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More help w/ 860 double clutch replacement

J

JeffG in WI

Member
Thanks to everyone for the help so far. I really appreciate it!

So I have everything cleaned up, the two input shaft seals replaced, a new throwout and pilot bearing, and the double clutch is installed.

But now I can't get the tractor back together. Is there a trick to doing this without breaking the new clutch? I have the two halves about 1 inch apart.

I can see through the inspection hole on the bottom that the larger of the two splined shafts is about 1 mm from the larger of the two clutch holes. But if I use bolts to try to bring the tractor halves together, the shaft binds without going in the hole properly.

Is it best to assemble with the clutch pedal held down so the clutch disks are free to move around and line up with the input shaft?

Thanks for the help!!!

Jeff
 
First off, are you 100% positive you have
the clutch disc in the right way?
If so, try putting the pto in gear and
rocking it back and forth. You may also
need to put a wrench on the front engine
pully and rock it back and forth.
You have 2 splined shafts that have to mesh
into their respective hubs.
It also Really helps to have the
transmission aligned to the engine.
If you are within an inch you can measure -
side to side and top and bottom.
All 4 measurements need to be within about
1/32" of each other for the input shaft to
neatly slip into the pilot bearing.
Whatever you do don't force it or you'll be
sorry.
 
You should not need to depress the clutch pedal, and I doubt it will help. The disks should have been aligned during assembly, and if the clutch is disengaged before the input shafts are in place the disks can slip out of alignment. But it's unlikely the throwout bearing will contact the clutch fingers before the shafts are in place at any rate.

In addition to lining up the splines, the center shaft has to slide into the pilot bearing. It may be necessary to slightly raise or lower the transmission or engine to get them to mate.
 


Have you been turning the PTO shaft? Did you level the bottom of the block before separating? If one part is going uphill the alinement changes every 1/8 inch.
 
I find it is helpful to get 2 long bolts the same size as the bolts that hold the 2 halves together. Cut the heads
off and use them as alignment dowels.
 
Thanks for the advice!

I think everything is lined up correctly, but the clutch came as an assembled unit, and I don't have a jig for it to make sure both discs are lined up with the pilot bearing hole.

Looking through the inspection hole on the bottom, I can see that the larger of the two splined shafts is about 1mm from the opening of the disc with the splined hole. I forgot to measure ahead of time, but does this mean the leading edge of the input shaft is already in the pilot bearing, or not necessarily?

Also on the input shaft, is the smaller of the two splined shafts the pto input?

Thanks again!
Jeff
 
Since nobody else responded, I'll make a couple of guesses. It's been 20 years since I split my tractor, so my memory is a bit hazy.

I suspect your shaft has not yet entered the pilot bearing. If you can recall how long the pilot portion of your input shaft is, just compare that with the gap between the engine and transmission and you'll get a pretty good idea if the shaft is started in the pilot bearing or not. If the pilot shaft is lined up, the splines will probably align themselves.

The outer input shaft is the PTO shaft.
 
Finally! The 860 is back together and working. Thank you, thank you, thank you to all who helped!

Taking off the little plate with 4 bolts on the bottom of the tractor is very helpful for being able to line up the input shaft with the clutch.

Also, although it took some getting used to when I first got this tractor, I have really liked the dual clutch, 5-speed transmission with it's strange shift pattern, even with a worn out clutch.

But now that the clutch is replaced, working properly, and the pedal is adjusted properly, it is really really nice!

Thanks again!
Jeff
 
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