3600 hydraulic pump on a 3000

BobReeves

Member
My 3000 has a loader running off the tractor hydraulics and the pump is getting tired. It has always been a little slow but worked well enough for what I need but now it it is slowly getting worse. I can get an aftermarket 3600 pump for around $200.00. I do understand the fittings are different (I also have a 3600) but wondering just how much trouble/work it would take to install the 3600 pump.

Also anyone bought an aftermarket $200.00 pump? Are they worth a crap?
 
Never got around to it, other projects kept getting in the way. Would really like to have a 3600 pump on my 3000 just not sure what the best way would be to adapt the lines. Those lines were a real pain to deal with when I split the 3600 for a clutch and afraid I may be getting into a can of worms.

My guess would be to have a set of 3600 lines maybe from a salvage tractor before you even start. The return line shouldn't be a big deal. Piece of hose and a couple clamps. The pressure line is the difficult one. Maybe a double flair with fittings.
 
(quoted from post at 04:41:41 12/16/18) Never got around to it, other projects kept getting in the way. Would really like to have a 3600 pump on my 3000 just not sure what the best way would be to adapt the lines. Those lines were a real pain to deal with when I split the 3600 for a clutch and afraid I may be getting into a can of worms.

My guess would be to have a set of 3600 lines maybe from a salvage tractor before you even start. The return line shouldn't be a big deal. Piece of hose and a couple clamps. The pressure line is the difficult one. Maybe a double flair with fittings.

Yeah, I was looking at it last night. I think I'm going to try rebuilding the old one for now.
 
You got me thinking about this again. Today via email I contacted a couple tractor salvage yards that said they had a 3600 on the lot. I asked what they would charge for the two end fittings with about a foot of pipe still connected. Suggested they just cut off the tubes with the fittings to make them easier to ship. Wouldn't need the full length tubes anyway, mainly the fittings with enough tubing to work with.

Am sure it will take a few days for anyone to get back to me if at all.
 
Well, you guys have my interest now. Are you talking about putting this pump on a 3000?

mvphoto28131.jpg


What kind of flow increase are we talking? I’d whittle some fittings out of a cedar stick to make it work if we’re talking about a substantial flow increase.

-Scott
 
(quoted from post at 16:24:32 12/16/18) You got me thinking about this again. Today via email I contacted a couple tractor salvage yards that said they had a 3600 on the lot. I asked what they would charge for the two end fittings with about a foot of pipe still connected. Suggested they just cut off the tubes with the fittings to make them easier to ship. Wouldn't need the full length tubes anyway, mainly the fittings with enough tubing to work with.

Am sure it will take a few days for anyone to get back to me if at all.

Let me know what you find out... I may look at it down the road too.
 
(quoted from post at 18:11:43 12/16/18) Well, you guys have my interest now. Are you talking about putting this pump on a 3000?

mvphoto28131.jpg


What kind of flow increase are we talking? I’d whittle some fittings out of a cedar stick to make it work if we’re talking about a substantial flow increase.

-Scott

Yes this is exactly what I would like to do. The 3000 pump is 4.25 GPM while the 3600 pump is 8.5 GPM. If like me your loader is operating off the tractor hydraulics this should give a substantial improvement in performance and be much easier than sourcing and installing a front pump.
 
Let me run this by you.

What if, instead of trying to adapt 3000 or 3600 factory lines, you find fittings or adapt fittings to go into the pump and where they go into the rear housing, make hoses to run between them, and tee into the hoses and run from the tees to the loader? This way the loader would get full flow, just like if you were running the crank driven pump, and the lift would still be getting flow as well? With twice the flow of the OE pump, I would think there would be plenty of flow and, after all, how many times would you actually be using the loader [i:398e43c543]AND [/i:398e43c543]the lift at the exact same time?

-Scott
 

Same results if one uses the adapter plate under the remote valve, but no rubber hoses running down the side of the tractor to get caught on something.
 

Forgot to add that you can't tee into the hydraulic lines, fluid would flow thru the path of least resistance (lift control) and the loader would never raise.
Loader has to the plumbed in series with the lift unless it's connected to the remotes.
 
So, if my loader valve had a Power Beyond port, I could plumb from the pump to the loader valve, then from the PB port back to where the lines from my pump go now, correct? That way, when the loader isn’t being used the lift will work. As I said, I can’t imagine a scenario where you would try to use both at the same time.

What are the chances that the valve on my 730 loader has PB?

-Scott
 
If it's a Cross valve it may have a port that can be converted to PB with an adaptor available from Cross. I converted the one on my 3000 for rear remotes. For normal loader operation it wasn't used. Think the return from the valve went back to the adaptor plate. Can't remember exactly how it was plumbed.
 
Should have added, my loader and lift do not seem to have any interaction at all. Of course only having one right hand I can't move the loader and lift at the same time.
 
(quoted from post at 13:48:33 12/16/18)
(quoted from post at 04:41:41 12/16/18) Never got around to it, other projects kept getting in the way. Would really like to have a 3600 pump on my 3000 just not sure what the best way would be to adapt the lines. Those lines were a real pain to deal with when I split the 3600 for a clutch and afraid I may be getting into a can of worms.

My guess would be to have a set of 3600 lines maybe from a salvage tractor before you even start. The return line shouldn't be a big deal. Piece of hose and a couple clamps. The pressure line is the difficult one. Maybe a double flair with fittings.

Yeah, I was looking at it last night. I think I'm going to try rebuilding the old one for now.
 
(quoted from post at 20:28:21 12/17/18)
Forgot to add that you can't tee into the hydraulic lines, fluid would flow thru the path of least resistance (lift control) and the loader would never raise.
Loader has to the plumbed in series with the lift unless it's connected to the remotes.

Would need a closed center control for the loader if you did that. On some controls, its simply changing out a plug. On others you have to change out the entire control.
 
(quoted from post at 00:41:22 12/18/18) So, if my loader valve had a Power Beyond port, I could plumb from the pump to the loader valve, then from the PB port back to where the lines from my pump go now, correct? That way, when the loader isn t being used the lift will work. As I said, I can t imagine a scenario where you would try to use both at the same time.

What are the chances that the valve on my 730 loader has PB?

-Scott

Won't make any difference, pump oil goes directly thru the flow control to the block off plate or remote valve if the tractor has one, a priority plate under the block off plate or remote would send fluid to the loader first, then back thru the remote to the 3 pt lift, lift is the last thank to get oil.
One needs to get the suction tube from a late 3600 or 3610 for the gear pump, both ends of the tube simply fit on a o-ring with nothing to hold the tube in place other than the fit, installing a hose between two half's gives it a flex point that could allow the tube to slip out of the pump or axle fitting, there are a couple of clamps to help hold the tube in place but I wouldn't trust them with a rubber connection. One could get the pump end of the tube and weld it to the 3000's tube but one from a salvage tractor is simplest.
I recently did a pump conversion like this using the suction tube from a salvage yard, the pressure line we put a fitting on and added a short length of hydraulic line. Haven't got the tractor completely back together yet to see how it all works
 
Any update on this?

How did you make the adapter on the pressure side? I see a new suction tube is $113 from Messicks.

My pump went bad on my 3000 and trying to determine the best path forward. This is the second pump I have had on the tractor. I rebuilt the first pump and it never would hold prime so I replaced it with a good used one around 6 years ago. Can't get this one to prime.

Guess I maybe should check the suction orings first.

John
 

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