73 Ford 3000, I love this tractor.....BUT

GB in MT.

Well-known Member
I'm NOT too fond of the P.O.'s!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just cannot believe that someone would stand, and pour engine oil into the intake, without checking to see if the oil would be overloading and spilling all over the valve cover, and engine block??
What a stupid mess!!!!
I can't/won't even install my new wiring harness, until I get all that baked oil off the engine. Not to mention....change my old rusty/leaking exhaust system, to the new horizontal one, that I bought.
Frustrating to say the least!!!

Also, I just LOVE the color code changes they made, while splicing the wires together.
ALL stop, until I get the oil spill cleaned up, so I can install the Horizontal exhaust.........from block manifold to rear of the tail pipe!!
Chk. out the wiring splices, and oil spill:

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New horizontal sys.:
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Old exhaust vertical:
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Gary
 
I have a pressure washer so the first
thing I usually do to a new piece of
equipment is a thorough cleaning.
I also give them a bath once a year with
some purple power and the PW.
Sure makes working on them more pleasant.
That's quite the welding job on that
muffler.
 
GB,thats 47 years of oil,diesel fuel accumulation with dust.
Its normal.
I have 7 working tractors(5 Fords), always use a funnel to top up/fill with oil.
Work off the farm. no time to keep super clean.
Be grateful its relatively in tacked and running.
 

If you live long enoufh are hit the lottery and can fund modern equipment, they do not leak like the old stuff does....

That's one thing I don't miss : )... Well maybe the money : (

I try and make load spreaders to go on the valve cover bolts to spread the load on the valve cover it helps the issue I am running out of them cuzz GM does not make'em any more...

Reinforcement kit # 14085816 the real deal others are a joke...
 
I see you're talking about the Corvair valve cover retainers...those were quite the leakers.

I always glue down any cork valve cover gaskets with aviation sealant (link below). Absolutely no leaks afterwards. Pity the poor guy who
ever has to take that cover back off again though.
Aviation sealant
 
Put the old manifold back on before you start cleaning things up. You don't want any fluids getting into a cylinder through an open exhaust valve.
 

Now would be a good time to replace that leaking valve cover gasket, doesn't take much of a leak in that area and the fan will blow it everywhere.
I'd also replace that little rubber line on the bottom of the fuel cup for the thermostart, when they get old and hard they'll leak or crack and dump fuel on the exhaust manifold.
Those yellow wires with the connecters are not original, someones repaired the wiring or added something.
 

I never had the pleasure to work on a Corvair I have been told about the time they figured out how to stop the leaks they quit making them.

The Reinforcement kit I gave the number for was for mid 80's chebby 350's. I put them on everything when I can get my hands on the kits... They are hard and about impossible to drill for a larger bolt hole but doable... They are some sort of spring steel bent like a bow they spread the load and keep it spread.


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Mr Gasket has them but they are junk don't go there...
 
Corvairs have o-rings sealing the pushrod tubes (24), rubber valve cover gaskets, oil cooler grommets(? rubber seals), fuel pump o-ring, etc. First sold in 1959, the seal materials were not up to the demands of the situation. Temperatures were high enough that the o-rings hardened and leaked. There were many creative attempts at solutions, particularly when silicone sealant became available. Modern materials (viton o-rings in particular) make a tight engine readily achievable.

Since the machines used the engine cooling air for cabin heat and the exhaust manifolds were at the bottom of the engine, any oil leak made for a special atmosphere for the driver/passengers.

A vehicle ahead of its time.
 

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