Bought a 2810

starting a new thread, from the 2910 I thought I was gonna get. This one is a 1 owner with only 923 hours.coming from a 3000 gas, and compared to when I was considering a 2920, As to power being less, I think it will still do everything I need without issue... Now, given that statement, are their minor/easy mods to make these tractors a little more efficient/effective? I come from the diesel truck world, and none of mine are stock. I'm not looking for the hot rodding you get from the trucks, just any simple things to improve the function. Would a straight stack help any? Worth it? Noise doesn't bother me. Also, I know not to lug while working, but is it easy to get them to idle down lower like the older tractors?
 
Idle is going to be 600-700 rpm. A
straight pipe on a 3-cylinder is just
stupid loud. Dont do it. There won't be
any noticeable gain in h.p. or torque.
Dont worry about lugging that engine -
it can take it.
 
(quoted from post at 05:06:12 05/02/20) Idle is going to be 600-700 rpm. A
straight pipe on a 3-cylinder is just
stupid loud. Dont do it. There won't be
any noticeable gain in h.p. or torque.
Dont worry about lugging that engine -
it can take it.

Got it, I'm used to turning down that old 3000 and it would put at about 400 rpm (believe it or not) when id hop off to do stuff for a second. As to this little 3 cyl 158 ci, it appears when I try to search info, it wants to bring up the old 2000 series tractors, and point in the right direction there? What's the best manual for these tractors
 
If you want or need more power, about the only way you'll see a noticeable increase is by adding a turbo (find a late 4630 for parts.. and add a pyrometer!) or by increasing displacement... swap in a 192 rotating assembly, or a complete 183, 192, or 201.
 
Engaging the independent PTO with a bush hog will take some getting used to, do
it slowly.
 
I was thinking it was a 175... reguardless, scratch the 192 internals. A 192 has a 4.4" bore. A 183 parts swap might work- if I remember right, they are a 4.2" bore, 4.4" stroke. Or a 175 - 4.2x4.2. The deck height is the same, and I think the rods are... just different cranks and wrist pin locations. Or swap in a complete engine. Any of the 3-cylinders will fit. There's no replacement for displacement! :)
I usually just get the appropriate I&T manual for whatever model I'm working on... not as detailed as a Ford manual, but if you already know the basics, it has what you need.
 
The large OEM multi volume set of manuals are very nice to have for these, covers a lot of models too, I forget, 10 or 12 books, I have mine stored neatly in a box, can't recall.

PTO engagement, definitely follow the owners manual, (get the OEM owners manual). It's kind of a single motion move, with a pause in the middle. It took me some time to get used to. It never really sounds or feels right, and I am very careful. Darned thing has so much torque, (my 4630) that it can easily, during engagement, shear the bolt on the PTO shaft on my old Rhino SE-6. Instantly LOL ! I move the lever to the stop, back it off slightly and continue forward. A long time dealer service person who knows this era, told me to bring the throttle up ever so slightly, after describing what it does on mine at idle. I think his rationale is the get a slight bit more of hydraulic pressure up. (that is open for comments, I am not sure but it does seem to work better).

Another reminder that has been mentioned here is to be sure to idle the tractor down when disengaging the pto & rotary cutter. Following this practice will reduce wear on the PTO brake. You want the mower to stop spinning as quickly as it can. I had to think about when I would do this, old habit was always to idle down, but with these Independent PTO's not hard to forget because you can just move the lever without doing anything else. So when done cutting, but need to travel, not hard to just move the lever and not stop or idle down, easy to forget.
 


Sure Jeremiah, there are a lot of things you can do. Put a turbo kit on it, send the pump out to one of the competition pump shops like Scheid Diesel, Or Wiemer's and get it worked up good, advance the timing 10-15 degrees, turn the RPMs up to around 2800. You could really wake it up!
 
(quoted from post at 06:02:38 05/02/20) I was thinking it was a 175... reguardless, scratch the 192 internals. A 192 has a 4.4" bore. A 183 parts swap might work- if I remember right, they are a 4.2" bore, 4.4" stroke. Or a 175 - 4.2x4.2. The deck height is the same, and I think the rods are... just different cranks and wrist pin locations. Or swap in a complete engine. Any of the 3-cylinders will fit. There's no replacement for displacement! :)
I usually just get the appropriate I&T manual for whatever model I'm working on... not as detailed as a Ford manual, but if you already know the basics, it has what you need.

