Jubilee engine quit, possible charging issue ?

bfonda

Member
Was working the Jubilee hard this weekend helping victims of the hurricane in Pensacola. Tractor worked great for about 6 hours pulling trees logs off of homes. Then suddenly, it just stopped. Tried everything, including pull starting. Nothing.
Thinking it is an electrical issue, once it towed it home I put the battery charger and it only had 30% charge. I charged it up to 50 and it started right up.
If i remember engine mechanics correctly the generator (6V) should be providing the spark and recharging the battery with help from the voltage regulator. How should I troubleshoot the problem to find the culprit or am i missing something?
Otherwise the Jubilee was a beast and a perfect size for this work. it saved alot of backs among my friends helping. If only I could add a front end loader.
 
(quoted from post at 22:25:33 09/28/20) Was working the Jubilee hard this weekend helping victims of the hurricane in Pensacola. Tractor worked great for about 6 hours pulling trees logs off of homes. Then suddenly, it just stopped. Tried everything, including pull starting. Nothing.
Thinking it is an electrical issue, once it towed it home I put the battery charger and it only had 30% charge. I charged it up to 50 and it started right up.
If i remember engine mechanics correctly the generator (6V) should be providing the spark and recharging the battery with help from the voltage regulator. How should I troubleshoot the problem to find the culprit or am i missing something?
Otherwise the Jubilee was a beast and a perfect size for this work. it saved alot of backs among my friends helping. If only I could add a front end loader.
easure battery voltage running & not running & if not a volt or more higher running, then it is not charging. Simple, eh?
 
ALL FORD TRACTORS are great workhorses and offer years of faithful service when given the respect they deserve. How often do you run your tractor? Less than or more than 30 days? Have the battery tested first, and then invest in a Battery Float Charger (Battery Tender Jr. -see below). You van also jump start a 6V battery with your 12V car or truck battery when done the correct way. You don't need to keep dragging the tractor around the yard and you have the power right there at your use. You need a strong battery to:

1. Spin the starter
2. Engage the Bendix
3. Provide voltage to the coil.

Tips on battery care and performance:
As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition. It doesn't really matter much if the battery is "fully charged" until you test it correctly. 4 Volts is an almost dead unit. Bench test under load and specific gravity must be tested. Your trusty local starter/alternator shop can bench test it on their special machine, usually at no charge –no pun intended. No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged and capable of sustaining a full charge under load. Simply connecting a battery charger is not going to do anything if specific gravity is weak or dead. Cheap brands are prone to poor lifespans. The TSC and Wally World ones are the worst. 7 years is a good run for a 6V battery, 10/12 even better. Briefly in a nutshell, you want a GP-1 6V AG battery -no Deep Cycle or RV/Golf Cart types. GRP 25 or 35 for a 12V. I suggest you invest in one of the better brands. Those would be DEKA, INTERSTATE, EAST PENN/DURACELL, or EXIDE. Get at least a 550-750 CCA with the average cost at about $125.

A fully charged 6v battery should read about 6.3 - 6.6 volts. In order to get that charge level, your v/r must allow 7.2 volts to the battery. Specific gravity should be 1.24 - 1.28 on each cell. A hydrometer is used but your shop has the machine to test under load. Battery cables are important too. 6V cables are thick as your thumb due to current used and the ground is a braided flat strap. 12V battery cables are like your car or truck –smaller gauge.

Clean all the grounds & the battery posts. 6V mantra: Clean, bright, and tight.

A float charger is VERY helpful; and NOT a trickle charger, but a float charger, like the DELTRAN Battery Tender Jr.® ™. It is a popular brand, available at Walmart, $30. A battery charger, even a "trickle" charger, left unattended will eventually boil out a battery. Connect the battery Tender to your battery when the tractor is idle for periods over a week. Maintains a full charge for when you need it most. Don’t think just because you put your battery on a charger it is good. The constant draining and recharging I the cause of battery life depleting.

BATTERY TENDER JR (6V) BY DELTRAN:
L6eHxEgh.jpg
ifHyzGdh.jpg

Get the ESSENTIAL MANUALS. OEM OWNER MANUAL, '53-'59 MOC, and I&T FO-19 Manual. Read religiously.


FORD OEM NAA TRACTOR OWNER MANUAL:
helTHXyh.jpg

CLYMER/I&T FO-19 SHOP REPAIR MANUAL – FORD NAA ’53-’54:
NtWeyGoh.jpg

FORD TRACTOR 1939-1953 MPC:
q5zVwUyh.jpg

FORD TRACTOR 1953-1959 MASTER PARTS CATALOG:
vzgJSv5h.jpg


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 

Great post, Tim. Couple weeks back I ran my battery dead, but with no 6V charger available, I jumped it with a 12V vattery between starter and frame ground. Rolled over just fine, but with inadequate battery voltage, no spark,

A good trickle charge on my buddy's charger straightened everything out.

I guess I'll be investing in a float charger.
 
