I have a 1955 ford 600/640 with a 134 cu.in. engine. The original Marvel Schribe carb. was in bad shape. I've ordered 2 new replacement TSX580 carbs, both made in China and neither one seems to want to work. Float levels are okay and I get plenty of gas into the carb. The power adjustmnet does not seem to work and It's hard to gert the engine to even run. Must be something wrong with the jet Any Ideas? I hate to buy another carb if it's going to be the same problem
 
Timing? Valves? Tune up? Seems odd that
3 different carbs have same issue. Heck
I've got a $40 Amazon carb on a cub and
it runs like a champ........
 
We had a tractor that ran like crap.....
Couldn't figure it out. Finally replaced
the rats nest if wires......problem
solved. Can be that easy
 
(quoted from post at 06:31:57 12/03/20) Timing? Valves? Tune up? Seems odd that
3 different carbs have same issue. Heck
I've got a $40 Amazon carb on a cub and
it runs like a champ........

The tractor ran fine until I started with the Carb. My timing is correct as are the valve adjustments. Ran fine on the first new Carb for about an hour then started up acting like it was out of gas.
The 2nd new Carb, It tries to start but won't keep on running. I've checked both float levels and both are good and there is plenty of gas in the Carb. It just won't keep on running. I even thought about an intake manifold leak but then again why does it start and run for a moment and then acts up.
 
I read in a previous forum about the China made carbs being a hit and miss situation. It was suggest to not buy these as if you do you might find a lucky one.
 
Try making one good one out of all three. e.g., use the power jet needle from original, etc. You might get lucky.
 
(quoted from post at 13:14:00 12/03/20) Try making one good one out of all three. e.g., use the power jet needle from original, etc. You might get lucky.

I still jhad the orig. cast iron carb. and a gasket set. I removed all removal parts and did a thorough cleaning. I didn't have a new needle and seat and didn't check if the ones in the aluminum Carbs would fit. The old one seemed to work I cleaned the points and reset the gap. It started right up and ran for a while then started to do the same thing. You think I should replace the condensor. I looked at the electronic ignition system too but I use this tractor so seldom its hard to justify the cost.
 

I still had the orig. cast iron carb and a gasket kit for it. I took it completely apart and cleaned every part including the jets and vanes. I didn't have a new seat/needle but the old one seamed to work. I didn't check to see if the needle/seat from the 2 aluminum (China made) carbs. would interchange. I removed the points and cleaned them and reset the gap. It started right up and ran for awhile then started the same problem. I wondering could it be the condensor?
 
(quoted from post at 17:55:18 12/04/20) Worth trying the condenser.......and
coil. Coil will get hot and tractor with
quit.
I've ordered a set of points, condenser and rotor and a rotor clip that was missing plus a Carb kit and a new ignition switch from YT
If it still does the same thing all I have left is the coil..
 
The round can coils normally do not get hot that quick.
Easy enough to hold your hand near it and see if it's hot.
The aftermarket carbs may work for a while. Some have been good.

I have found that the not all of the parts are the same in the
aftermarkets, so sometimes a rebuild kit does not fit/fix them.

If you don't want the original MS carb, I'd be interested in it.
If you want it rebuilt, tested and adjusted, I can do that too.
But I don't do it for free.
 
(quoted from post at 07:33:14 12/05/20) Keep us posted on how it turns out.
Always like to hear the solution. Thanks.
Maybe start a new post.
Okay will do. This tractor has been converted to a 12 volt system. But there is no resister beteen the batteery/ ampmeter and the coil. I'll need to see if the coil has a built in resister to reduce volts to the dist. I've done so many conversions on 9N, 8N's and others and always had to install a resister to the coil.
 
I messed with this tractor today and checking the coil, there is not a single marking on except + or -. This tractor has been converted from 6 volt to 12 volts. There is no Resistor any where. Most I've delt with had a Resistor between the Ignition switch and the coil unless the coil has a built in resistor. What are you thoughts? Should I install a resistor?
 
I messed with this tractor some today and removed the coil. There is not a single marking on it except the -&+ by the two terminals. There is no resistor in the ignition line between the ampmeter, switch and the coil so its getting a full 12 violts to the coil. I don't know if this coil has a built in resistor or should I install a resistor between the switch and the coil? What are your thoughts?
 
I leave the resistor out and use a NAPA IC14SB or equivalent coil.
No external resistor needed. About $15 around here.
 