Noted!
 
(quoted from post at 07:32:54 05/02/20)

Sure Jeremiah, there are a lot of things you can do. Put a turbo kit on it, send the pump out to one of the competition pump shops like Scheid Diesel, Or Wiemer's and get it worked up good, advance the timing 10-15 degrees, turn the RPMs up to around 2800. You could really wake it up!

Are these similar to the trucks, in that they can handle these things without major supporting mods too?
 
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(quoted from post at 08:00:21 05/02/20)
(quoted from post at 07:32:54 05/02/20)

Sure Jeremiah, there are a lot of things you can do. Put a turbo kit on it, send the pump out to one of the competition pump shops like Scheid Diesel, Or Wiemer's and get it worked up good, advance the timing 10-15 degrees, turn the RPMs up to around 2800. You could really wake it up!

Are these similar to the trucks, in that they can handle these things without major supporting mods too?

Absolutely!! for weeks and weeks maybe for months.
 
(quoted from post at 09:51:35 05/02/20)
(quoted from post at 08:00:21 05/02/20)
(quoted from post at 07:32:54 05/02/20)

Sure Jeremiah, there are a lot of things you can do. Put a turbo kit on it, send the pump out to one of the competition pump shops like Scheid Diesel, Or Wiemer's and get it worked up good, advance the timing 10-15 degrees, turn the RPMs up to around 2800. You could really wake it up!

Are these similar to the trucks, in that they can handle these things without major supporting mods too?

Absolutely!! for weeks and weeks maybe for months.

I gonna assume thats Sarcasm, either way. Been working the tractor all morning, definitely an upgrade!
 
(quoted from post at 11:16:41 05/02/20)
(quoted from post at 09:51:35 05/02/20)
(quoted from post at 08:00:21 05/02/20)
(quoted from post at 07:32:54 05/02/20)

Sure Jeremiah, there are a lot of things you can do. Put a turbo kit on it, send the pump out to one of the competition pump shops like Scheid Diesel, Or Wiemer's and get it worked up good, advance the timing 10-15 degrees, turn the RPMs up to around 2800. You could really wake it up!

Are these similar to the trucks, in that they can handle these things without major supporting mods too?

Absolutely!! for weeks and weeks maybe for months.

I gonna assume thats Sarcasm, either way. Been working the tractor all morning, definitely an upgrade!


No, No, it's not sarcasm, just poking a little fun at the tractor pullers. I have a Ford 9000 that I use for nothing but pulling competitions. Over 15 years I gradually did a little more and a little more to it. But it doesn't have to work and it doesn't matter that it gets only 400 feet to the gallon.
 
Well, got some sort of starting issue, just randomly decides when it wants to turn the engine over. Supposedly has rebuilt starter, looks like a fairly new solenoid on the starter too. Battery is brand new for sure....

Also, gonna do a filter and fluid change all over, any other items I should address? Probably gonna use the CAT ELC coolant, that should be fine in place of having to add a jostle of additive, i think
 
(quoted from post at 14:53:56 05/02/20) Well, got some sort of starting issue, just randomly decides when it wants to turn the engine over. Supposedly has rebuilt starter, looks like a fairly new solenoid on the starter too. Battery is brand new for sure....

Also, gonna do a filter and fluid change all over, any other items I should address? Probably gonna use the CAT ELC coolant, that should be fine in place of having to add a jostle of additive, i think

The first thing to check is the battery terminals. not just clean, shiny and clean.
 
(quoted from post at 15:53:09 05/02/20)
(quoted from post at 14:53:56 05/02/20) Well, got some sort of starting issue, just randomly decides when it wants to turn the engine over. Supposedly has rebuilt starter, looks like a fairly new solenoid on the starter too. Battery is brand new for sure....

Also, gonna do a filter and fluid change all over, any other items I should address? Probably gonna use the CAT ELC coolant, that should be fine in place of having to add a jostle of additive, i think

The first thing to check is the battery terminals. not just clean, shiny and clean.

