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NAA rocker oil lines

O

Olliejunkie

Well-known Member
I have asked other questions about this tractor in tractor talk but the info I need now is more tractor specific.
It had a stuck valve. While working on it I discovered the rear oil line goes up and down when I crank it. I assume it is resting on a lifter? The front oil line was laying on the head and is a very loose fit. Any suggestions on how to fix them would be appreciated. I'm fixing it for a friend so I dont really want to buy a book.
 

My 4 cyl Fords have just one oil line to the rocker arms. I am pretty sure that it is towards the rear. They have a grommet that seals the tube to the hole. With time the grommet gets STUCK to the head, and you have to pull VERY HARD to get it out. Often the grommet stays in the hole. Since it is sitting on the lifter it must be in too deep. I would try a short piece of tubing like fuel line to reseal it. The front one is probably just a wish since whoever did it knew that the way he was leaving it wasn't right.
 
Am wandering if the oil line is loose in the hole, missing the little seal(EAA 6594A), and thus when the rotating cam , having a hole in it to spurt a little oil up that tune(line) it makes the tub jump. The hole for the tube in the head should be between No2 and No3 cylinder. The short tub is probably the one off of the front mounting bracket, situated like the long tub is into back support.
 
(quoted from post at 09:33:40 03/10/20) Am wandering if the oil line is loose in the hole, missing the little seal(EAA 6594A), and thus when the rotating cam , having a hole in it to spurt a little oil up that tune(line) it makes the tub jump. The hole for the tube in the head should be between No2 and No3 cylinder. The short tub is probably the one off of the front mounting bracket, situated like the long tub is into back support.
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es, agree as to oil squirt making it jump, the line is between lifters, not able to contact one.
 
The long tube #36 needs the grommet #37 and it needs to be pushed down into the block to seal. The short tube #44 just dumps the excess oil on top of the cylinder head. If the grommet is missing or not pushed down in the block far enough to seal it will bounce from the oil pressure. The tube does not contact a lifter. It is in line with the rotating bore of the block that supports the camshaft. The camshaft has a hole drilled there and as it rotates it supplies oil from the block oil galley through the tube and to the rocker arm assembly.

Mark
Rocker arm oil tubes
 
(quoted from post at 10:59:54 03/10/20) The long tube #36 needs the grommet #37 and it needs to be pushed down into the block to seal. The short tube #44 just dumps the excess oil on top of the cylinder head. If the grommet is missing or not pushed down in the block far enough to seal it will bounce from the oil pressure. The tube does not contact a lifter. It is in line with the rotating bore of the block that supports the camshaft. The camshaft has a hole drilled there and as it rotates it supplies oil from the block oil galley through the tube and to the rocker arm assembly.

Mark
Rocker arm oil tubes
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ink problem.
 
Thank you everyone for the replies. I did not think about the oil pressure moving it. I kind of had it running before I took the rocker cover off. It looked to have gotten oil up there. Now that the valve is unstuck I think I will see how it runs before I look into replacing seals.
I tried taking the side cover off before but it looks like i will need to remove the distributor to do that?
 
Thank you. It looks like its supposed to have a hood down bracket. It also doesn't look like it goes in the seal very deep. I will have to get a closer look. This tractor is 10 miles from home and I'm getting real tired of it. I made a deal to fix it in trade for his 8n. I'm really starting to regret it. I guess I have kinda lost my passion. I hope its temporary.
 
It is getting oil to the rocker and I can hold the line down with my finger.
Looks like it couldn't move very far if the valve cover was on.
The valve is moving but still not seating so I worked it and oiled it more.
 
It is getting oil to the rocker and I can hold the line down with my finger.
Looks like it couldn't move very far if the valve cover was on.
The valve is moving but still not seating so I worked it and oiled it more.
 
You need to make sure it has the rubber seal on the bottom of the long tube and it needs to be pushed down so that it seals in the block. The valve cover will not hold the tube down to have it seal in the block. If it has the old seal on it, that could have hardened so it won't push down into the block. Had a 640 that the PO had done a valve job and couldn't stop the valve train noise. Only problem was that the tube never got pushed down far enough to seat the seal.

Mark
 
epT4J6O.jpg

viwrSm2.jpg
 
Thank you. I will be checking that out after I get the valve unstuck. Its is getting lots of oil up top just from cranking it over but I want to make sure it's right. I need to drive it up on blocks or something. I'm not use to bending over to work on tractors.
 