Modern coils do not have an actual resistor inside. They have different internal resistance due to differences in the type, gauge and number of windings of the wire on the primary side of the coil. A coil designed for a 6 volt system, which can be used with an external resistor in a 12 volt system should measure approximately 1.5 ohms. A coil made for a 12 volt system, with no external resistor required, should measure around 3 ohms.
 
(quoted from post at 19:39:51 12/10/20) Modern coils do not have an actual resistor inside. They have different internal resistance due to differences in the type, gauge and number of windings of the wire on the primary side of the coil. A coil designed for a 6 volt system, which can be used with an external resistor in a 12 volt system should measure approximately 1.5 ohms. A coil made for a 12 volt system, with no external resistor required, should measure around 3 ohms.
Thanks Sean, I removed my coil this morning and using my Craftsman digital Multimeter, I get a reading of 1.4 Ohms. This must be a 6 volt coil. So running 12 volts into it without a resistor could be my problem. I read that a 12 volt coil w/o a resistor should read 3.0 ohms. 4.0 is best. I also read that on a 12 volt system less than 3.0 to use a resistor. So Do I need to add a resistor? I have a .6 ohm ballast resistor, will this work?
 
Thanks Grandpa love, I must be a Great Grandpa. I removed my coil this morning and using my Craftsman digital Multimeter set at 200 ohms i get a reading of 1.4 ohms. This must be a 6 volt coil as I read that a 6 volt coil should be .5 to 1.0 with a best at 2.2 ohms. A 12 volt coil should read 1.0 to 3.5 best at 4.0. A 12 volt system with less than 3.0 to use a resistor. A 12volt coil without a resistor should be at 3.0 ohms. Since there is no resistor on my tractor and a full 12 volts is going into this coil, do I need to add a resistor?
 
(quoted from post at 13:30:16 12/11/20)
(quoted from post at 19:39:51 12/10/20) Modern coils do not have an actual resistor inside. They have different internal resistance due to differences in the type, gauge and number of windings of the wire on the primary side of the coil. A coil designed for a 6 volt system, which can be used with an external resistor in a 12 volt system should measure approximately 1.5 ohms. A coil made for a 12 volt system, with no external resistor required, should measure around 3 ohms.
Thanks Sean, I removed my coil this morning and using my Craftsman digital Multimeter, I get a reading of 1.4 Ohms. This must be a 6 volt coil. So running 12 volts into it without a resistor could be my problem. I read that a 12 volt coil w/o a resistor should read 3.0 ohms. 4.0 is best. I also read that on a 12 volt system less than 3.0 to use a resistor. So Do I need to add a resistor? I have a .6 ohm ballast resistor, will this work?

Running a 6 volt coil in a 12 volt system without an external resistor will work, and can actually induce a stronger spark because more current will flow through the primary, but it will burn up the points in short order. Coils are designed to strike a balance between the strength of spark being delivered and the life expectancy of the points. I would either add a ballast resistor or replace the coil with a true 12 volt coil and then replace the points.
 
(quoted from post at 12:03:51 12/11/20)
(quoted from post at 13:30:16 12/11/20)
(quoted from post at 19:39:51 12/10/20) Modern coils do not have an actual resistor inside. They have different internal resistance due to differences in the type, gauge and number of windings of the wire on the primary side of the coil. A coil designed for a 6 volt system, which can be used with an external resistor in a 12 volt system should measure approximately 1.5 ohms. A coil made for a 12 volt system, with no external resistor required, should measure around 3 ohms.
Thanks Sean, I removed my coil this morning and using my Craftsman digital Multimeter, I get a reading of 1.4 Ohms. This must be a 6 volt coil. So running 12 volts into it without a resistor could be my problem. I read that a 12 volt coil w/o a resistor should read 3.0 ohms. 4.0 is best. I also read that on a 12 volt system less than 3.0 to use a resistor. So Do I need to add a resistor? I have a .6 ohm ballast resistor, will this work?

Running a 6 volt coil in a 12 volt system without an external resistor will work, and can actually induce a stronger spark because more current will flow through the primary, but it will burn up the points in short order. Coils are designed to strike a balance between the strength of spark being delivered and the life expectancy of the points. I would either add a ballast resistor or replace the coil with a true 12 volt coil and then replace the points.
The P/N On the resistor I have is 8NE10306 and is used in the converion from 6 volt to 12 volt system.
 
