procecures to remove the differential plug ford 3000

ejensen

Well-known Member
We have tried many things. Want to drain the differential and add new fluid. Working on the hydraulics for the three point.
Have used heat, the plug has a square head, vice grips, pipe wrench. Concerned about taking the corners off the plug then
we will have a round head on the plug.

Would like to know any suggestions other have to remove the plug. Last resort would be to drill it out then use a a cape
chisel.
Have never seen sockets with squares.
Sockets we have are 6 and 12 points.
 
According to the parts catalog it appears to be a standard 3/4" pipe plug.

The common dimension across the flats of the head of a 3/4' pipe plug is 5/8".

If you measure it and that is correct there's all sorts of sources for a 5/8" square socket. I would think about any auto parts store would have one or be able to quickly get one, or a tool truck vendor should have them.

Below is a link to one on Amazon.
Socket
 

If it gets to the point that the flats are rounding off, the standard procedure is to use a pipe wrench held in place by a block of wood and a bottle jack so that you can put a cheater pipe on the wrench. Have your replacement plug handy.
 
You say you "used heat", but what did you actually do? If you heat that plug cherry red with an oxyacetylene torch, it WILL come out. Propane or MAPP won't get it hot enough. Heating the casting rather than the plug won't work, either.
 
wore out,

Thank you. I have been working and restoring farm tractors for 45 years. It always amazes me how much knowledge and actual "hands on " people on the forum such as You have. Additionally members willingness to share information is great. Best to You and thanks.
Chris
 
MarkB_WI

Thanks for the reply. I live in Seattle and my friend with the ford 3000 lives in the San Juans. He generally brings things to my place and I help him. Have been trying to help Bill by phone as he doesn't have email. He said he was going to use his propane torch told him to use his oxy acetylene torch. He is not sure about using his oxyacetyene torches.
Chris
 
> Heating anything that is being simultaneously cooled by oil is not usually effective.

True, the boiling point of oil (~600F) is a couple of hundred degrees less than what the plug needs to be heated to. There is also a risk of igniting the oil. But when the only other option is to drill and re-tap, it's certainly worth a try. I've had success the couple of times I've tried it.
 
whatever you use, put a jack under it and put some upward pressure on it. When the tool starts trying to slip, it starts moving down. If you can prevent that, your tool is much more likely to work. BTDT
 
welding man,
Good idea. I only have a stick welder. Would think a wire feed welder would be best for welding a nut on the plug
Thanks,

Chris
 
Welding man,
Thank you. I have several of the old style “tombstone” welders and a new DC inverter welder. It is a very light 60 %duty cycle machine
Thanks for sharing information. I can carry my inverter welder in one hand. Chris
 
welding man,

Have included a picture of my shop. Pete Welty, professional welder, was helping me attach a bobcat 12 inch bucket to my 1957 case 320. The green welder is my DC inverter 60 percent duty welder. It is very light and works well. Pete used it to attach the connections to the bucket .

cvphoto65852.jpg

Would use the green welder to attach the nut to the drain plug for my friend's 300 ford tractor
 

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