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Ford 8000 hydraulics

Josh M.

Josh M.

Member
Location
Northeast Ohio
Pulled the hydraulic pump out of my 8000 on Sunday, it’s safe to say
I wasn’t having an issue with a pickup tube o-ring. The gears for the
hydraulic pump had worn into the housing a good 16th of an inch and
most of the bushings had multiple cracks in them, pto piggyback
pump had a lot of wear as well. New pump is on order but I’m
wondering how the internal filter (number 4 in the diagram) comes
out so I can replace the 3 pickup tube o-rings while I’m in there,
should it just slide off the tube? Also the number 3 o-ring on the
diagram that seals one of the outputs on the pump was completely
missing, I’m not sure if ford used a reddish color RTV sealant from
the factory but I know the o-ring didn’t fall off because there was a
tiny glob of the RTV in part of the cutout for the o-ring. As far as I
know the tractor has never had any hydraulic work done to it so I’m
not sure if it was missing from the factory or not.
cvphoto68031.jpg


cvphoto68032.jpg
 
Your tractor somehow missed the recall for the filter update. Your pump looks as if it starved for oil. The missing o ring could have been the culprit. You don't want RTV anywhere it could be induced into the hydraulic system. I always used a light grease or vaseline to lubricate the o rings. The tubes pull out after removing the mounting bolts. Everything in the parts window that includes the large filter #35 was included in a factory recall to upgrade to an external filter. I did many of these installations in the mid 1970's.
 
I would agree that he missed the recall. I don't think I've ever seen an 8000 without the external suction filter.

To Josh: I don't know if you can pull that filter out or not without splitting it. I've never laid eyes on one.
 
I agree with Bern. I think a split between the rear end and the tranny is in order. Not saying it can't be done but, getting everything back in proper alignment for pump and manifold installation would be a pill.
 
From the looks of it the metal canister is just pressed onto the pickup tube so I was hoping I could just slide it off. You made a good point about lining the pump back up too the tube, I might be able to just put the pump on the tube and then bolt the pump to the valve assembly after. I don’t want to accidentally catch the o-ring on the edge of the tube and tear it. That whole valve assembly is pretty heavy so I’m sure it’s going to be a pain either way.
 
I have a 8000 that was not supposed to have the recall done to it (serial number was too early?). The dual power went out and while it was at the dealer we had the recall installed. Wonder if he could find a salvage tractor with this recall and put it on his tractor. Seems there was a template to drill the holes in the case.
 
Josh, It has been 40 years since i did one of these pump replacements without splitting the tractor. But i seem to recall using bolts with the hex heads cut off to align the manifold and pump and then slide everything inward to mate with the tubes. The remotes mounted to the manifold make it hard to handle. You need all the clearance you can get between the tire and the side of the tractor you can get. Everything needs to slide together gently to avoid misalignment. "No pulling with mounting bolts" No room for error in the guessing game working like that.
 
To the best of my knowledge all of the tractors sold without this external filter were supposed to be brought back in to have the updated work performed. But, i am sure some did not get this done. I did many of these myself. Done correctly this involved updating the brake disc on the tractor, cleaning and flushing the hydraulic system and installing the filtration parts. A templet came in the kit to use for the hole locations to be drilled for mounting the filter manifold. The material the brake disc used for lining was what lead up to all this to be done. It contaminated the hydraulic oil and with no filtration system took out the pump and other parts in the system. I am sure salvage yards still have some of these tractors around with the parts available to install the filter. However they may be hard to find.
 
All 8000 and 9000 tractors qualified for the recall, and even the early 86/9600 models as well. It ended up becoming factory-installed during the 86/9600 run.

With the introduction of the 87/9700 models, this same inlet filter was moved to the RH side of the tractor.
 


Another incentive for splitting is to clean the sludge out. I have seen a strong half inch of dirt sludge on the bottom of the hydraulic housing.
 
The recall was for tractors that a pump failure within 6 mo's of the update program. New pump, brakes ,and external filter. Tractors that pulled wide equipment 24' and didn't use the brakes pumps would last a long time. We had a 68 model 8000 put 2 pumps in 5000 hours pulling 8 row wide mounted eq. Tractors pulling 6 row wide eq pump lasted about 3-400 hours brake material would eat or fill everything pto packs DP packs and pumps after the update all good.
 
It can be done without the split did one and added the filter 40 years ago. you need templet to drill the holes for the filter. It's easier with the split, the pto pack probably full of the brake material that ate the pump.
 
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