I finaly pulled the side cover off. Does the rubber seal just stretch over the line and pushed into to block? I see there is a hold down on top of the rocker. The diagram also shows a bracket but I'm not sure where it goes. Number 35 I think. Also is there supposed to be something to hood the front line? This one just falls out. Anyone have a suggestion as where to get a new seal? Thank you. Still haven't got it to run right but that's a different thread and I thought I would work on this while I wait for parts.
mvphoto51124.jpg
 
Doesn't look exactly like what I expected, but until a better response shows up, I'll say under the rocker arm shaft support bolt.
I expected the end away from bolt to be a slot for the line to fit into , with bracket straddling line just above the expanded ridge on line.
 
JMOR there is another hold down on the bolt like you mentioned. I have that one. I wonder if this one goes under the side cover. I posted a pic earlier. I'm going to look when I go over. They want $41 for that bracket.
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:11 03/23/20) Doesn't look exactly like what I expected, but until a better response shows up, I'll say under the rocker arm shaft support bolt.
I expected the end away from bolt to be a slot for the line to fit into , with bracket straddling line just above the expanded ridge on line.
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It has been awhile but I know that the hold down on the 172 that I rebuilt a few years ago looked very different.
 
(quoted from post at 20:16:53 03/23/20) JMOR there is another hold down on the bolt like you mentioned. I have that one. I wonder if this one goes under the side cover. I posted a pic earlier. I'm going to look when I go over. They want $41 for that bracket.
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o piece of bent tin for $41 for me!
 
I have never had one apart. I have tried to find pics but not finding much. I will keep looking. I'm waiting for the seal anyway.
 
(quoted from post at 00:01:34 03/24/20) I have never had one apart. I have tried to find pics but not finding much. I will keep looking. I'm waiting for the seal anyway.
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et all know what you find.
 
(quoted from post at 03:02:31 03/24/20)
(quoted from post at 00:01:34 03/24/20) I have never had one apart. I have tried to find pics but not finding much. I will keep looking. I'm waiting for the seal anyway.
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et all know what you find.
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I haven't found any pics with that clip. I haven't found many pics of anything. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.
 

My neighbor has a 172 gasser motor with a giant hole in the block if ya need any parts.

Let me Know Nash Ranch
 
Yes. The back line has that. They dont list one for the front. I dont know why because they all seem to fall out. I guess because theres no pressure on it. I'm talking about a different bracket that it lists but dont have and dont know where it goes. Picked the seal up today so I will try to put the line back on this weekend.
 
(quoted from post at 21:56:29 03/26/20) Yes. The back line has that. They dont list one for the front. I dont know why because they all seem to fall out. I guess because theres no pressure on it. I'm talking about a different bracket that it lists but dont have and dont know where it goes. Picked the seal up today so I will try to put the line back on this weekend.
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ame part as I recall. I also think I remember that it was a Service Bulletin to add both at some point in early production.
 
That would make since. I guess I could see what it costs. I figured I would oval the front one a bit and tap it in. I still dont know what the other one is for. Looks like it could go on the 3rd rocker bolt. I'm not going to pay $40 dollars for it regardless.
 
(quoted from post at 01:52:19 03/27/20) I went back to the manual. It recommends two of each. $ 40 and $20 each.
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personally would use tin snips and make up something to bolt the lines in place, even if not just like Ford did it.
An old-timer named Zane once said that he just bent the line upward enough that when the valve cover was bolted in place that it pressed the line down where it couldn't come out.
 
(quoted from post at 14:37:33 03/27/20) I will if need be. The tank and sheet metal are still on and that may put a damper on things.
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there is no need to remove the tank if that is what you are getting at.
 
I haven't and dont plan on it but dont know if the rocker bolts will come out with out removing the whole assembly. I shall find out one of these days.
 
(quoted from post at 19:15:27 03/27/20) I haven't and dont plan on it but dont know if the rocker bolts will come out with out removing the whole assembly. I shall find out one of these days.
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I don't recall if the bolt will come out. Perhaps not. If not simply make your DIY hold down so that it is slotted and will slip under the bolt head like a wire terminal.
 
I have thought of doing that too. I saw a few pics with a wire around the rocker shaft. I dont know if I can do anything that cheezy beings it's not my tractor.
 
Yes, the supply line on my engine has two clips. Sorry for the blurry photo.

49715408413_6fa5f587f6_z.jpg



49716269322_592b49cc9f_z.jpg


I have no idea why someone cut and spliced the oil supply line but it seems to be just fine so I left it like that.

These are before I took it all apart . It's clean as a whistle now. If necessary, tonight I can take the valve cover off and get some super good photos.
 
