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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
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8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts

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Ohiohills

06-15-2020 11:16:56




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I've purchased a set of undrilled fender skins for my 1948 8N and plan to mount them to the original steel fender frame/stiffener supports. Originally, the fender skins were riveted to the stiffeners with fairly big rivets (like 3/8" dia.). Since riveting is not in my game plan, I will need to use bolts of some style ... what have others used as skin-to-stiffener attachment bolts?? Carriage bolts? Hex head bolts? Or, is there a source of some other bolt that would reflect the original "round head" look?

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Royse

06-28-2020 06:32:23




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to Ohiohills, 06-15-2020 11:16:56  
I don't remember the exact size, but I used ones with serrations

on the shaft like a wheel stud instead of a square like carriage bolts.

Here's an example on Grainger



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Ohiohills

06-28-2020 07:14:03




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to Royse, 06-28-2020 06:32:23  
Ah!! Those ribbed-neck carriage bolts look like a great solution!! Far easier that filing down square necks and still would provide for "holding" the head ends of the bolts and preventing them from turning.



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graham_in_NJ

06-16-2020 06:29:52




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to Ohiohills, 06-15-2020 11:16:56  
I'm with Showcrop - without the square cutout, the round shank of the "modified" carriage head bolt will likely spin trying to tighten it. And if not, after a few months of moisture, you won't be able to unbolt them. Not that you're likely to, but it removes the possibility of doing so if needed. Especially if they loosen with vibration.



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Ohiohills

06-16-2020 21:06:23




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to graham_in_NJ, 06-16-2020 06:29:52  
You are correct, without the square shank it is somewhat difficult to tighten the "rounded off" carriage bolts; however, for the two that I made, they pulled fairly tight without spinning, so I'm not too concerned. Also, removal isn't a concern as the skins were originally attached with rivets that proved to be quite difficult to remove when I disassembled the originals. Plus, the nuts can always be cut off with a wafer wheel if removal is ever necessary.

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Lynn Patrick

06-16-2020 06:19:03




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to Ohiohills, 06-15-2020 11:16:56  
Not fender skins, but I have made "rivets" for front bumpers by chucking a bolt in a cordless drill & running it on a running bench grinder to shape them like rivet heads.



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showcrop

06-16-2020 03:59:51




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to Ohiohills, 06-15-2020 11:16:56  
I used carriage bolts. I "squared" the holes in the skin by cutting corners with the little cutting wheel on my Dremel. I dipped the heads of the bolts in phosphoric acid in order to allow the paint to stick.



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wore out

06-15-2020 15:54:56




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to Ohiohills, 06-15-2020 11:16:56  
I remember back a few years someone posted on here about using Torx or "hex" roundhead screws and soldering the drive bit opening shut.

Sounds like a lot of work, but would look like a rivet when done (which was the whole idea).



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Gantt

06-15-2020 11:52:42




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to Ohiohills, 06-15-2020 11:16:56  
i would think carriage bolts would do the trick, look more original than bolts



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Ohiohills

06-15-2020 19:09:56




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 Re: 8N Fender Skin Attachment Bolts in reply to Gantt, 06-15-2020 11:52:42  
So, this afternoon I identified the bolt hole locations, drilled new holes, and mounted one of the new fender skins to the framework using hex head bolts. It's functional, but doesn't look very nice.

As an experiment, I took a pair of 3/8" carriage bolts and removed the square shank by first grinding off what I could, then chucking the bolts in the drill press and filing off the remainder of the shank. They look much better on the fenders than the hex heads!! Rather time consuming to do, but certainly "do-able". There are a total of ten bolts in each fender, so rather than do all ten, I may just "turn down" the top seven bolts and leave the bottom three as hex heads.

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