I have the axle out, but I can't figure out how to get the backing plate and hub apart to replace the outer seal and clean the whole thing up. Been leaking for years. Can someone help me on how to disassemble this hub? I have the studs tapped out and that seemed to loosen things up, but still can't get it apart.

Thanks in advance.

The 20ton press had no problems pressing the shaft thru the collar and bearing. So, now I'll clean it up and wait on new parts to arrive. Will post pictures later.

Update:

After 4 attempts, the collar is holding strong.
Hole #1: Cobalt drill bit broke off in the hole and I can't extract.

Hole #2: Broke the punch/chisel off in the hole, can't extract.

Hole #3: Broke the punch/chisel off in the hole, can't extract.

Hole #4: Drilled larger and larger until I now have a 5/8" diameter hole and I still cant bust the collar. Collar is VERY thin on the 2 sides but can't bust it for the life of me. Going to put it in neighbor's press and see what happens. It has to be weak enough at this point.

Will do. Plan on using a punch to make a mark so drill bit doesn't wander. Small hole then a larger bit.

Dean I know I have done'em they had a seal a true seal...

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Makes sense I will check that out on the next one.

To get the old collar off, I'll just drill a hole in it and split it.

That's how it's done but not as easy as it sounds. The collar is a little more than an inch thick. Drill at a 10 degree angle from the shaft and start where the flat surface meets the radiused corner. 3/8 drill. Then split it with a chisel.

I replaced my seals on a 3 cyl. 2000. Made up a puller based on the NuDay tool shown in the manual. Manual calls for 750 deg. on the collar. I borrowed a tempstick from work and use a torch. It heated past blue to gray, no red, and dropped right on. You should hold it down against the bearing till it grabs. Collar is about .004 undersize as I recall and the shaft is taper ground .002 with the small end toward the bearing so it really holds once it's on. I can send you dimensions for the puller if you want. Email is open.

What i bought from Yesterday's Tractors is a proper seal.

i picked up a little toaster oven at a garage sale for heating bearing and stuff. it worked great on the axle bearing retainers. i think i set it to 400 and left them for a hour or so.

I always heated them on a Ford tractor, for the record some makes its pressed on...

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

And if you like good brakes you will go after it...
A good torch man can cut the bearing out BUT it will cost ya a bearing : (...

I made a tool to do it...
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1461337&highlight=drawing

Sometimes you bite the bullet and take it to someone that's tooled up for the job... As crafty as I am a Toyota axle I take them to the dealer. They are a strange animal I measure it out and check the measurements when I pick it up. They use two press collars one a seal runs on it has to be dead nuts... I could care less what they charge I want it right...

You're absolutely right. Neighbor is getting his gas bottles refilled so we can have a proper torch. I'll post pics when we do it. Gotta wait on a warmer day though! Brrr!

Water won't work - only gets to 212 degrees. Boiling oil is dangerous. Back in the 70's as a kid, my house caught fire from my Mom boiling oil to make french fries. Read anything on the turkey fryers exploding in people's backyards? Oven is fairly safe, as long as the wife doesn't see me do it :)

Now there's an idea. Anybody tried boiling it in oil or water? Maybe in the oven then tap it on down with a long pipe?

For what it's worth, I did the axle seals on my TO-35 Ferguson. Same design. I put the collars in the oven and heated to 300 degrees. Left them at 300 for about 20 minutes. Dropped the collar on the shaft and tapped it to make sure it was seated properly (it was). It expanded with the heat more than enough. Rather easy. I'll admit I was worried that it wouldn't go on properly and I'd have to drill it again, but it worked.

No problem with the seal. Just have to make up my mind to go all in and do everything right.

Do it correctly or don't do it at all.

BTDT.

Dean

Can this collar be pressed on instead of heated? Anyone ever tried that? Neighbor with the 20 ton press is asking.

Don't do it, It will swell as it is being pressed on and will not stay tight.

Mark

I am replacing the inner seal so that should stop the leaking. May have to try the grease needle trick to see if I can get any into the bearing.

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

I can split the collar and get my neighbor to press off the bearing and press on new bearing, but heating that collar to white hot to get it on is where I hit a snag.

You want to heat the collar only to a dull red before dropping it on. Have a long piece of pipe handy to tap it fully into place if necessary.

