Hydraulic help (please it s hay season)

Rodeo man

Member
Developed a hydraulic leak right at my pump on my 961. Gentleman works on my stuff. I personally consider him to be the best. He changed the o rings for me, and it immediately started leaking again. He says there is some plumbing , or casing back in the transmission that is probably leaking. He thinks it might not be worth fixing.

Hadn t had this tractor long, and I ve throwed a small fortune at it already.


Surely it s not that bad.

Some things to note:
Recently added remotes.
It pours out. Like a stream.
 
You need to determine where it is leaking - if the O-rings (which are not round, but rather look like short sections of hose) have been replaced correctly (the manifold needs to be tightened incrementally between the pump and the bell housing) then there are a couple of places the pump can leak - there's a couple of gaskets associated with the pump body and end cap, there's an large o-ring between the pump body and the gear housing, altho there shouldn't be hydraulic pressure there.

If you can, pressure wash the area, blow it dry, fire up the tractor and see where the oil is escaping.

Pump is rebuildable, parts are readily available, there is no doubt it is worth fixing -
 
(quoted from post at 03:29:44 05/27/20) You need to determine where it is leaking - if the O-rings (which are not round, but rather look like short sections of hose) have been replaced correctly (the manifold needs to be tightened incrementally between the pump and the bell housing) then there are a couple of places the pump can leak - there's a couple of gaskets associated with the pump body and end cap, there's an large o-ring between the pump body and the gear housing, altho there shouldn't be hydraulic pressure there.

If you can, pressure wash the area, blow it dry, fire up the tractor and see where the oil is escaping.

Pump is rebuildable, parts are readily available, there is no doubt it is worth fixing -
mvphoto55484.jpg


I really appreciate the help. If the picture loads, I ll explain further.
 
The o-ring/seal to the front holds the pressure - it's worth checking and seeing if it is the proper one and in the proper position. Did your mechanic remove the pump to replace the seals or did he loosen the manifold? it's quite possible for the pump to leak where the head is bolted to the body and if it happens at the lower back side it might appear the pump/manifold seal is leaking. it's not particularly difficult to remove and refurbish the pump if it should be necessary.
 
(quoted from post at 03:51:28 05/27/20) The o-ring/seal to the front holds the pressure - it's worth checking and seeing if it is the proper one and in the proper position. Did your mechanic remove the pump to replace the seals or did he loosen the manifold? it's quite possible for the pump to leak where the head is bolted to the body and if it happens at the lower back side it might appear the pump/manifold seal is leaking. it's not particularly difficult to remove and refurbish the pump if it should be necessary.

I m not sure exactly how it was installed. This guy has worked on my "stuff" for 40 years. He said it may need an entire transmission casing. I m getting some hopeful comments here though. Makes me think it can be fixed cheap enough.
 
"transmission casing" doesn't tell me anything, I don't know what he's talking about. The pump bolts to the engine block with two (kinda special) bolts and is driven off a gear bolted to the end of the camshaft. The manifold is held to the bottom of the pump by three nuts/washers and to the bell housing by three bolts. There are two rubber seals under the pump and two seals where the manifold bolts to the bell housing. The larger seal toward the rear of the pump is the suction seal, the smaller one toward the front seals the pressure.

Unless the manifold is cracked/broken getting the seals to to hold is pretty straightforward. The pump is torqued to the block first. Loosen the manifold at the bell housing so it can self position as the bolts/nuts are tightened. Make sure you have the proper seals (available from this site), the sealing areas are clean, and the seals remain in the proper position while tightening the nuts. Get the nuts under the pump snug but not tight, snug up the bell housing bolts, tighten the nuts, tighten the bolts.

If the leak does not stop, look at the pump - make sure the bolts holding the head to the body are tight. If so, it seems likely the pump is leaking at the head, probably from a compromised gasket. Rebuild kits are available from this site, the I&T manual has detailed instructions on the rebuild. The biggest PITA is clean removal of the old gaskets, and valve seat replacement. Removal of the gaskets is just careful elbow grease. I've not found a valve seat that actually needed replaced in any of the pumps I've been in, so I skip that part. Do inspect them carefully tho. There's discussion here about how to do seat replacement if it's necessary.

Dunno - access to all this is straightforward and nothing is particularly complicated. Good luck.

David
 
(quoted from post at 04:46:32 05/27/20) "transmission casing" doesn't tell me anything, I don't know what he's talking about. The pump bolts to the engine block with two (kinda special) bolts and is driven off a gear bolted to the end of the camshaft. The manifold is held to the bottom of the pump by three nuts/washers and to the bell housing by three bolts. There are two rubber seals under the pump and two seals where the manifold bolts to the bell housing. The larger seal toward the rear of the pump is the suction seal, the smaller one toward the front seals the pressure.

Unless the manifold is cracked/broken getting the seals to to hold is pretty straightforward. The pump is torqued to the block first. Loosen the manifold at the bell housing so it can self position as the bolts/nuts are tightened. Make sure you have the proper seals (available from this site), the sealing areas are clean, and the seals remain in the proper position while tightening the nuts. Get the nuts under the pump snug but not tight, snug up the bell housing bolts, tighten the nuts, tighten the bolts.

If the leak does not stop, look at the pump - make sure the bolts holding the head to the body are tight. If so, it seems likely the pump is leaking at the head, probably from a compromised gasket. Rebuild kits are available from this site, the I&T manual has detailed instructions on the rebuild. The biggest PITA is clean removal of the old gaskets, and valve seat replacement. Removal of the gaskets is just careful elbow grease. I've not found a valve seat that actually needed replaced in any of the pumps I've been in, so I skip that part. Do inspect them carefully tho. There's discussion here about how to do seat replacement if it's necessary.

Dunno - access to all this is straightforward and nothing is particularly complicated. Good luck.

David

Extremely helpful. Rainy day today, I ll start today.
 

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