Need help with Ford 860 and double clutch

Hi, all! I've got a Ford 860 with the double clutch, and it has been working well for four years, but all of a sudden has developed a problem.

The other day I used it for just a few minutes, and the few times I let out on the clutch, it made a rattling/vibrating/grinding noise right at the TOP of the the pedal's range, just before the tractor got into gear and started rolling.

Once in gear, no noise. If in neutral or clutch fully depressed, no noise.

Well, today I used it for about 5 minutes, and it did the same thing until all of a sudden it stopped going into gear. All 5 gears are essentially neutral. No more grinding, but no more driving anywhere, either.

The PTO still engages and disengages just fine.

Any ideas what to look for? I'm assuming a split is mandatory?

I've split a Jubilee and replaced the clutch and bearings and also rebuilt some of the tranny, so I've got a pretty good idea what is involved, but I don't have experience with the double clutch.

Also, the Jubilee I split in my garage. This 860 is in the middle of nowhere on semi-level dirt and long grass. Any tips or tricks about splitting a tractor in a field?

Thanks in advance!

JEff
 
that sounds like hub in trans disc fell apart. It can be done, sheet 3/4 plywood, couple floor jacks or one and bunch of wood blocks. Make wedges for front axle to keep from tilting. I have piece of 3/16
plate couple feet wide and 8-9 feet long I use when doing one outside.
 
Agree with pomester, I'd tow it back to a workshop if at all possible for the clutch replacement. Not anything different to replace the double clutch versus a single clutch, just the double clutch is much more expensive. You won't even need an alignment tool to replace the double clutch.
 
Yep, the clutch is blown. There's nothing special about replacing the double clutch, aside from the cost and the need for a special tool to set it up. Which the clutch manufacturer or rebuilder should have already done when they assembled the new clutch. No need to resurface the flywheel, as there's no flywheel wear with the double clutch.
 


You can do it out in the wild, but pulling it back together will make you wish that you had it level. As already said get it on plywood or even just three planks, but get the planks level both side to side and front to back. Be safe! block the front and roll the rear using a RIGID Hobo NC jack!
 
I am with the others who advise you to tow it back to the shop.
Do you have another tractor or a pickup to tow it? If not try
and get a friend or neighbor to help .
 
On a side note, do yourself a favor and replace the transmission and PTO input shaft seals while you have the tractor split.
 
(quoted from post at 09:35:45 09/02/20) On a side note, do yourself a favor and replace the transmission and PTO input shaft seals while you have the tractor split.

Thanks for the advice, everyone!

Is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there?
 
(quoted from post at 10:25:01 09/02/20)
(quoted from post at 09:35:45 09/02/20) On a side note, do yourself a favor and replace the transmission and PTO input shaft seals while you have the tractor split.

Thanks for the advice, everyone!

Is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there?

Yes, clutch release bearing and pilot bushing.
 
I really appreciate the help!

I have a master parts catalog and shop manual, but I just want to be sure. Does anyone have the part numbers for the transmission and PTO input seals?

Also, is there a trick to getting the old pilot bearing out?

And finally, how do I disengage the throwout bearing carrier from the spring, so I can pull the bearing carrier off of the shaft?

Thanks!

Jeff
 
You might want to start another thread. The members reading in 'classic view' will not see this because the thread does not float to the top over there.

trans shaft seal = CONN-7A283-A
pto seal = NDA-7028-A

To unhook the spring I took an old screwdriver, heated the end and bent it into a hook. Make sure everything is chocked and blocked before you start pulling on it, it's stout.

The pilot bushing can be removed with a slide hammer or you can unbolt the flywheel and drive it out.
 


While the release bearing slips past the brake pedal shaft on an 861, the shaft is in the way on an 860 and it needs to be pulled out.
 

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