1963 Ford 2000

Jimmike44

New User
Some of you may remember helping me out some time ago with identifying and trying to get my tractor running (again). I have recently begun working on it again (still not running). I have put a new starter, electronic ignition, battery, plugs/wires, rebuilt the carburetor, ignition... I have so many other questions to try and figure my mess out, but here is today's question: what is the correct starter solenoid to be using on this tractor? It has a solenoid mounted to the side of the battery tray. My limited understanding of starter solenoids is that some are grounded through their base and some aren't? This tractor has been converted to a 12 v system. However, whoever did so bastardized the wiring, including removing the safety starter switch from the setup. I ask about the solenoid, because sometimes when I try to crank it up, the starter get stuck ON, even when I turn the key back and even remove the key. I have to disconnect the battery in order to stop the starter. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 09:38:22 05/07/20) Some of you may remember helping me out some time ago with identifying and trying to get my tractor running (again). I have recently begun working on it again (still not running). I have put a new starter, electronic ignition, battery, plugs/wires, rebuilt the carburetor, ignition... I have so many other questions to try and figure my mess out, but here is today's question: what is the correct starter solenoid to be using on this tractor? It has a solenoid mounted to the side of the battery tray. My limited understanding of starter solenoids is that some are grounded through their base and some aren't? This tractor has been converted to a 12 v system. However, whoever did so bastardized the wiring, including removing the safety starter switch from the setup. I ask about the solenoid, because sometimes when I try to crank it up, the starter get stuck ON, even when I turn the key back and even remove the key. I have to disconnect the battery in order to stop the starter. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
possibility is a weak battery. When a battery is too weak to spin a starter motor up to the speed it was designed to spin, then the motor will draw excessive current and that can be high enough to 'weld' the solenoid contacts closed. When this has happened to me in the past, I whack the solenoid with a big wrench and the contacts generally open and things stop.
 

1st off, diagnostics trumps throwing parts at it all to thunder!

Now as to solenoid. That tractor should have a 4 post solenoid. As originally mounted at the factory, the big post closest to you (the back one) should be connected to the battery. The front big post should go to the starter. There should be no continuity between these two posts until the starter coil (switch) pulls them in. In other words, continuity between the two large posts should only happen while you're trying to crank the engine.

The two small posts are the pull in coil. The I post should have a switched B+ (B- was OEM 6V) lead. In other words, it should only have power to it when the ignition switch is turned on. The small S terminal should have the wire to your starter switch. Your starter switch should supply a ground (B- in your case). This coil should have full continuity between both the small posts at all times.

There should be no continuity whatsoever between either of the big posts and either of the small posts. There also should be no continuity between any of the posts and the chassis ground.
 
I do agree about the diagnostics, but I'm learning about engines with this project. Everything I replaced appeared original, so I figured it wouldn't hurt!

I'm not home right now to test all the continuity checks you mentioned. I do know that there is a small white wire that runs from the ignition to a BIG post (I believe it is the post connected to the battery). While I thought that was weird from the getgo, this tractor did start and run just fine when I got it. While I may have messed up some wiring, that would not have been one because the white wire has a ring connector that fits a large post.

I'm not following you with the B+ and B- wires, what/where are those coming from?

Thanks for helping!
 

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