Re: Neighbor offered me non running 001 series, with So

mhb@ufe

Well-known Member
Location
Jefferson Maine
The disconnect lever is item #59 in the square labeled as traction clutch. It is on the round cover on the left side of the rear axle housing. It is best to jack up one rear tire to relieve any pressure on the coupling so it will move easier.

Mark
SOS traction clutch
 
When you do it just remove the lever and turn it over. Then when it is disengaged you can put the bolt back in to hold it in the disengaged position.

Mark
 
Will it ordinarly not stay disengaged unless you hold it?

If I'm understanding correctly, that is really really helpful input!
 
(quoted from post at 01:05:53 11/25/20) Will it ordinarly not stay disengaged unless you hold it?

If I'm understanding correctly, that is really really helpful input!

If you don't use the bolt to lock it in place, it may rattle around when you are towing the tractor, and either of 2 things might happen:

1. It may try to go back into the engaged position which could damage somethin.

2. The internal lingkage may come out of place and you will have to open up that round plate to put things back in position in order for the traction disconnect lever to work again.
 
yes to all the advice given so far - the suggestion of jacking a rear wheel while disengaging the traction lock is a good one, I have seen more than one broken side cover/lock tab where I'm guessing a hammer was used to try and disengage the mechanism. Try and be careful not to 'slam' the lock (coupling) into the disengaged position as it can jam against the machining on the transmission output shaft and stick. If that happens the side cover needs removed and a bar used to unstick the coupling.

Then the tension if off the system the traction lock slides very easily.
 
I stand on the foot rest and rock the rear wheel with one hand on a tread bar while pushing gently on the traction disconnect with the other. It usually moves easy within one or two back-and-forth rocks.
 
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So Ill admit that this forum seems to work differently than I thought and somehow two new threads have split off of my original post. (Including this one) Since this is the one discussion is happening in, I posted the photos here as well!

Ill have more photos once I get the wheel fixed and have it out of the neighbors shop.
 
(quoted from post at 12:17:30 11/25/20) I don't know why it split into separate posts but I can see the disconnect lever in your 6th picture.

Mark

Thank you! I can see it also, now that you pointed it out.

My next concern is to make sure I dont hurt the trans once I have it moved and the engine running. I need to test the functionality of the whole machine before I agree to a price.

How do I check trans fluid? If it is low, what kind of fluid do I add?

We are planning to drive it and make sure it goes into all 12 gears, pick up a round bail, and run the brush hog around for a little bit. Assuming it has done these tests successfully then I will buy it and change the fluids and filters in the engine and trans.

Does that plan get the Yesterdays Tractor seal of approval? I feel like Im getting ahead of myself a bit, but I have a helper this weekend and hope to have done all the above steps by Sunday afternoon.
 
There's a pipe plug on the right side of the transmission in front of the foot rest which is the level/fill hole. If you can stick your finger in there and feel fluid I wouldn't worry about adding any. If it needs significant fluid added, that is a data point to note. A fluid from TSC or similar place would be fine, get one that meets '134' standards. These transmissions are tough, I wouldn't worry about hurting it doing what you describe.

There are adjustments. The 'feathering pedal' does not operate with the 'feel' of a clutch. Unless you have experience with one it'll seem awkward.

If you get it and want to change out the fluid then the board can again debate the nuances of modern vs 1960 lubricants.

Be aware that 10th gear is fast for that rig, make sure the tires are inflated properly/in decent condition and be careful.
 

Got it moved today started to diagnose the issues. Sure would have had a rough time figuring out how to disengage the axle without all of you going through it with me.

First issue I found, the coil power wire wasn't hooked to anything.

Second issue I found, if + and - on the coil are correct, then the coil was wired backwards. Unless - just means ground? I've never worked on anything with positive ground before, so I'm getting a bit confused.

Looks like the thing has only counted 470 hours, which is wild.

Also looks like the tires are in worse shape than I'd thought. Three of them hold air, but the fronts are wether checked. That leaky rear.... The rubber looks concerning. I'll post photos and get opinions soon.

The hydraulic hoses for the bucket don't look great either. Whenever I have needed hydrolics hoses with ends for other stuff, seems like they are pretty pricy. o_O

So yeah, making progress. Hope to have it running tomorrow. =]
 
re:coil wire - I see the tractor has an alternator and is therefore negative ground. You should find the wire coming from the ignition switch attached to the + side of the coil and the - should run to the distributor. If the ignition system is in good shape otherwise the machine will run either way, altho some performance issues might be noted at operating temperature and high speed/high power situations.
 
(quoted from post at 23:03:59 11/27/20) re:coil wire - I see the tractor has an alternator and is therefore negative ground. You should find the wire coming from the ignition switch attached to the + side of the coil and the - should run to the distributor. If the ignition system is in good shape otherwise the machine will run either way, altho some performance issues might be noted at operating temperature and high speed/high power situations.

I have questions. When I hook it up with negative ground the starter seems to turn engine seems to turn backwards? Or at least the direction that looks backwards to me?

At this point I'm not super worried about the alternator functioning, I can figure that out once I have the engine running. I could just pull the charge wire off the alternator until then.

from what I understand this alternator was custom made for the eight volt battery, which of course I've heard third or fourth hand by now.
 
According to Google 6v positive ground alternators exist, so I'm back to the idea of removing the wire from the alternator to the battery, then checking the output with a multimeter.
 
Starter doesn't care about positive or negative ground or 6 or 8 or 12 volt (it does care a little bit about voltage obviously, but the same starter is used in this application whether a 6v or 12v setup) It will turn the direction it is wired.

6v positive ground alternators do exist, are rare, and seldom end up on beater loader tractors. The chance of it being a 'custom 8v' unit is vanishing small. There should be some numbers stamped on body of the alternator that you could google which would tell you definitively what it is.

You do not need the charging system to work to start and run the tractor, so indeed you may disconnect the wire.

If I were trying to get this tractor started, I would slide in a 12v battery, remove the spark plugs, shoot 2-3 shots of oil in each cylinder, and crank it until the oil pressure came up. You can check for spark at the same time. While I had the spark plugs out I'd check compression. I'd check the fuel system to make sure gas is filling the carb (remove the plug at the bottom of the carb and allow gasoline to run thru). Put all the pieces into place and try to start. If you have spark and fuel likely it will run.
 

Well, we got it running today. Bypassed most of the wiring, planned to hook that back up after we tested some of the hydrolics and got it into the shop. Carb needs some love, governor seems to stick, and plenty of other minor issues.

While testing though, the main high pressure hydraulic line in front blew.

I'm not sure I'll be able to get a replacement on a Sunday. If we drain the hydraulics will it burn up the pump? This seems to be the high pressure line right off of the pump mounted to the front of the crank.

I was hoping to figure out the wiring and that alternator in the AM.
 

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