If you heat it too hot, it will not stay in place.

Dean

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Any way to get grease to the bearing without going all in on that?

No proper way but you might be able to get some into the bearing with a grease gun (full of wheel bearing grease) and needle adapter.

Moreover, a leaking oil seal washes any remaining grease from the bearing.

Dean

The oil seal is in the axle trumpet.

The outer seal is not a true seal at all but rather lip to help prevent axle bearing grease from migrating to the brakes.

The collar must be removed in order to replace the outer "seal" and pack the wheel bearing, which, no doubt, has not been packed in decades. The collar cannot be used again so order a new one when you order the inner seal and the outer "seal."

Be advised that many (most?) dealer techs do not know how to properly remove and replace the collar and can damage both the axle and bearing by using improper technique. Knowing this, I copied the relevant pages from the Ford shop manual before taking my 860 axle to my dealer about 15 years ago to replace the outer "seal" and pack the bearing. I gave the service manager specific and direct instructons to not allow anyone to cut the collar off with a torch and provided the copied pages showing proper technique. Of course, the "mechanic" cut the collar with a torch ruining a perfectly good bearing and axle in the process.

Dealership would not even give me a discount from list price for a new (unneeded) bearing and (used) axle.

It is for reasons such as this that I avoid dealership shops like the plague.

Dean

The outer seal is as much a conventional lip seal as any other.

Actually it is not (at least not the ones supplied by CNH parts 10 years ago).

Take another look. Simply a round neoprene (?) disc with a hole in the middle. No spring, no lip....

It would not seal oil in any event because the steel plate to which it mounts is sandwitched between the backing plate and through bolts without any gaskets or sealant.

Dean

I had a machine shop replace a bearing on a Buick rear axle once and the press operator didn't use the correct die and scored the axle. Had problems with that axle/bearing/seal for as long as I owned the car.... do that myself now when the necessity arises.

Sometime around 1990, I decided to replace the output shaft seal in my Dunham 5' rotary cutter, the best 5' cutter that I have ever owned, BTW.

It was necessary to bore the housing to install a standard sized seal as the special CR seal used as OEM equipment was no longer available. Trust me, I called CR.

Boring the housing required that the gearbox be completely disassembled, which required press work so I took it to a machine shop to disassemble the gearbox and bore the housing.

Upon returning to pick up the gearbox, the shop owner told me that "something had slipped in the press." As a result the input shaft now had a deep gouge in it where the input shaft seal was positioned.

Upon research, I learned that the company that made the rather unusual (no viable substitutes) gearbox was long out of business and parts were not available.

Shop owner recommended a speedy sleeve, which he sold to me at full list price.

Though the gearbox was usable afterward, the input shaft always leaked if the gearbox was filled to recommended level, though it had never leaked before. Oil was migrating between the speedy sleeve and the shaft contaminating the slip clutch.

After about 5 years of frustration, I replaced it with a new 5' cutter which I like much less well.

Obviously, I never returned to that shop, which is now long-since outy of business.

Dean

What was ironic about the machine shop is that they had just given my son, fresh out of high school, an apprenticeship. Never knew if he was the one to goof.

You just didn't go to the right dealer Dean. The dealership I work for has all the proper tools and know how to do them correctly. The dealership started selling 8Ns in 1948 and we have most all of the special tools to repair the older tractors. This is our last year as a New Holland dealer as we have done so well with Kubota tractors and it kept getting more and more difficult to sell the New Hollands.

Mark

The dealership that I visited at the time also had the proper drill jig to drill and split the collar (checked before trusting my assembly to them).

Unfortunately, the service manager and "mechanic" simply did not care to follow my instructions or to read my printed material. I did the other axle myself.

Yes, they sell Kubota as well (all 3 stores) and I expect that they will drop NH in the foreseeable future.

Dean

The last time I checked my dealer was pretty reasonable on doing just the axle and he has the right tools. Give one a call and check the price.

Well, after some deterrent comments I have to agree with y'all. I don't know how many times I have had to fix another mechanic's work because they did it their way. There is only one way to do something right, otherwise it misses the mark. I like the shop's now where you can actually watch the work on camera.

Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

The collar that holds the bearing on the shaft is a shrink fit and must be split to loosen it. Then it needs to be pressed apart to get the bearing off the shaft.

Mark