That 8N at the beginning of the part number indicated to me that it is probably for a Ford 8N so I did a quick quick Google search on the part number and it looks like it is used when converting an 8N with the earlier style front mounted distributor with the coil built in to the distributor from 6 to 12 volts, and those front mount distributors with the built-in coil already had a resistor inside the coil, not like a modern coil, and the full 8N conversion requires a new coil plus the external 0.8 ohm resistor, so I don't think that's going to work properly in a 600 series 12 volt conversion. You need a standard automotive 1.5 ohm ballast resistor. Go to NAPA or Pep Boys or Advance Auto, or whatever your local auto parts store is, and ask for a ballast resistor for a 1968 Dodge Dart with a 225 ci slant six engine, or just about any other Mopar or GM vehicle of that time period.
 
(quoted from post at 15:31:42 12/11/20)
(quoted from post at 12:03:51 12/11/20)
(quoted from post at 13:30:16 12/11/20)
(quoted from post at 19:39:51 12/10/20) Modern coils do not have an actual resistor inside. They have different internal resistance due to differences in the type, gauge and number of windings of the wire on the primary side of the coil. A coil designed for a 6 volt system, which can be used with an external resistor in a 12 volt system should measure approximately 1.5 ohms. A coil made for a 12 volt system, with no external resistor required, should measure around 3 ohms.
Thanks Sean, I removed my coil this morning and using my Craftsman digital Multimeter, I get a reading of 1.4 Ohms. This must be a 6 volt coil. So running 12 volts into it without a resistor could be my problem. I read that a 12 volt coil w/o a resistor should read 3.0 ohms. 4.0 is best. I also read that on a 12 volt system less than 3.0 to use a resistor. So Do I need to add a resistor? I have a .6 ohm ballast resistor, will this work?

Running a 6 volt coil in a 12 volt system without an external resistor will work, and can actually induce a stronger spark because more current will flow through the primary, but it will burn up the points in short order. Coils are designed to strike a balance between the strength of spark being delivered and the life expectancy of the points. I would either add a ballast resistor or replace the coil with a true 12 volt coil and then replace the points.
The P/N On the resistor I have is 8NE10306 and is used in the converion from 6 volt to 12 volt system.
Skip the resistor, buy the right coil. NAPA is probably higher priced than other parts stores. Have them cross the NAPA number.
 


This sounds strange that you replaced the carburetor when the tractor was running well. Is this the same 640 that had the backfiring problem a year ago?
 
I rebuilt my original carburetor and I don't think this was my problem. I think it turned out to electrical. I replaced the ignition switch, coil, breaker points condensor and installed a resistor as the new coil I bought said I needed a resistor with it. Tractor starts right up and runs well.
The straight 12 volts going into the 6 volt coil and condensor probably fried the coil and condensor over a period of time.
 
(quoted from post at 17:31:50 12/19/20) I rebuilt my original carburetor and I don't think this was my problem. I think it turned out to electrical. I replaced the ignition switch, coil, breaker points condensor and installed a resistor as the new coil I bought said I needed a resistor with it. Tractor starts right up and runs well.
The straight 12 volts going into the 6 volt coil and condensor probably fried the coil and condensor over a period of time.
2v didn't harm the condenser, as it always sees 200 volts when running. Don't believe it,? OK, put one hand on the screw where coil connects to distributor & the other on metal part of tractor. 12v won't make you jump! :idea:
 
(quoted from post at 14:31:50 12/19/20) I rebuilt my original carburetor and I don't think this was my problem. I think it turned out to electrical. I replaced the ignition switch, coil, breaker points condensor and installed a resistor as the new coil I bought said I needed a resistor with it. Tractor starts right up and runs well.
The straight 12 volts going into the 6 volt coil and condensor probably fried the coil and condensor over a period of time.

did you replace the distributor cap?
 
(quoted from post at 17:31:50 12/19/20) I rebuilt my original carburetor and I don't think this was my problem. I think it turned out to electrical. I replaced the ignition switch, coil, breaker points condensor and installed a resistor as the new coil I bought said I needed a resistor with it. Tractor starts right up and runs well.
The straight 12 volts going into the 6 volt coil and condensor probably fried the coil and condensor over a period of time.
Glad to hear you got it running. There's more ways than one to do it.
But as I said, if I had to buy a coil, I'd buy one that didn't need a resistor.
Less connections to corrode and fail, less things to troubleshoot next time.
 

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