And so it begins........

Tom Bond

Member
The weather has cooled off some here so I thought I'd take the opportunity to start on the 961. Took the tires off and loaded them up. One tube is leaking calcium chloride so I'm going to have both tubes replaced minus the CC. Never replaced tubes before. Getting them both done and CC disposed of for $296. Good price? The power steering cylinder has had the seals replaced as well as the hydraulic pump. Putting them both on tomorrow but will see how the pump works out. Guy I took it to replaced what was in there which was a 1 lip seal, not a 2 lip that I find out is supposed to be in there. I asked him about it and he feels the 1 lip will work fine as there's no pressure to speak of in that part of the pump on either side. If it leaks by, I'll have to buy a new drive head for the pump as somewhere along it's life, the seal cavity has been opened up to 2-1/16" to accommodate the 1 lip seal. OEM is 2" so I'll just get the head and correct seal and rebuild that end of the pump if needed. After that, all fluids get changed and if all is mechanically sound, the cosmetics will start. Fresh paint on entire tractor, rear weights and front box weights as well.
I never realized how heavy that Calcium Chloride actually is until loading the tires tonight. WOW....


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Sounds to me that all will not be mechanically well but, hey, I'm an*l.

Still, I expect that the prep and paint work will be exceptional as was that on your last project.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 03:37:12 07/11/20) Sounds to me that all will not be mechanically well but, hey, I'm an*l.

Still, I expect that the prep and paint work will be exceptional as was that on your last project.

Dean

Prep and paint will be even better than last time. I learned a few things on that one. As for the mechanically well, I assume your referring to the pump seal. I do a lot of work with hydronics, hydraulics, refrigerants, ammonia and other fluids that use seals. They are far superior to the seals from 60 years ago so I'm willing to give the new one a shot. I'm pretty confident it will do the job as well if not better then the original. Hey. If not, the remedy is simple. I'll buy the new drive head and original type seal and replace 'em. Either way, I've got some work ahead of me and looking forward to it.
 
Nice machine! Working tractor or show? I suggest you have rims and tires washed out and dried real good before installing new tubes. OEM rims are hard to find. Tire chart listed in Owner's Manual. States: average Ca Chl fill is 5 pounds per gallon of water. The 11-28 4 ply rear tire takes 164 lbs. of Ca Chl, 32 gallons of water, and weighs 440 lbs. I highly advise to take tractor to your local AG TIRE CENTER and let them do all the work. They have all the correct equipment, tools, and experience to do the job and worth the costs. If you need ballast for a working tractor, consider Rim Guard (Beet Juice)or wheel weights.


Tim Daley(MI)
 
Good looking machine. Like the later style pedestal. Just picked up a wide front and friend gave me a NF in case I want to switch them for pulling. Good luck with your new tractor Tom.
 
They are heavy !!! You must have rolled them onto the trailer. Once they flop over, they are not easy to stand up, not sure I could
still do that by hand, but have in the past. That's the one thing about CACL, the weight, very heavy ballast, aside from the
drawbacks and or lets say monitoring and maintenance with using CACL Sounds like a good price to get the work done, $150 a tire,
hard to beat that ! Look forward to the progress photos and finished product !
 
Be careful when remounting the hydraulic pump.

It appears that you have the correct square cut O-Rings which may well seal even after R & R.

Be CERTAIN that the O-Rings on both ends of the hydraulic manifold (if removed) are properly positioned before tightening the bolts.

I install a grade 8 flat washer on all of the studs to help distribute the forces applied by the nuts. Tighten the nuts to proper torque in several stages. Improper technique can crack the aluminum manifold.

I usually remove the manifold so as to set the gear backlash without consideration of the manifold. A small screwdriver into the connection for the tach cable can be used to check backlash. Add gaskets as
necessary to assure at least a bit of backlash. Once you know how many gaskets you need, reinstall the manifold and torque to spec.

Dean
 
Funny you ask that. I asked the same. It's installed to keep the oil in the crankcase although the guy who did the work said he's confident it won't pass motor oil or the hydraulic fluid the other way. We'll see. Not that big a deal to get the pump off so like I mentioned earlier, if it leaks hydraulic fluid back into the crankcase, I'll pull it back off and rebuild the drive portion of the pump back OEM parts.
 

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