Hydraulic Down AND Up for 3pt Pros Cons

EmeradKondo

New User
The main reason for me to upgrade to a larger tractor (Ford 3000) from my Kubota BX is the power and weight to maintain 1/2 mile long gravel road (plus more for neighbors). For the past 3 years I have been doing so with a 4' box blade and 7' iron H-beam - both mounted on 3pt quickhitches. Living in the Pacific Northwest, we often get rain, which makes the gravel heavier and the footing slippery. So I'm building a 3000 with a quick release FEL and would like to ask for guidance on how to build the 3pt. I currently have power up and adjustments for tilt and either side (to put a crown in the road). I've found that with a single lane road a crown naturally occurs as we drive on the loose gravel and compact the tire lanes. I'm thinking of installing a double-acting cylinder to provide power up AND DOWN - to keep the box blade digging through really compacted areas, plus have the ability to micro adjust leveling. I also have a 6ft grader blade that I plan to modify for adjusting either side up or down (plus tilt and front to back angle). If I go with power up and down, I lose the ability to change the side to side adjustment and the tilt. I don't like losing the tilt because I use that to let the scarifiers dig in for initial passes, and then use the rear blade for semi-final smoothing. Without spending double money for hydraulic controls for both sides, can anyone, who is a better engineer than I, advise if there is away to have power up and down PLUS front to back tilt? I will give up the side to side adjustment because of the mods being done to the blade.

I hope I've made this clear, but if not, please let me know so I can clarify.

Thank you!
Rich
Maple Valley, WA
 
Hi Rich

Don't do my own road we have an earthmover come in with a grader for that and realistically if you seriously want a 3pl blade on a 3000 to do that you will have hydraulic rams, hoses and valves going everywhere. A couple of suggestions anytime I want a crown on the road angle the blade so the leading edge is on the outside of the road and adjust your top link length so that the leading edge bites and move material to the centre. If you need to get a new top link if your old one is difficult to adjust they are cheap. With earthmoving don't be in a hurry move small amounts of material slowly. A really good grader operator drives slowly otherwise the machine will bounce and actually put corrugations in the road. Your idea of ripping is a good one. Rip lightly then form it up slowly and pack it if the material you have will do that. Another suggestion if you want the blade to follow the road surface is a depth wheel on the back of your blade. Just some ideas take your time and with things working and a bit of adjustment it will surprise you what you can do.
 
Thank you, Matt. Switching to hydraulics is to combat the bouncing you mention - and hopefully allow me to get this job done quicker. Your comment about going slow is spot on!

Rich
Maple Valley, WA
 

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