3000 diesel fuel filter assembly and starter question

Well I've gone from from working to not 😕. 67 3000 diesel, running and starting fine. I just installed a new gen/fan belt and cranked it to make sure everything was good after. Fuel lift pump was leaking so I installed a new gasket (pump fairly new). So while I was at it, changed fuel filters. Went to bleed it... Nada. Didn't feel like I was getting enough resistance from the priming lever and couldn't feel any suction covering the intake with my thumb. So took it off to check it, looked good, felt good, put it back, nothing. So I put the old pump back on, worked fine, got it bled. Went to crank it, click, then nothing. Getting annoyed at this point. Checked the battery, which I already knew was old, it was dead as a hammer. No sweat, I need a new one anyway. Installed new battery, turned key, all lights on fine, poof- spark at positive terminal, solenoid click, nothing else. Idiot lights come on nice and bright. I need to check the solenoid I guess and/or starter. Battery cables are old too so maybe they are getting cruddy down there. Well I have a dual fuel filter assbly and behind it is a nice piece of sheet metal I guess sort of a cover. I've never tried to take this off- if I pull the fuel filter assbly bolts out without actually taking the filters off, it looks like this cover will come off then I can put the filter assbly back on. Does that make sense? I just want to be able to get to the solenoid/starter/battery cables and with that cover on there I can't see spit.

If the hand primer does not operate, try turning the engine over exactly 1 turn next time. This rotates the injection pump camshaft 1/2
revolution, and takes it from the high spot to the low spot on the cam.

A spark/poof at an electrical connection indicates that it is loose. Tightening of all connections are in order.

I thought about that, I didn't have the battery connected and at the time I was thinking something was wrong with the pump, and I had another one so I just swapped it out.
Battery cables are tight. I'm not talking a major spark, just enough where I could see it. I've also tried hooking up my jump box to it, same result. Of course like I said, I want to get in there to the solenoid/starter and I just can't until I take this cover off. I would like to avoid having to take the filters all the way off if I can.

I don't care how big or small the spark is. If there are any sparks at all, that indicates a loose connection. If the nut feels tight at the
connection you suspect, then you need to think about corrosion on the threads preventing a tight connection.

Given how much of a PITA those dual filters are with regards to starter access, I'd take them off myself. Bleeding them is not hard after you
get the primer pump in the right spot on the cam.

I was not arguing with you about it, as a matter of fact that is one of the reasons I said I wanted to get in behind those filters and check the connections.
My goal today was not to pee in anyone's cornflakes. Apparently I can write today off as a loss.

No problem on my end. I'm not upset in any way.

(quoted from post at 15:08:24 09/14/20) No problem on my end. I'm not upset in any way.

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me either and thanks for the help. Sorry, didn't mean to take out any frustration on you.

First, you were right anyway. I did take the back cover off, didn't help a lick, still had to take the filters off. No biggie.

Second- figured it out when I realized I could not turn it over by hand. it was stuck in gear even though everything was in neutral. I've had this problem before, after a long humid couple of weeks the clutch stuck. I hit the clutch a couple of times with my foot and it unstuck. So today I did the same thing, made sure I was on the clutch and bang it started right up. Now I have to go bleed it again and figure out what to do about this battery tray that is about rusted through.

If it started and kept running there's no need to bleed it again.
Aftermarket battery trays are available for your tractor.