Thank you! That first pic is the one I was looking for. That's how I thought it might go. Maybe I will make something doesnt look like it's worth $40.
 
Attached is a picture of the bracket/clip that is holding both the oil supply and return tubes to the rocker. They attach using the same bolts that fasten the rocker arm to the head. Pics are from a '54 Ford NAA.

How do you remove the oil supply tube? From these posts (and from the parts manual), I see there is a seal in the block that the tube goes into, and most people say it should lift right out. However, even with the force of a thousand suns, I cannot seem to get the tube to pull out. It doesn't even budge vertically at all. However, it spins freely around. What could possibly be capturing it in place?

I can't see the seal in the hole, but what I do see/feel seems like maybe the swaged end of the tube (like on the other end that fits to the rocker). Could the seal be beneath that swage? Why the heck am I unable to lift it out? As a result of this stuck tube, I'm unable to remove the head.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
mvphoto51642.jpg


mvphoto51643.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 15:14:11 03/31/20) Attached is a picture of the bracket/clip that is holding both the oil supply and return tubes to the rocker. They attach using the same bolts that fasten the rocker arm to the head. Pics are from a '54 Ford NAA.

How do you remove the oil supply tube? From these posts (and from the parts manual), I see there is a seal in the block that the tube goes into, and most people say it should lift right out. However, even with the force of a thousand suns, I cannot seem to get the tube to pull out. It doesn't even budge vertically at all. However, it spins freely around. What could possibly be capturing it in place?

I can't see the seal in the hole, but what I do see/feel seems like maybe the swaged end of the tube (like on the other end that fits to the rocker). Could the seal be beneath that swage? Why the heck am I unable to lift it out? As a result of this stuck tube, I'm unable to remove the head.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
mvphoto51642.jpg


mvphoto51643.jpg
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ook at some of the pictures earlier in this thread and you can see the rubber grommet on end of tube. They harden from time & heat. Gently heat tube at that end and rubber will likely soften enough to pull tube out.
 
Well I made some brackets. They aren't pretty but should work. I also beveled the dust cover and top of the distributor so the dust cover goes in better but that was another thread.
I read other guys say to grab it with vice grips while giggling and prying out but I like Jmor's idea of heat. Maybe some solvent down the hole for a few days might help too.
mvphoto51647.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 13:18:42 03/31/20) Well I made some brackets. They aren't pretty but should work. I also beveled the dust cover and top of the distributor so the dust cover goes in better but that was another thread.
I read other guys say to grab it with vice grips while giggling and prying out but I like Jmor's idea of heat. Maybe some solvent down the hole for a few days might help too.
mvphoto51647.jpg
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Olliejunkie, How much are you charging? I need 200 because of the pandemic.
 
(quoted from post at 22:36:30 03/31/20) I would have to find a better way to make them first and these haven't been proven yet.
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ooks like all will prove out to me!
 
(quoted from post at 22:36:30 03/31/20) I would have to find a better way to make them first and these haven't been proven yet.
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Yup, definitely needs a 6 month clinical trial at the least. After that team up with GM at one of their closed plants to make them.
 
Mainly I need to check fitment and bend the longer one when it's in place. I'm thinking of putting some shrink tube on it so it wont be metal on metal. Last couple days have been kind of nasty and today I'm not very motivated. Maybe tonight or tomorrow.
 
(quoted from post at 14:31:12 03/31/20)
Thanks JMOR! Good idea with the heat. I'll give that a shot.
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Quick follow-up; finally got the chance to try heat on the line and in very short order it heated up the oil line seal and the tube pulled out of the block no problem! Thanks so much for the tip!!
 
Finally got my oil line back on. Fit much tighter with the new seal. My bracket didnt come out like the original but I think it will work ok.
Found a small cup on top of the head. You can see it in the pic. I assume it goes on top of the valve stem as that valve was stuck and is way out of adjustment? Time to look at pics. To bad I didnt see it before I put the rocker assembly on.
mvphoto52657.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 11:40:23 04/13/20) Finally got my oil line back on. Fit much tighter with the new seal. My bracket didnt come out like the original but I think it will work ok.
Found a small cup on top of the head. You can see it in the pic. I assume it goes on top of the valve stem as that valve was stuck and is way out of adjustment? Time to look at pics. To bad I didnt see it before I put the rocker assembly on.
mvphoto52657.jpg
Click to expand...


That cup is a rotator. You are supposed to have them on the ends of the exhaust valves.
 
Thank you Showcrop. That's what I suspected. I need to take a stubby screwdriver back with me so I can loosen the rocker.
 
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