Ford 800 questions

Lambosj

New User
Hello, I'm a new member to the Forum and have a ruff knowledge of tractors but I'm learning. Before my dad died he had a Ford 800 which I got from my mom this past year (2019) and love the thing. It came with a back blade and snowblower that I've used this winter. I live in norther N.Y. It runs like a champ but I'm wanting to slowly restore it. However first off I'm not sure what 800 it is. I've researched it and found the serial number on the flat part above and behind the starter but can't make out what the number is. I can see the diamond and then 77 after it and what looks like a 1 or 7 and a rounded number after that (not much help I know) before the diamond, but that's all. My dad know what it was and I used it a lot over the years but never thought to ask him. It has the 5 speed transmission, 3 point hitch, and PTO. Not sure if its live or not, only way to use it is to start it with the PTO engaged. The Clutch is all but shot so I'm not sure if that's why or something else.

So first questions is any help identifying it would be great

Second, in my restore I'm wanting to add an alternator. It was converted to 12 volt before my dad got it to take advantage of a 12 v battery but nothing else was done. I found a kit on Amazon and wondered it anyone here can give me some tips on this.


3rd I want to put a new clutch in this summer but don't know which clutch I need.

Thanks in advance. Stephen.


cvphoto6081.jpg
 
800 is the series, carefully clean where that number is on the flat spot, it might still show up if not corroded away. 850 or 860, it is likely to be one of those 2 models. It has a 5 speed lever I can see in the photo. With the clutch in the condition described, it may be difficult to determine if it has a 2 stage clutch (860) or just live pto (850). Interesting the blower works satisfactory on it as these don't really have the ideal gearing for it, but of the 2 transmissions, the 5 speed would be the one that would work best.

If he did a 12 V conversion, then it has or had an alternator, my 850 was converted, I used a common GM - Delco alternator, forget what type,(how many wires) but they were like $50 and common at any parts store. Have to watch the vents on these, chaff gets in them and blocks air flow, that is what did one of mine in, happens when mowing dry weeds in late season.
 

From what I can see magnifying your pic, looks like a 12 volt diesel generator or similar. Does your clutch pedal have one hole or two where the rod goes into the bellhousing?
 
If when you start it with the PTO in gear you can shift the transmission using the clutch I would say you have a 2 stage clutch and the second stage for the PTO is not working. If that is the case you have an 860.

Mark
 
Try removeing all paint over and down in #s. No wire wheel,use paint stripper,lacquer thinner to soffen and brass brush to clean. If numbers are still unclear,apply white paint and wipe away leaving paint in #s. When finished,apply paint to prevent rust and fartar damage.
 
Check the simplest thing first.
If the 2-stage clutch rod is in the longer hole, you won't be able to push the pedal down far enough to disengage the PTO.
Put it in the shorter hole.
 
Thank-you all for the reply's. I'm going to try and clean up the flat part how you suggested and see what I can make out then...
 
I've used the blower to move 2 and 3 ft snow blanks a time or two and you have to let it catch up quite a lot as it will build up. However in lighter snow (a ft or less) I just run the rpm's up higher and it does pretty good. It's not an ideal set up as you mentioned the gearing wasn't intended for it but I can move anything I need to will it. Mostly it will start to spin if its to much and I just push the clutch and wait a moment.

That's the funny thing it still has the generator on it but the wire is disconnected and no alternator on it. It has become a problem to use it for very long as it will run the battery dead fairly quickly.
 
Yes I can shift gears fine with the PTO engaged. Not sure if it makes a difference but I can disengage the PTO at anytime when its running...
 
(quoted from post at 19:50:32 02/23/20) I've used the blower to move 2 and 3 ft snow blanks a time or two and you have to let it catch up quite a lot as it will build up. However in lighter snow (a ft or less) I just run the rpm's up higher and it does pretty good. It's not an ideal set up as you mentioned the gearing wasn't intended for it but I can move anything I need to will it. Mostly it will start to spin if its to much and I just push the clutch and wait a moment.

That's the funny thing it still has the generator on it but the wire is disconnected and no alternator on it. It has become a problem to use it for very long as it will run the battery dead fairly quickly.

If you can spin the tires with the engine and clutch released, I doubt you need a new clutch.

If you have an 860, as others have noted there will be a clevis with a pin on the horizontal clutch pivot rod down near the left foot board. Kneel down near the clutch, and push the pedal up and down a bit and you can see the arrangement. The clevis will have 2 holes if it's an 860. If only one hole it's an 850(non-live PTO). Two stage clutch pedal travel. The first engagement is the clutch for motion, and the bottom engagement is the clutch for the PTO drive.

I just bought an 860, and just fixed my clutch travel recently. The 800 series is pretty sweet around the home and yard. It looks like an early unit, as it doesn't have power steering. The PS was optional on all 800 series, and can be added if you want. I bought mine because it has PS, and live PTO. Nice rig.
 

