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72, 4000 3 point hitch will not lift.

2

270BBR

New User
I have a 1972 Ford 4000. I was clearing snow when the 3 point hitch would only lift about an inch. I remove the blade and if i lift the lift arm using human power the arm will rise and stay up, I sat on the lift arm and it did not drop ( I'm 172 lbs.). The oil level is good.
I have not started to do pressure checks, but was hoping someone may have a this happened with them and have a simple answer .
 
Had something similar with my 68 2000. Main valve had a bit of corrosion since PO did no maintenance and never changed fluid.
Polishing and new O rings fixed my problem. Also, there are 2 filters in the sump...one is paper and if they've not been serviced
the paper one can degrade and clog the suction side filter which is metal screen. If fluid is milky, it's got water in it and needs
changed and perhaps also a flush.
 
It has a gear pump. Everything worked for about 1 1/2 hours then it lowered it and would not lift. I put the tractor in my heat shop over night, it will lift with no load on it. If I stand on the lift arms it will
not lift.
 
This tractor has a gear pump on it independent PTO , after changing the oil I turned the engine over with the coil wire off. The 3 point hitch worked for about 1 1/2 hours before the hitch stop lifting under load. I put the tractor in my heated shop over night. With the engine speed at 1600 RPM the lift arms will lift without a load on it, if I stand on the arms it will not lift. I took the lift cover off. the pipe going from the case ( pump, flow control valve, case) to the lift cover has a slight bend in it. I lifted the lift cover off with the back of it higher than the front to get the relief valve by the case. Seeing this bend I wanted to see if I bent it or if that is normal, I was able to reinstall the lift cover. Is this bend in the pipe normal?
 
Most of the time that I had lift problems on that old of a tractor it was the lift arm piston seal
rings that had just got old and brittle. Take the top off with the arms under the seat and remove
the lift cylinder and change out the piston seal. There are several youtube on this. The seals are
cheap. Good luck
 

The tube is not supposed to be bent but if the top went back on ok you should be ok, When lifting the top off I use a pair of pliers to reach in and work the tube down out of the top.
It sounds like possibly the relief valve is stuck open and it's not building pressure, usually if the control valve is sticking the lift won't work at all or will be slow but still has lifting power, if the piston o-ring is bad the lift will leak back down when you stand on the arms.

Are you using draft or position control, try switching from one to the other.
 
So I replaced the hydrolic supply pipe from the case to the lift cover. I put new seal and backing ring on the lift cylinder piston. Pressure relief valves on the lift cylinder and hydraulic pump changed, new O-rings and gasket.
going from draft to position does not help.
I'm building a pressure test gauge right now to check the pump output pressure as per the manual.
I also have twin remote valves that are capped off, could one of these be passing oil through them?
 

The valve on the end of the lift cylinder is the cylinders safety valve, the main system pressure relief valve is in the hydraulic pump itself, it can be accessed from the outside on the bottom of the pump
 
Got both pressure relief valves installed, did not help.
I'm building a pressure gauge and valve assembly to test the gear hydraulic pump output pressure.
so far I did the following:
-New o-ring and backing ring on the lift cylinder piston.
-New pipe from the pump to the lift cover.
-New O-rings on cover parts and gasket.
-New pressure relief valves.
After I check the pump out put pressure I will see where I should go from there.
Thanks
 
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