Hi befonda, you asked how to trouble shoot the problem and I didn't see anyone offer too much help except JMOR. It sounds like your tractor's charging system quit during the 6 hours of use helping your neighbors. I don't see how a battery maintainer is going to help with that. Start it up and look at the ammeter. If it is showing a charge, great, if not take make up a short jumper wire and jump from the F terminal to the A terminal on the generator. Look at the ammeter. If it shows a full charge then the generator is working. Take that jumper wire off, don't leave it on. Then check the wires between the generator and voltage regulator. Look for broken, or loose wires. If all looks okay, then I would take the V.R. out and take it to an auto electric shop and have it tested or maybe even fixed. If they can't fix it, good luck on getting a new one that is any good.
 
(quoted from post at 05:23:25 09/29/20) ALL FORD TRACTORS are great workhorses and offer years of faithful service when given the respect they deserve. How often do you run your tractor? Less than or more than 30 days? Have the battery tested first, and then invest in a Battery Float Charger (Battery Tender Jr. -see below). You van also jump start a 6V battery with your 12V car or truck battery when done the correct way. You don't need to keep dragging the tractor around the yard and you have the power right there at your use. You need a strong battery to:

1. Spin the starter
2. Engage the Bendix
3. Provide voltage to the coil.

Tips on battery care and performance:
As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition. It doesn't really matter much if the battery is "fully charged" until you test it correctly. 4 Volts is an almost dead unit. Bench test under load and specific gravity must be tested. Your trusty local starter/alternator shop can bench test it on their special machine, usually at no charge no pun intended. No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged and capable of sustaining a full charge under load. Simply connecting a battery charger is not going to do anything if specific gravity is weak or dead. Cheap brands are prone to poor lifespans. The TSC and Wally World ones are the worst. 7 years is a good run for a 6V battery, 10/12 even better. Briefly in a nutshell, you want a GP-1 6V AG battery -no Deep Cycle or RV/Golf Cart types. GRP 25 or 35 for a 12V. I suggest you invest in one of the better brands. Those would be DEKA, INTERSTATE, EAST PENN/DURACELL, or EXIDE. Get at least a 550-750 CCA with the average cost at about $125.

A fully charged 6v battery should read about 6.3 - 6.6 volts. In order to get that charge level, your v/r must allow 7.2 volts to the battery. Specific gravity should be 1.24 - 1.28 on each cell. A hydrometer is used but your shop has the machine to test under load. Battery cables are important too. 6V cables are thick as your thumb due to current used and the ground is a braided flat strap. 12V battery cables are like your car or truck smaller gauge.

Clean all the grounds & the battery posts. 6V mantra: Clean, bright, and tight.

A float charger is VERY helpful; and NOT a trickle charger, but a float charger, like the DELTRAN Battery Tender Jr. . It is a popular brand, available at Walmart, $30. A battery charger, even a "trickle" charger, left unattended will eventually boil out a battery. Connect the battery Tender to your battery when the tractor is idle for periods over a week. Maintains a full charge for when you need it most. Don t think just because you put your battery on a charger it is good. The constant draining and recharging I the cause of battery life depleting.

BATTERY TENDER JR (6V) BY DELTRAN:
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/L6eHxEgh.jpg"></center>
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ifHyzGdh.jpg"></center>

Get the ESSENTIAL MANUALS. OEM OWNER MANUAL, '53-'59 MOC, and I&T FO-19 Manual. Read religiously.


FORD OEM NAA TRACTOR OWNER MANUAL:
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/helTHXyh.jpg"></center>

CLYMER/I&T FO-19 SHOP REPAIR MANUAL FORD NAA 53- 54:
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/NtWeyGoh.jpg"></center>

FORD TRACTOR 1939-1953 MPC:
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/q5zVwUyh.jpg"></center>

FORD TRACTOR 1953-1959 MASTER PARTS CATALOG:
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/vzgJSv5h.jpg"></center>


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)



Thanks Tim: I use the tractor weekly. Good advice on the battery. I bought this one about six months ago after the last one died. I have not had much luck jumping off a 12V. The first time i tried it, i cooked a battery out of my wifes Suburban. Made sure my battery charger was set up for 6V. Never knew there was such a thing as reverse polarity until i got this tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 09:05:16 09/29/20) Hi befonda, you asked how to trouble shoot the problem and I didn't see anyone offer too much help except JMOR. It sounds like your tractor's charging system quit during the 6 hours of use helping your neighbors. I don't see how a battery maintainer is going to help with that. Start it up and look at the ammeter. If it is showing a charge, great, if not take make up a short jumper wire and jump from the F terminal to the A terminal on the generator. Look at the ammeter. If it shows a full charge then the generator is working. Take that jumper wire off, don't leave it on. Then check the wires between the generator and voltage regulator. Look for broken, or loose wires. If all looks okay, then I would take the V.R. out and take it to an auto electric shop and have it tested or maybe even fixed. If they can't fix it, good luck on getting a new one that is any good.


Jim: Thanks for the detailed response. I'll give it a try.
 

Well, this was not it at all.

Apparently i had a two things fail at the same time. As per above, after the engine quit it would not crank. I wore down the battery trying to restart it.

Recharging the battery several times, i noticed the battery was not holding a charge overnight. Replaced the battery and it fired up momentarily, that indicated a gas issue. Sure enough removed the carb, cleaned all the ports, some of which had grime, probably from a recently replaced rusty gas tank. and not its working great. I think i picked up some HP as well.

Thanks for the help.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top