860 is a real grumpy starter...grrr!

Guys, My 860 ran great all last year, but started misfiring about a month ago, and now sometimes it just won't start.
I have cleaned, rebuilt and adjusted the carb, cleaned the air filter thoroughly, checked gas flow from the tank.
I put in new Autolite 437 plugs, checked the points for spacing, made sure all wiring connections are tight, charged the
battery, gas is clean, and the compression is good.
But sometimes it just will not fire on startup.
Could it be condenser, coil, or what.....can't think of anything else.
Seams like it could be a weak spark issue, but I just can't figure it out.
Your experience will help - it always does! What do you think is wrong?
 
It is unfortunate that points and condensors are not what they once were. A year or two ago I gave up and went over to the Dark Side. No problems since installing the Pertronix conversion.
 
(quoted from post at 18:45:39 04/01/20) I know about Pertronix coils, but what do you mean by conversion? Is it a whole set up or what? Eager to learn!

He's talking about electronic ignition conversion. However, I've never done one (all but one of mine are diesels anyhow) So someone else will have to talk to you about it.
 
Check the ballast resistor and then the coil. Coils don't usually go bad but will fail when they get hot. I've had points last for many years without fail but a tiny speck of anything can keep make them weak.
If the carb is right and the points are spotless I vote ballast resistor.
 
The Pertronix conversion is a solid-state replacement for the original breaker point ignition. It doesn't require a Pertronix coil. It's simple and 100 percent reversible. You can buy the kit on this site or a number of other on-line sources.

If you decide to go this route, here are a few tips based on the experiences of various folks here who've made the switch.

1. Make sure you get the right kit for your tractor. You probably need one of the following: <a href="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-800_Electronic-Ignition-Conversion-Kit-6V-Positive-Ground_1244AP6.html">Six volt positive ground</a> and <a href="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-800_Electronic-Ignition-Conversion-Kit-12V-Negative-Ground_1244A.html">twelve volt negative ground</a>. There are also six volt negative ground and twelve volt positive ground versions, but I have no idea why they exist. Pertronix also sells an improved version called the "Ignitor II", but it sounds like overkill for a low speed tractor engine.

2. If you have solid-core "copper" spark plug wires, make sure you replace them with resistance wires. Using solid-core wires will lead to the early death of your Pertronix; apparently the resistance wires suppress high-voltage spikes that can kill the solid-state switch in the Pertronix.

3. You may need to modify the distributor dust cap so it doesn't contact the magnet sleeve that goes over the distributor cam. Just enlarge the hole in the center of the cap a bit if necessary.
 
David, my experience the last few years makes me suspicious of your plugs &amp; points. My 3000 was a TERERIBLY hard starter until I replaced the new 437s w/NGKs. I had installed electronic ignition, had the carb professionally redone, new plug wires, etc, etc, etc, none of which helped. Prior to the 3000 I had an 881 that would not run until I replaced the new points w/Blue Streak. My point being just because something is new does not mean it is working correctly!
 

Is it 6V or 12V? You don't say. Is the wiring firing order incorrect? Got spark? Doubtful it is a plug or condenser issue. You don't have an OEM ballast resistor. The OEM Champion 14 mm H10 spec or the newer, hotter H12 plug and the AUTO-LITE 437 plugs work well with either. Fuel Flow is checked at the carb. Charging a battery does not mean the battery is good. They can be bad out the door. Test it and use a Float Charger when not in use. "Would it, could it, should it" - don't guess! True root cause problem solving methods need to be used. Do you have the essential manuals? Did you a tune-up? How did you check 'spacing' and what were your results? Breaker point gap is .024" - .026". Spark Plug gap is .025"-.028". Lube and test cap. Check for slop. Then, did you perform a timing procedure? You need a timing light and the manual. Next, wiring. 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. A 6 volt battery does not mean your system is set up for the OEM 6V/POS GRN system. Likewise, a 12V battery does not mean you are wired correctly for a 12V system. EI is fine but diagnose and fix the problems first before you go buying and installing more new parts. When everything is wired right with the world, it will run, guaranteed. If it ain't running now, what makes think changing to 12V or even EI will fix it? Once you say what system you are running, we can post the correct wiring diagram.


FORD OEM 600/800 OWNER-OPERATOR?S MANUAL:
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FORD 600/800 TRACTOR IGNITION TIMING & ELECTRICAL WIRING:
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Tim Daley(MI)
CLYMER/I&T FO 20 MANUAL
 
Thank you Tim! This is really good to know. I do have the big manual, so will check the wiring and all connections, and timing as I have never done this in 20 years!
 

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