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Ford 2000 Injector Pump

M

Michaels Dad

Member
Neighbor has a 2000 3 cyl. diesel. The cover shown in the picture appears to have a leak. I tightened up the small cap screws that hold it into place with no effect.
Pulled up the part list and I think "0" ring #30 is the correct part.
Can anyone verify this, and has anyone ever had to replace it. It appears to have a variety of "watch parts" under the cover. Could this be one of the deals where it looks simple until you start to pull the cover and all the parts fall out?
Motor was cold when I found it leaking. After running for about 1/2 an hour the leak turned into to a barely leak, so heating it up made something expand.
Just find it odd that a static "0" ring could start leaking.

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mvphoto62484.jpg
 
Did you mean #20 as opposed to #30? #30 (2 of them) are the crush washers for the banjo fitting for the excess fuel return line. #20 is the large gasket/o-ring for that round rear cover.
 
If I remember you have a place in Utopia. If that’s correct
there’s a really good pump man in Uvalde. McDaniels Diesel
Service’s. I have the phone number if you need it. Tony
 
That is a square sided oring. They do get hard from age. Try to tighten the 4-5/16ths head machine screws that bolt it on. This may help, if not swap out the oring. If
the oring is old enough to start leaking, guess how old the main drive seal is? If you get a little diesel in your oil each time it is used most guys dont even notice
they are making a little oil, or are no longer using a little oil, until its to late and now they are fixing an engine instead of a pump. A pump reseal costs tons less
then engine repair. keep your eye on that dipstick! Al
 
(quoted from post at 22:42:40 09/29/20) If I remember you have a place in Utopia. If that s correct
there s a really good pump man in Uvalde. McDaniels Diesel
Service s. I have the phone number if you need it. Tony
Click to expand...
Yep, got a place in Utopia.
I did have his phone number but somehow misplaced it, so please pass it on.
I did call him a while back, but didn't get to far with him. He doesn't work on equipment anymore, only takes jobs if you bring them in in one hand. Won't work on it if I take the tractor to him. Can't say I was excited to hear that. Had a bad experience on a pump on my son's David Brown. Don't need a repeat on that.
Got one more thing I'd like to run by him, and that is would he consider me bringing the tractor in, me doing the work with his coaching, and him still getting paid his normal shop rate.
Owner lives in Calif. and is only up here from Dec-March. and I'll have to check with him on what he wants to do.
As stated previously I did manage to tighten the small bolts up, but I feel like I've reached the limit on them.
 
Forgot to add, I was really hoping someone here had done this job before, and what all was involved. Can this "0" ring be replace without pulling the pump. There is not much room there, and I know the starter would have to be pulled.
The part that bothers me are the little "watch parts" that are behind the plate. Will they come flying out if I pull the cover off, especially parts #4,13 and 14.
Things like that make me nervous.
 
830-two78-8three2one He is going to want the pump in hand
to work on it. The shop is a walk in building. There’s not a bay
to drive into do tear down and he’s not going to sit in the
parking lot and work on a tractor. Tony
 
Finally found a video on the pump rebuild.
Looks like I'm not going to have to worry about "watch parts" flying out. Didn't know the order of these parts, but the video shows it quite well.
Going to order the flat "0" ring and go for it.

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mvphoto62616.jpg
 
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