2810 sometimes starts

title states it, it always clicks, has a new solenoid, i cleaned the ground cable, and attachment at tractor. Also has new battery, both cables and terminals are in great shape. I believe I'm having a charging issue. The alternator puts out 17 volts on large wire and 14.4 volts on smaller (at alternator), but I'm not getting that at battery, only 12.2 (I just put a new battery). Is there something like a regulator in between thats not allowing charge voltage to battery? I checked all fussed, and a couple were blown (have no idea what they went to). Tractor runs great, only has 930 hours. Its an 1988, 2810 diesel. 3 position ignition switch. Can't figure out how to get blinkers on either. Replaced those bulbs, light switch is just a pull knob and appears to only turn on the work light for the 3 pt work area. Am I missing something for the blinkers too? They are single wire, plan to remove, a d clean where they bolt to maybe help ground, otherwise still have no clue how to turn them on.
 
The original alternator on that tractor used an external voltage regulator. So if it is still original it should have one. It should be located at the rear of the engine compartment on the firewall up about the same height as the top of the battery.
 

Look on the mounting base of the left flasher light, there should be a push button there to activate the warning flashers, on some models they will only work when the other lights are on as they were connected to the work light wire, later models had a separate switch on the dash for the warning lights.
 
(quoted from post at 04:44:03 05/06/20) The original alternator on that tractor used an external voltage regulator. So if it is still original it should have one. It should be located at the rear of the engine compartment on the firewall up about the same height as the top of the battery.

OK, when I do a search for the voltage regulator there are I guess 3 versions come of mine is the Motorola, does it matter which one we get , my local New Holland dealer has some generic brand
 
(quoted from post at 04:44:03 05/06/20) The original alternator on that tractor used an external voltage regulator. So if it is still original it should have one. It should be located at the rear of the engine compartment on the firewall up about the same height as the top of the battery.

OK, when I do a search for the voltage regulator there are I guess 3 versions come of mine is the Motorola, does it matter which one we get , my local New Holland dealer has some generic brand
 
My problems with Fords starting has been with the tranny safety switch. Currently getting ready for one on my 3000D. Intermittently responds to the key
but holding it in the Start position and wiggling the shift lever I can hit the sweet spot and the switch will close. Bought a 3910 couple of years ago with
900 hours and it too had the safety switch problem with that few hours. Problem wasn't exactly with the switch as a new one didn't solve the problem.
Seems it was a tolerance buildup in the shifting mechanism and adding a spacer gave me the depth of penetration needed to close the circuit.
 
(quoted from post at 11:36:49 05/08/20) My problems with Fords starting has been with the tranny safety switch. Currently getting ready for one on my 3000D. Intermittently responds to the key
but holding it in the Start position and wiggling the shift lever I can hit the sweet spot and the switch will close. Bought a 3910 couple of years ago with
900 hours and it too had the safety switch problem with that few hours. Problem wasn't exactly with the switch as a new one didn't solve the problem.
Seems it was a tolerance buildup in the shifting mechanism and adding a spacer gave me the depth of penetration needed to close the circuit.

I appreciate your response and time, I had that same issue with my 3000, but this is a voltage/ampdraw issue. Mine clicks at the starter solonoid everything, but I believe its drawing too many amps, and slowly draining the battery, which doesn't appear to be charging. My alternator has 14 or so volts on the exciter wire, but almost 18 on the charge wire, yet when I get to battery, only a little over 12 volts, and its slowly dropped each day. If the battery looses voltage, the ampdraw will continue to get higher everything i attempt to start. A fresh battery made the issue go away, but as I slowly drain that voltage with each start, I eventually barely have enough for the starter to turn
 

Okay, am I missing something? Still no charge voltage to the battery, where does it go from voltage regulator in between the battery
 
Well, finally after tracing all wires back, I found that the charge wire going to starter solenoid had hardened, and broken in two but with the insulation still in tact. Fixed it, battery is finally charging!
 
Great. That was a tricky one to solve. But one never can tell what kind of "gotcha" one will experience with old farm equipment.
 

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