7000 Creeping foward

jsp5755 · Dec 23, 2020

7000 would creep forward sometimes when the clutch was depressed. Spilt tractor. Input shaft has a bad groove. Picture should be with this message. The inner
race of the pilot bearing does not touch the input shaft at this groove. The pilot bearing was hard to turn. Is this worn input shaft and pilot bearing causing
the tractor to creep forward with the clutch depressed?

Note I also posted this using Modern View. Posting again since it does NOT show up on the old style view.

Here is link to the original post. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=687973

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Bern · Dec 23, 2020

Yep, you found the problem, a seized pilot bearing, as I suspected. The shaft really needs to be replaced, or, if you can't find one new or used, you'll need to take it to a machine shop to have it built up and turned back down to size.

jsp5755 · Dec 23, 2020

Thanks for the reply. Regarding replacement. The repair manuals for the 7000 has a procedure for setting the pre-load on the input shaft bearings. I have included the procedure as a picture. The way I read that this requires the transmission and rear end being separated. Thoughts? This required with new shaft? What if I have the existing shaft repaired?

MikeJM · Dec 23, 2020

Or you can do what I did 15ish years ago on our 5000. Same thing happened.

Clean the end of the input shaft up, get a good quality metal loaded epoxy and apply enough in the worn area to have some excess, then file and sand it down till the diameter is the same as the unworn area and the pilot bearing slides on.

jsp5755 · Dec 23, 2020

I have been thinking about going the JB weld route. I have found the shaft online. It is $90. Not sure if it is used or new. These new aftermarket parts are
always scary....quality? etc. Anybody know a good source of aftermarket parts?

SkipperII · Dec 23, 2020

I agree with Mikejm, build it up with metal filled epoxy and file it down, fit it to a new bearing, and away you go. It won't hurt a thing.

Bern · Dec 23, 2020

The bearing preload adjustment discussed in the manual applies to main shaft #12, not the input shaft #8. You don't have to worry about it. Remove snap ring #7 and slide shaft out.

jsp5755 · Dec 23, 2020

I have not removed the shaft yet. Got question about #2 gasket behind #1 clutch release bearing support. From the manual it seems shims are used where #2 gasket is located for the 7000. Is a gasket also used behind bearing support #1? If yes, then can I use silicone and no gasket?

Bern · Dec 23, 2020

If you look in the parts book (link below), you'll note that the gasket is only used on a 5000. Shims are used with a 7000, along with an o-ring (listed between #12 & 13) for sealing. Do not add or remove anything that would affect the distance (i.e. shim pack) between the bearing retainer and the front plate.
Shims

jsp5755 · Dec 23, 2020

How much oil must be drained if remove only throw out bearing support? 7000 rear end and transmission same sump?

Bern · Dec 23, 2020

None and yes.

hurleyjd · Dec 23, 2020

This is expensive but would be better than JB weld
titanium past

catalina0029 · Dec 25, 2020

I would consider having it spray welded. I wouldn't want to split it again.

It doesn't cost anything to ask.

https://republicdiesel.com/machine-shop-services/spray-welding/

jsp5755 · Dec 28, 2020

The new holland web site parts diagram has a plug #5 & gasket #8. I do not see these anywhere on my tractor. Where these parts go? Required for all models? I can see #7 seal in the throw out bearing housing/shaft...which seals the front of the transmission.

7000 Creeping foward

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