The 3 pt hitch raises when the tractor is started. The control level is in down position and hard to raise without binding. I have to let the tractor sit for about 4-6 weeks before the Gannon/Box Blade will finally lower all the way down. The bucket works better after changing the hydraulic fluid but still has issues with jerking when lower and lifting. Is this a Lift cover issue where there is some blockage inside the lift cover? Or could this also be a something broken inside the lift control arm? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
- Thread starter pacwolf
- Start date
I started to lift the cover and it stops about 4 inches up. the right side front looks like some tube is also there but when I hit about 5 inch up it seems to bind and not able to lift off. The back end goes up no problem and then the front right corner starts to lift very little and front left doesn't.
Any ideas from anyone on what I may have missed. I went by the directions from the service manual. I don't want to force it up until I know what is going on with this. I also have not found anything about this tube on the front right side if it needs to come out or suppose to stay.
Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
Lift top top up some but don't get it in a bind, then use a pair of thin plies and work that tube down out of the lift top, a o-ring holds it in place.
Once the tube is free you can tilt the lift top to remove it, the piston housing extends under the case preventing it from coming straight up and the tube sticking up in the lift top prevents the top from tilting enough to come up.
I tried a pair of pliers but didn't work but I did use a socket drive that fit into the top cover and gentle tap the tub down and that worked better and easier. As the Lift cover was free now and able to lift the cover out. The Safety Valve is what was on the case.
I have attached a photo of the Tube I freed from the lift cover. I have not seen any photos in other forums so hope this will also help others with tube issues.
[b:9017ac98c5]Question-1[/b:9017ac98c5]- I do have is that does the tube have to sit flush with he case or does it go back into the lift cover as you see in the photo when I put the lift cover back?
[b:9017ac98c5]Question-2[/b:9017ac98c5]-See photo Spring showing the control valve spring where the turnbuckle goes into. Does the spring look compressed too much? Does the turnbuckle just sit inside the control valve or is it pressed in?
Thank you for your past help.
I have attached a photo of the Tube I freed from the lift cover. I have not seen any photos in other forums so hope this will also help others with tube issues.
[b:9017ac98c5]Question-1[/b:9017ac98c5]- I do have is that does the tube have to sit flush with he case or does it go back into the lift cover as you see in the photo when I put the lift cover back?
[b:9017ac98c5]Question-2[/b:9017ac98c5]-See photo Spring showing the control valve spring where the turnbuckle goes into. Does the spring look compressed too much? Does the turnbuckle just sit inside the control valve or is it pressed in?
Thank you for your past help.
Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
I'd pull the tube out and install two new o-rings, it sets up like that and goes back up in the cover.
Get yourself a I&T manual in order to adjust the control valve properly, there's a procedure that tells what position the lift arms need to be in, where the control lever needs to be set and what depth the control valve needs to be at, make sure the control valve isn't stuck in the bore.
Thank you for the quick reply. I have an I&T manual on order. I have a lift cover gasket kit that has dozens of O Rings. Will these O rings also cover the control valve, unload valve and other parts inside the Lift cover?
I read that some say use sealant when replacing the lift cover gasket and some say don't. If sealant is used is there a particular sealant to use?
Will I need any special tool to remove the control Valve to replace the O Rings or to remove it if it is stuck?
I just did a lift cover / aux overhaul on my 3000.
No special tools required for basic overhaul. Just take photos before hand!! of each step.
The orings that come in the overhaul kit are not complete sometimes. Some orings needed are not thick enough in the kit depending which one you get. There are two metal "tubes" that go inbetween the lift cover and the tractor body through the gasket. If you do not take care when lifting the cover off these can become bent.
Make sure that you have Orings where appropriate on the aux cover and lift cover itself. When taking the piston out just shoot some air into it and it should pop right out. The overhaul kit comes with a leather ring, an oring, and a white plastic oring. I used the rubber and leather without the plastic one. After the overhaul my 3000 works great. Will likely need the pump rebuilt at some point but for 4050 hours it was doing awesome.
Right now it's in pieces in the garage
Engine overhaul.
Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
Control valve doesn't have any o-rings, it has a machine but sometimes they stick from non use or dirty fluid.
I like to use a thin coat of Ultra Gray RTV on the axle housing to hold the gasket in place to prevent it from slipping and getting torn while installing the lift top, top side of the gasket and lift top I leave dry so it grips the medal and doesn't try to spit out when tightening the bolts.
Been a number of years since I reworked the lift tops on mine so not sure what o-rings and seals come in the gasket set, going to assume the ones for the remote valve or it's block off plate come separate.
Just keeping all informed of the findings and progress I make on this.
Excerpts from the I&T FO-31 Shop Manual states to remove the Control Valve, I need to unbolt the 2 bolts from the rear plate and remove it then I can remove the spring and control valve. (This didn't work. The rear plate will not come off).
This conflicts with the Ford 1965-1975 Ford Tractor Service Manual Tractor Series 2000-5550. This manual states that the 3 bolts from the front cover plate needs to be removed. Then the 2 bolts on the rear cover plate. Then the plate has to come off the same time as the control valve and spring. (This worked better). I was not able to move the control valve and had to put a wedge between the case and rear plate slowly and the control valve did move a little but no more. I pushed the valve back in side the case. I used a small wood piece and placed it on the front side of the control valve where the 3 bolts where and hand tapped it.
The control valve pushed itself out the rear side where I could now remove it all together the rear plate valve and spring together. Photos I have provided.
It looks like there is some burnt fluid that may have caused it to stick. see control valve, plate and spring photo after removal. What is the best way to clean any of this off the valve?
Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
Looks like you may have found the problem with that stuck control valve.
Just polish the spool with a scotch write pad to clean the gunk off but not remove any metal, make sure it works freely in and out of the bore.
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