I put the battery in, its clean! Dielectric grease and all
 
Might be the key switch.

Might also be the neutral safety switch.

Have you tried using a wire from the battery directly to the solenoid as a test to see if the starter will spin the engine every time you touch the wire to it? (Make sure it's in neutral) That would bypass both. Then if that works try bypassing the neutral switch by disconnecting it and connecting the two wires together and then see if the key switch works reliably.
 
(quoted from post at 05:40:48 05/03/20) Might be the key switch.

Might also be the neutral safety switch.

Have you tried using a wire from the battery directly to the solenoid as a test to see if the starter will spin the engine every time you touch the wire to it? (Make sure it's in neutral) That would bypass both. Then if that works try bypassing the neutral switch by disconnecting it and connecting the two wires together and then see if the key switch works reliably.

Thats next on the docket, you can hear it try the solenoid everything, that already eliminated the neutral switch the way i see it, still gonna bypass the key switch, sometimes they make contact just not good contact... I'm not ruling out the solenoid either, I've had plenty of bad ones right out of the box before
 
Some technical questions, I'm curious what exactly rated engine speed is, my 3000 wouldn't rev past 2200 rpm (which was its rated speed), this tractor will rev right past that. Is it okay to work it at those speeds, or just drive around? Or should it be reving that high at all?
 
(quoted from post at 07:57:40 05/03/20) Some technical questions, I'm curious what exactly rated engine speed is, my 3000 wouldn't rev past 2200 rpm (which was its rated speed), this tractor will rev right past that. Is it okay to work it at those speeds, or just drive around? Or should it be reving that high at all?

Jeremiah, generally speaking smaller engines are designed to run faster and make their peak HP at much higher RPMs than larger motors. There is no problem to run it fast where the job requires it such as PTO work.
 
(quoted from post at 09:05:16 05/03/20)
(quoted from post at 07:57:40 05/03/20) Some technical questions, I'm curious what exactly rated engine speed is, my 3000 wouldn't rev past 2200 rpm (which was its rated speed), this tractor will rev right past that. Is it okay to work it at those speeds, or just drive around? Or should it be reving that high at all?

Jeremiah, generally speaking smaller engines are designed to run faster and make their peak HP at much higher RPMs than larger motors. There is no problem to run it fast where the job requires it such as PTO work.

Makes sense, just wasn't sure. I'm definitely a newbie with the FEL, I've caught on very quickly as far as controlling the bucket/foot-throttle, but now I've got to get better at anticipating how much it'll actually do while driving around. I've gotten stuck twice today and my neighbor has had to bail me out (great family, they've got farm all around me, with all kinds of huge tractors). While laughing at me the second time (using his big backhoe to simply pick the tractor up and set to the side) he suggested I look for some wheel weights or do a barrel and concrete.
 
I would get another tach to check it against, like one that uses a magnet or a strobe. It could just be that the tach is off.
 
Can someone explain the draft control on this tractor. The 3000 was more or less an "on/off" lever, this one is side by side with the 3pt hitch
 
For draft control mode leave the position control handle all of the way down and only use the draft control lever to control things. When you do that it acts the same as the large handle on your 3000 when the small lever was in draft control position. For position control, leave the draft control handle all of the way down and only use the postion control handle to control things. If both handles are anywhere above the full down position then you're getting a mixture of draft and position control, which I've never figured out, nor had a need to.
 
(quoted from post at 05:17:32 05/05/20) For draft control mode leave the position control handle all of the way down and only use the draft control lever to control things. When you do that it acts the same as the large handle on your 3000 when the small lever was in draft control position. For position control, leave the draft control handle all of the way down and only use the postion control handle to control things. If both handles are anywhere above the full down position then you're getting a mixture of draft and position control, which I've never figured out, nor had a need to.

Okay, now that makes sense! Thanks for that explanation, I too couldn't figure out the two needing to be all the way up, so I was overthinking the whole thing. Busted a hydrolic hose on the FEL today using it for a project at my work! I've got a mutual agreement though when I use personal tools and equipment they foot the bill for repairs, they treat us well!
 

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