 5/16 I.F. to 1/4" hose barb but no luck.
 
(quoted from post at 20:45:07 12/28/20)
Hi nashranch, just exactly what is the thread size on that brass hose nipple you have in the pics? The valve is a 5/16 Inverted Flare. I had tried to find a 5/16 I.F. to 1/4" hose barb but no luck.

Looks like 1/4 pipe to me. I really don't remember
 

Take the hood loose at the front don't remember if I did at the back
take fuel tank mounting bolts out lift tank and wedge a board between the tank and valve cover the valve will come out.
 
I have read that it would be easier to remove the valve cover by rolling it out to give you more clearance. I am going to attempt that this spring as I have rather large hands and when I did it years ago, I remember it was very difficult to do. It might work for you.
 
What Dollar Bill said. Remove the fuel line first and the valve should come out then. It always has for me. Might have to maneuver a little but it should come out.
 

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