1964ish Ford 2000 4 cyl. gas - Spindle Gap?

DIYAndy

Member
Ok, so I'm trying to keep the front wheels of my late dad's old tractor from falling off. So, I purchased two new aftermarket spindles (about $20 each!?), and a wheel bearing kit that matches the original Timken numbers that are on the original bearings and races. The bearings would NOT go onto the new spindle. They would go on the old spindles and pictured below is what I'm confused about. There's a gap that wasn't there before. Granted, there was some scoring from the hub onto the spindle, which is why I ordered the new spindles in the first place. Is this gap normal? And why would the bearings not go onto the new spindles which look identical to the original spindles, except for the scoring of course. Also, I purchase the 2 spindles from 2 different sources. Strange that the new bearings with the correct numbers would go on the old spindles, but no way were they going on the new ones.
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Also, I just located my model and serial number. However, I am a little confused. Model No. 21202, Serial No. 8610. The serial number suggests a 1962? But the model number indicates a post 1963 model? Confused.
 
21202 is a 4 cylinder 3000 ag chassis model with adjustable front axle, a 4 speed transmission, non-live PTO and 3 point hydraulics.

8610 is a 1962 a serial number, but it was made in late 1962 to be part of the 1963 model year. That is why the second digit is a 1.
 
(quoted from post at 04:26:38 05/30/20) 21202 is a 4 cylinder 3000 ag chassis model with adjustable front axle, a 4 speed transmission, non-live PTO and 3 point hydraulics.

8610 is a 1962 a serial number, but it was made in late 1962 to be part of the 1963 model year. That is why the second digit is a 1.

3000? Did you mean 2000? That clears up what year it is. I had just guessed at the 1964 by looking pics of similar tractors. Still not sure why my new bearings didn't fit the new spindles, unless I just happened to get cheap imports from 2 separate sources. They looked identical though. I don't have a tool to accurately measure the diameter where the bearing fits.
 
I've never looked at the spindles that closely to notice whether there's a gap or not, but if the bearings were worn and there was no gap, and you replaced the bearings with new ones and now there is a gap, my bet would be that it is now correct, as the bearings are supposed to take the load, not the bottom end of the axle tube, so you wouldn't want the bottom of the spindle rubbing on the outside of the tube.
 

That's what I was hoping. The old bearings fell apart when I removed the hub. I do believe they were original 1963 bearings. Thanks for your replies.
 
Did you get all the bearing out of the knee ? There is a cage that holds it all together and if brg is so worn out it will stay in knee when pull spindle.
 

I got it all. It all fell apart and the cage, ball bearings and everything came out. I also took the old races out, as they were scored. I scrubbed the inside and outside of the parts to get the gunk out and blasted the outside of the parts. Then primed and painted them. Installed the new races, packed bearings, grease seals, and reinstalled. I also installed new bushings in the axle tube (?). All of that was a bit more work than I had counted on. Has me second guessing the future rebuild that I have planned.
 

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