Ford 4000 Clutch Failing to Disengage After Replacement

Tlaughlin5

New User
A little backstory on the situation - I just recently replaced the clutch disk on my 1974 Ford 4000 3 Cyl. gasser. There wasn't any clutch issue prior to replacement, I did this only because I had the tractor split and the trans up on the workbench to rebuild. Along with the clutch I put in a new throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Now that I have the tractor back together, I can't get the clutch to disengage. I have the adjustment yoke at the end of threads (no adjustment left) and I can hear the throwout bearing hit the pressure plate fingers, but it isn't enough to disengage the clutch. Along with this issue, the clutch pedal will not return - I never had an issue with this before and the spring seems to be in good condition (external spring under foot board).

From what I have read in some other forums is that the new clutch disk is probably a little bit thicker since its new, and I did not adjust the pressure plate fingers. Some folks have mentioned this solution: cut new threads on the adjustment rod and shorten the rod. Is this an acceptable practice as long as there is enough free play in the clutch pedal? I'm also assuming that my pedal won't return due to the increased length of travel for linkage. The only thing that worries me with this solution is the throwout fork slipping off the bearing carrier. Sorry for being long winded, this has been troubling me.

Thanks in advance for all the help.

-Tristan
cvphoto44987.jpg
 
You didn't put the disk in backwards, did you? The hub on the disc faces the flywheel on that clutch, which is not typical of most clutches.
 
Gosh I hope I didn't, but I guess the only way I can check is splitting it again and taking it off. I can't remember for the life of me now. I had the shop manual handy when doing the job, but I may have misread that. I want to do the job right so I foresee myself splitting it again anyhow. Thanks for the input!
 
Going back through the shop manual I see now where it says all single disc models with IPTO need to have the long hug facing forward (toward flywheel). I'll take off the steering sector this weekend and check my work. Thanks again for the help
 
By the time you go through all the work of removing the steering box, you might as well split the thing, since it's really not any more work.
 
I agree - I think I'll also replace the rear main seal this time... Any idea of the freeze plugs in the block? How many and what size? from the parts catalogs I can that there are two, maybe 1.75" (44.5mm) each.
 
(quoted from post at 11:30:15 05/28/20) Two in the back of the block, and one in the back of the head. All 1.75".

Much appreciated Bern! You have been a great help. Think these garden variety NAPA plugs (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEP3813168?ref=MA==)
will work? Would rather avoid dealer markup.
 
So I got the tractor split today and I did have the clutch disc in correctly, but when I took the pressure plate and disc off I noticed that the pilot bearing just fell out. I don't know how it worked itself out of place - maybe when I was trying to bring the tractor back together last time the input shaft worked it out of place. I'm wondering if this might be the reason that the clutch was out of adjustment? Anyway I will still replace the rear main seal since I have it apart. Any reason to replace the freeze plugs if the seem to be in good shape? I count only two - one in the block and one in the head.

Any tips on replacing the rear main seal?
mvphoto55656.jpg
 

Maybe I put the bracket that goes over the pilot bearing in wrong? I don't know the name of the part, but it is a "U" bracket that bolts down with two of the flywheel bolts. I had it bolted down over the pilot bearing so that there is space between the bracket and the pilot bearing. IS this wrong? Should this bracket be flush with the pilot bearing?
 
(quoted from post at 12:01:49 05/28/20)
(quoted from post at 11:30:15 05/28/20) Two in the back of the block, and one in the back of the head. All 1.75".

Much appreciated Bern! You have been a great help. Think these garden variety NAPA plugs (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEP3813168?ref=MA==)
will work? Would rather avoid dealer markup.

Tlaughlin5, how do you know that NAPA doesn't pay 25% more for their plugs than the New Holland dealer does? and that they don't mark them up 25% more? Either way freeze plugs are cheap.
 
(quoted from post at 04:44:33 05/31/20)
(quoted from post at 12:01:49 05/28/20)
(quoted from post at 11:30:15 05/28/20) Two in the back of the block, and one in the back of the head. All 1.75".

Much appreciated Bern! You have been a great help. Think these garden variety NAPA plugs (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEP3813168?ref=MA==)
will work? Would rather avoid dealer markup.

Tlaughlin5, how do you know that NAPA doesn't pay 25% more for their plugs than the New Holland dealer does? and that they don't mark them up 25% more? Either way freeze plugs are cheap.

Because they are around $4 less at NAPA
 

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