FORD 3000 PARKING BRAKE RATCHET/PAWL ALIGNMENT

nozz

New User
The brake ratchet/pawl are not lining up on my tractor. If I reach under they will, but that is no help in the field or on a slope. Have not taken it apart, but the play in the linkage suggest wear on the pawl lever or needing an extra washer, Anyone here dea with this and have any recommendations? Thanks![/img:6d025f6a88]
 
nozz,

A few years ago I replaced the parking brake pawl on my Ford 2000. Like yours, it didn't line up well with the brake pedal. I added a washer next to
the pawl to get it into alignment with the brake pedal. It has worked fine ever since. I think you are right on with your diagnosis.

Tom in TN
 
Thanks, did you just add the washer, or replace the oawl as well? Trying to conserve dollars wherever possible!


 
I did the same thing as Tom on mine. Play with different thickness washers till it lines up good without too much side play and put a good fitting pin in the hole. (or is it a snap ring, don't remember) Mine still will release on its own when I
let up the clutch, though. I think it's worn enough so it doesn't catch good.
 
Nozz,

I was in the process of replacing the pawl because it was worn badly enough that it wouldn't consistently hold the parking brake. One other thing you
might look at is whether or not the teeth on the pawl and/or the teeth on the brake pedal are plugged up with crud or with paint. I only have old, used
tractors that I bought as old, used tractors. A lot of them have been painted by previous owners and they end up with paint built up all over them,
including in the teeth of the pawl and/or brake pedal.

Good luck with your project.

Tom in TN
 
Thank you. I will get into it and see what's going on. Clean up is a good idea. If it is wallered out, I may get it metallized to fit more snugly ...

-=jn
(quoted from post at 18:37:19 12/08/20) Nozz,

I was in the process of replacing the pawl because it was worn badly enough that it wouldn't consistently hold the parking brake. One other thing you
might look at is whether or not the teeth on the pawl and/or the teeth on the brake pedal are plugged up with crud or with paint. I only have old, used
tractors that I bought as old, used tractors. A lot of them have been painted by previous owners and they end up with paint built up all over them,
including in the teeth of the pawl and/or brake pedal.

Good luck with your project.

Tom in TN
 
If I remember correctly I shimmed mine to get it to engage better. I also used my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to dress the teeth so it stays engaged.
 
Is the shaft holding the pawl that sticks out at 90 degrees from the tractor bent at all? My 4100 had the same issue, I tweaked the slightly bent shaft and it works perfectly.
 
My '65 had a sloppy fit between where it mounted to the running board. I put a piece of ¼" steel plate under it and attached to the RB and it works
better.

I like the Dremel tool dressing idea and next time I think of it I'll do the same to mine as it could use a bit more proof of engagement. My 3910, being '88
rather than '65 year of origin has a longer shaft on the T handle and a raised U shaped bracket attached to the running board, raising the lever some 2-
3". Makes it a heck of a lot better to get to sitting in the seat. Thought about modifying my 3000 with a fab bracket and lengthened shaft......just may do
that this winter.
 
Ford 2000; 3 cyl gasser; 4/1....my tractor was missing the parking brake handle and rod so I made one as you see in the attached picture. The pawl was still in place under the foot platform. Made the rod longer and ran it thru an angle attached to one of the bolts of the transmission housing to get it up higher to my knee. It works fine but does not have the twist-to-lock feature of the original handle. Only regret is that I didn't make the rod longer so I don't have to bend over quite so far, a problem for those of us with a big belly.
mvphoto66587.jpg
 
So how do you release it......push the brake harder while pulling up then let go of the handle then release the brake.
 
Yes, I press the brakes enough that the pawl disengages and push the handle down. Certainly not as secure as the original twist and turn technique but, so far, the pawl has not disengaged unless I meant it to.

Should have said....to engage the pawl, I pull up slightly while pressing the brakes. I usually have both brake petals linked with the sliding bolt so that they act as one brake.
 

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