If you can push the clutch in to stop the tractor while waiting for the blower to catch up the tractor is a 860 model with two stage clutch, either the clutch is not set or adjusted properly or the pto clutch is stuck.
On a 850 model when you push the clutch in the stop the tractor the pto will also stop.
For the charging system you can purchase a alternator conversion kit with brackets from this site, click on Tractor Parts, select Ford and then you model.
 
Start off with the Essential Manuals -The FORD 600/800 Owner's Manual and the Clymer/I&T FO-20 manual...

FORD HUNDRED SERIES TRACTOR SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION:
ccZd8iyh.jpg

FORD OEM 600/800 OWNER-OPERATOR?S MANUAL:
2Qc1hizh.jpg

Tim Daley(MI)
CLYMER/I&T FO 20 MANUAL
 
(quoted from post at 19:50:32 02/23/20) I've used the blower to move 2 and 3 ft snow blanks a time or two and you have to let it catch up quite a lot as it will build up. However in lighter snow (a ft or less) I just run the rpm's up higher and it does pretty good. It's not an ideal set up as you mentioned the gearing wasn't intended for it but I can move anything I need to will it. Mostly it will start to spin if its to much and I just push the clutch and wait a moment.

That's the funny thing it still has the generator on it but the wire is disconnected and no alternator on it. It has become a problem to use it for very long as it will run the battery dead fairly quickly.

Reverse on an 860 is definitely on the fast side for a snowblower. Look around for a pull type AKA inverted snowblower so you can drive forward instead, 1st gear on an 860 is just right for running a snowblower in normal conditions.
 
So I was able to get the serial number by removing the paint that was there with a scraper which is 100377. Will have to do some more cleaning for the model number. I also checked the clutch pedal but I'm not seeing a place to adjust any linkages. Picture attached...
cvphoto6408.jpg
 
Ultimately I would like to put a snowplow on the Front with a carry all on the back and only use a snowblower on the rare occasion. The inverted snowblowers are really nice though and would work great with 1st gear as you mentioned...
 
Your tractor is the same age as me.
Look at the clevis at the small arm that goes into the bell housing. I can see in your picture that the pin is in the forward hole and you have the two stage clutch.
My guess is you are not pushing down far enough to disengage the PTO clutch. My 860 PTO clutch won't clear until the pedal is way down. Try it.
 
(quoted from post at 09:01:35 02/26/20) Your tractor is the same age as me.
Look at the clevis at the small arm that goes into the bell housing. I can see in your picture that the pin is in the forward hole and you have the two stage clutch.
My guess is you are not pushing down far enough to disengage the PTO clutch. My 860 PTO clutch won't clear until the pedal is way down. Try it.

As Ron says, move the pin to the other hole. And you have to push the pedal way down for the PTO clutch.
 
Sorry to keep beating this horse. Here's a picture of the clutch linkage if you want your PTO clutch to operate.

mvphoto49906.jpg
 
I see it now. Couldn't figure out what to change on the linkage when I looked at mine. Thank you. I changed it on mine tonight and sure enough I can now stop the PTO and turn it on without turning off the tractor. Makes a huge difference...
 
Changed it and It's only the last 2 inches or so that stop the PTO. Very happy to have that figured out.
 
Main reason I think it needs a new clutch is when you push the clutch in the tractor will keep moving.

I'm super impressed with what it can do. I use it to move snow and some clean up work. Have plains to put a carry all on it in the future. I do wish it had power steering. wouldn't mind to add it down the road for sure...
 
800 is the series, carefully clean where that number is on the flat spot, it might still show up if not corroded away. 850 or 860, it is likely to be one of those 2 models. It has a 5 speed lever I can see in the photo. With the clutch in the condition described, it may be difficult to determine if it has a 2 stage clutch (860) or just live pto (850). Interesting the blower works satisfactory on it as these don't really have the ideal gearing for it, but of the 2 transmissions, the 5 speed would be the one that would work best.
 
Cleaned up the flat part and it is indeed an 860. Also bought an alternator kit and have it part way installed. I'm going ahead and redoing all the wiring on it while I"m at it and adding a couple relays so there is no longer power to the lights when the key it off. Not sure if that was factory or not. Got the chance to use the blower this past weekend and not having to it turn off and restart the tractor to engage the PTO was awesome.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help...
 

Most all Ford tractors have the lights independent of the key switch, even my 89 model is that way and I like it. When I park in the shed at night I shut the tractor off then climb off with the lights on so I can see, once on the ground and ready to head out of the building I then turn off the lights, less chance of getting a foot hang in a pedal, missing a step or stumbling into another piece of equipment you parked beside.
 

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